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I'm not a fan of cutting/soldering wires. Not much choice on lengthening though, if you want to keep the color coding. Why not buy a pin kit, shorten the wires and re-pin the ends?
I'm planning on adding some length to my injector harnesses, and I don't think that doing so will present any problems - but at the same time, I have a background in MIL-spec electronics. Off the top of my head, I don't recall any wires that can't/shouldn't be cut/lengthened, but it would be a good idea to get that confirmed by someone who knows better than I do... Good luck.
The factory truck harnesses are about 12' long when stretched out. There is a jaguar on here that mounted the PCM in the trunk because the truck was so long. Assuming you aren't plannng to add 20' of wire you shouldn't have an issue. And I've never heard of wires being too short except when dealing with clearance issues.
The van harnesses are about that long (I doubt the truck ones are, but don't know for sure) - i used one for a recent swap and shortened every wire at the ECM with a new pin.
The van harnesses are about that long (I doubt the truck ones are, but don't know for sure) - i used one for a recent swap and shortened every wire at the ECM with a new pin.
Once mine is up and running, I'm planning on shortening most all my wires. Do you have a list of the nomenclature and source of parts and tools needed for this?
Once mine is up and running, I'm planning on shortening most all my wires. Do you have a list of the nomenclature and source of parts and tools needed for this?
The ECM pins are specific to the ECM. I get mine from Mouser for around 100 pins for $25
E67 ecm:
#538-33467-0005
LS1 ECM:
#829-12084913 (100)
#829-12084912 (100) - I used the most of these.
For crimping, I started with this radio shack crimper. It worked, but I had to use some pliers to close the tabs on the E67 pins so they would fit in the crimper tool. It works fine for the LS1 pins (the tangs are more U shaped vs. V shaped). More work, but only cost $10 and I could get it local and start the harness work.
You could probably bevel the lead in on the crimp side and make the Radio Shack one work better for the E67.
I also picked up this crimper ($32 + shipping). It works better and has more sizes than the Radio Shack one, but costs almost 4x more by the time you include shipping: http://www.lsxtune.com/shop/product_...gnfde331o5me40
For my next swap, I am going to modify the Radio shack crimper to widen the lead ins. I like it better because it has a wider head. The 3 tangs on the bare wire portion of the pin are .148" wide and the blue crimper is only .148" wide. You have to have it placed perfectly or you have to do 2 crimps. The Radio Shack on is .197" wide, so its much easier to place it and do a single crimp.
Thanks much, that helps a lot. How about the fuse box and relay terminals part numbers and nomenclature?
My swap uses the stock 88 Fiero fuse box, so my harness does not have a dedicated fuse box just for the engine.
My engine harness terminates at the ECM, the Fiero 203 connector (gauges, AC control & fuses) and the 500 connector (Starter, Alternator, Ignition & Fan) just like the stock 88 Fiero 2.8L V6 harness did... except I moved the 500 from the location by the passenger strut tower to inside the center console area so there are fewer wires in the engine bay.
There is no problem with shortening or lengthing the copper harness wires as long as you solder them well and protect them from the elements with good quality heat shrink tubing. Done it so many times I loose count but I am on my 6th 100 foot long box of heat shrink tubing.
FYI here are a few pics showing Express Van harness length !
There is no problem with shortening or lengthing the copper harness wires as long as you solder them well and protect them from the elements with good quality heat shrink tubing. Done it so many times I loose count but I am on my 6th 100 foot long box of heat shrink tubing.
I've read some of your information regarding your wiring projects. I'm looking for a good source for 'quality' heat shrink tubing. Would you be kind enough to share your source and if possible the part # for the 100ft long box of heat shrink tubing that you use? PM me if necessary.
I solder all connections and use high temp butt-splice connectors, cover in black rtv sealant, then heat shrink. Regular heat shrink from an electronice store works fine.
Just be sure to match wire size if lengthening. http://www.mcmaster.com/#wire-splices/=ty4rae
If you use any tool other than a Production hand too to crimp on a terminal, the connection will need to crimped AND soldered per J-38125-620B. Below is a picture of the difference between the repair tool and a Production tool. A lot of people assume the repair tools achieve a solderless crimp because they generally say Delphi on them. They do not.
Lastly, you should NEVER solder O2 sensor wires. Doing so will impede the air reference. This is the only circuit you would want to crimp only.
Bill
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You can also get wire/connectors/terminals from eficonnection.com. Have to buy minimum of $25, and are a little higher than Mouser. But you can look up the connector by name, & they have a link to all parts for that connector to buy separately.
End to end doesnt count for length silly...you need to calculate it from the motor where they all come together to the ECU. The truck harness in stock form isnt that long, few feet maybe from the top of the manifold to the ECU. Now I havent torn one apart to see how i can better route everything but really...I wish it was longer so I could better route things without having to redo the whole harness.
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Shortening Wires 
