94 Ranger L33 TH350 2wd
#21
None really. It's just about a 1/4 clearance from the sump to the I-beam. I would have liked to have more than that but so far after 500 miles of driving I've had no issue. I have pushed the beam all the way up and it clears. Just worried about suspension wear down the road. But if it gets that bad I probably couldn't drive it anyway. LOL
#23
Solid axle truck should have about 2-3" between sump and cross member. Steering column shaft and exhaust issue with most manifolds, headers(no issues), heater box issue without body lift.
#24
Do you know of headers that would fit or be close, I'm looking at the ls3 manifolds also, trying to figure out what I need before I set the motor in so it goes kinda smooth. Not doing a body lift. And I figured as much on the airbox
#25
Sanderson makes some shorties that resemble the 5.0 swap headers. Just remember the GEN III/IV engine is about the same size as the 351 Windsor. So they may or may not work without mods to clear the steering shaft(intermediate shaft). To make your life a whole lot easier I'd get rid of the double rag joint shaft and put in a u joint shaft for more clearance. That's my next upgrade.
#28
I figured I should put my build out there. So all you Ford purist can take a hike! LOL.
Engine:
L33 5.3
Ls3 exhaust manifolds cut and welded
Trans-Dapt S10 mounts modified
95 Silverado CAI
130,000 miles
Frame rolled 1 inch on each side
Trans:
Th350
Summit 2300 Stall
Atp Z270 Flexplate with space and bolts
Modified original crossmember
Rear diff:
Stock for now 7.5 w 3:55 gears
Suspension:
33x12.50x15 tires
2" daystar leveling kit on front
Engine:
L33 5.3
Ls3 exhaust manifolds cut and welded
Trans-Dapt S10 mounts modified
95 Silverado CAI
130,000 miles
Frame rolled 1 inch on each side
Trans:
Th350
Summit 2300 Stall
Atp Z270 Flexplate with space and bolts
Modified original crossmember
Rear diff:
Stock for now 7.5 w 3:55 gears
Suspension:
33x12.50x15 tires
2" daystar leveling kit on front
#29
Slots are facing the rear for the passenger side unmodified. drivers side I cut the tabs off and welded them dead center due to the engine crossmember being offset to the back on the driver side. I drilled new holes in crossmember and bolted them in.
#31
I used the ford pump. I made a small bracket that mounts to the GM bracket. part of my truck bracket was broken and the engine didn't come with a P/S pump or Alternator. I also used the Ford alternator.
#32
I've got a 97 and looking to turn it into a weekend play toy/drag truck
I think a cammed 5.3 with a 150 shot would be perfect
#33
#34
Those are nice looking mounts. How did you clear the TIB with the engine that far forward? Using a truck pan like I did the engine sits about 3 inches back farther than yours. OOPs I see it's an 07. Those would still work if the motor plate was welded farther back. The cross member is offset on a 93-98. So the driver side would look almost exactly like the one pictured and passenger side with the motor plate welded towards the rear.
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 05-04-2015 at 07:32 AM.
#35
Those are nice looking mounts. How did you clear the TIB with the engine that far forward? Using a truck pan like I did the engine sits about 3 inches back farther than yours. OOPs I see it's an 07. Those would still work if the motor plate was welded farther back. The cross member is offset on a 93-98. So the driver side would look almost exactly like the one pictured and passenger side with the motor plate welded towards the rear.
#38
nice thanks for the pictures, I have a welder and some decent fab skills but I really wish someone would make a bolt in kit. I plan to completely gut the truck except for a heater and just make a small dash for the necessary gauges.
So both of you used the truck truck pans and they fit fine so thats a plus, mine is a TIB like the 94. I will probably try and build some out side the frame rail headers.
What did you do for fuel pump and fuel lines?
So both of you used the truck truck pans and they fit fine so thats a plus, mine is a TIB like the 94. I will probably try and build some out side the frame rail headers.
What did you do for fuel pump and fuel lines?
#39
nice thanks for the pictures, I have a welder and some decent fab skills but I really wish someone would make a bolt in kit. I plan to completely gut the truck except for a heater and just make a small dash for the necessary gauges.
So both of you used the truck truck pans and they fit fine so thats a plus, mine is a TIB like the 94. I will probably try and build some out side the frame rail headers.
What did you do for fuel pump and fuel lines?
So both of you used the truck truck pans and they fit fine so thats a plus, mine is a TIB like the 94. I will probably try and build some out side the frame rail headers.
What did you do for fuel pump and fuel lines?
Last edited by lsxRanger94; 05-11-2015 at 07:33 AM.
#40
what oil pan did you use?also what exhaust manifolds did you use?i tried to install my ls1 this week and my truck pan hit my i beam and couldnt slide it forward hardly so when cab cam down it hit on fire wall. i think if i use a vette oil pan the measures 5.5 inches in depth ill be ok. i had some ls2 manifolds and they didnt work either. i thnk if i flip my truck manifoldi can maybe squeez the motoe in.