Hey,
Working on my swap and need to know if I can reuse the existing alternator on the 5.3? Currently running a 4.3/4L60E. Same question on the PS pump.

Also need a measurement on the driver's side notch in the trans cross member. Figure that I can do this ahead of time, along with cleaning and painting of the cross member.

I got a set of '98 F-body manifolds to do the exhaust. So is there an existing Y-pipe that can be modded to fit, or should I just fab one?

Just finished a new driveshaft swap & rear end service on the truck. Eliminated the extra U-joints and centering ball joints. Night & day difference going down the HWY. Still need to rebuild the front suspension & get it aligned.

Pics when I actually "do" something.

Jim



Reusing as much of the S-10 as possible. The goal here is a sleeper that gets 25+mpg and will surprise the ricer guys.



Jim

 

Finally picked up a 70,000 mile 1999 5.3 to start my swap. Truck is a 2003 ZQ8, extended cab. I'll be doing the actual swap over the winter on a long weekend (4-5 days).

Pulled the heads on the engine to verify what I have and that it is still serviceable. End play is great, cylinders are all fine. has the 862 heads.

So as I am working through my list of to do's, I cam across the issue of fuel delivery. My question to the group is this; Can I run the stock '99 Silverado fuel pump assembly in the S-10? We are not going the super high performance route. But are going for more torque and better mileage than the 4.3 we are replacing.

I already have to replace the fuel lines from the back of the engine as the knuckle dragger that pulled the engine hacked them off. So the replacement lines will get me back to the rear of the cab to splice into the existing set-up. My research says that the stock 4.3 pump runs too much pressure on the run side.

But if we run a Silverado fuel pump in the stock tank, and run the lines in the "stock" configuration. It should all be happy. OR am I all wrong on this?

Next item - can I run a stock set of oil cooler lines for a 4.3 on a 5.3 (SBC tech on a Jedi engine). All appears to be in the same physical location, would just make the hook-up that much easier.

Wiring/PCM - Going the simple route here. Having someone else making for me (still need a 99-02 5.3 harness & PCM). Since I have to make this live in a fairly short time frame, this would be the best way I think. Could use some thoughts (links?) on this part. Been searching S10 forum, LS1 Tech for other threads. What I found appears to be Plug & Play. Guy says all the gauges & tach will operate normally.

Cooling - running the stock HD S-10 radiator for now. Adding electric fans and pulling the manual fan. Running the stock replacement 5.3 pump.

Oil Pan - LH8

Exhaust - modded 98-99 F-Body manifolds, fab up the pipes. Found a great example on S-10forum.

Know about notching the frame on the pass side. Found good pic's on how much and were to cut. May have to nip the cross member (we'll see on that one).

I'll be running the stock 4L60E trans. Truck is having the rear end rebuilt on Thursday. I'll need to do the drive shaft yet with all new joints & carrier.

So as much as I think I have addressed "everything", what am I missing.

Jim
'03 S10
'69 GS California
'76 Vega

 

You dont need oil cooler lines. IMO

And as far as the ac notch...you will have to get as close to the idler arm mount as you can as that is where it is the closest. I actually had to grind on the side of the arm mount to get clearance.

My ac clutch is so close I cant get the belt on unless I jack up that side of the motor. LOL

 

Picking up my water pump and PS bracket w/pump today. Staying with the DBC accessories from the truck. Slowly getting there, F-body manifolds are on the way.

Working on my Vega to get it out of the shop soon. Getting it to roller status as I will never finish it. (set up with small block Buick & TH350, w/3.73 G80 axle).

 

Water pump - Brand new replacement
PS Bracket - included a new PS pump!
'98 F-body manifolds - nice clean parts.

Still looking for a stock truck a/c bracket, '99-'02 DBC wire harness and 0411 PCM. Good used.

Will be in the market for an LH8 oil pan, pick-up & windage tray. Also a oil cooler block off kit.

Now on my list is a TC support to install the 4L60E (4.3 model) onto the 5.3. Getting there!

Of course the spendy part is a reflash & harness service for the actual install.

 

Just got the 0411 PCM and 85mm MAF. Ordered a new a/c bracket and sourced a engine harness and a/c compressor. Still looking for a few things, then we will need the "spendy" stuff (PCM reflash, harness pin-out).

As for cooling, I have an aluminum radiator w/electric fans or a new '97 Corvette unit. I could also run the S-10 unit until summer.

Thoughts?

The aluminum rad was cooling a BBB (455 Stage 1) w/o any issues. That is the way I am leaning right now.

 

Got my LH8 oil pan yesterday. Was installing it last night and found a broken bolt. No biggie, I can easy out it prior to installing the engine into the S-10.

Then I went to install the dipstick tube. Appearently, the knuckle dragger who pulled out the engine broke off the dipstick tube! Yes it is flush with the block.

So, I am thinking that to get out the small portion of the tube I am going to need to pull off the pan and tap on the backside of the tube to be able to pull it out. Anyone else ever have this happen? Am I correct on the "fix"?

Also, anyone have pic's on modding a set of '98 Camaro exhaust manifolds? I need to figure out the exhaust Y-pipe routing and O2 sensor placement.

Jim

 

I am deployed so I can't get you any pics, but I modded a set of f-body manifolds by grinding the flange into a circle so a 2.5in pipe slide right on.

 

OK, I was able to pull the pan and tap out the "stub" of the original dipstick from the backside using a 1/2 extension and a few light hits. The broken bolt turned out to be an undrilled/tapped section on the filter side of the oil pan. No leaks were showing, so I guess this will not have an effect & should seal up fine.

I also mounted my '98/'99 F-body EGR to the truck intake. Fits fine. So, can anyone tell me what the other 2 fittings are on the F-body exhaust manifolds? I have no idea and no place with an open port that this would hook up to.

Jim

 

ditch the egr and block everything off.

 

Rookie question: How can I clean the aluminum mating surfaces on the heads? Always have done iron heads & block. The GM composite gaskets left material on the heads & block (Iron 5.3). The block I'll wet sand w/WD-40 and a flat bar. Same for the heads??????

 

Well, Veteran's day marks the beginning of my swap. At this point I have the engine pulled out and on the floor. The 5.3 is built and just awaiting the new injectors (28#) and of course the wiring harness.

But wait! There's more. I was able to get the engine out of the S-10 after about 3 hours of swearing at it (magic, I know). Washed down the engine compartment of many years of oil/grime/grease.

Last night moved onto the frame clean-up and roughed out the frame notch for the A/C. That area is ready to be cut and welded. No brake klean was used to remove gunk (Turns to a poisonous gas when welding due to remaining residue). Just have to mark it and "Do the deed".

Now the driver's side is a whole nother issue. Due to leaking oil cooler lines, we have us a good ol' MESS. Steering box is caked up, front of the engine (4.3), frame, x-cross member, linkage and all other related are in the same way. Plenty of scraping, and cleaning to be done there.

I will pull, drain and detail out the steering box (ZQ8) and have everything fresh and clean for install.

Once the engine compartment is ready (painted) I will move onto the "test fit" of the 5.3. Not going to be too difficult thanks to all the info on this site and S10forum. I believe I know of the pit falls and what to watch out for.

Jim

No real pics yet.

 

I am running the stock system and am looking for the connection from the compression fittings on the stock return style system (top of the trans area of the 4.3) to the feed & return lines on the 5.3 truck intake.

So does anyone have a part number/source to get these?

How about a good fuel regulator? Mine is full of gunk from sitting.

I don't have the 1999 Silverado this engine came out of, so I don't know if this even exists.

Jim

 

It doesn't sound like you're trying to make really big power,* so you should be able to use the fuel filter from a '98 Corvette, which also regulates the fuel to the necessary 58 psi. If memory serves, it's between $50 - $60 new.

Good luck with your build, & get some pics up when you can!

* (I've read once or twice that the 'Vette fuel filter/regulator isn't ideal for builds that are making over 500 hp - but I'm not able to confirm that personally.)

 

Yeah the 1998 vette filter regulator works great (WIX 37737) and the flexfuel s10 fuel pump will take your north of 500hp easily.

 

Well after 2 years on the engine stand I was finally able to drop the engine in for a test fit! Wish my Buick went this easy. Have the core support off & front bumper too.

Cut the a/c notch tonight (reason for the test fit) and it didn't look deep enough. I may go down a full 3" Near the bottom of the frame leg. would leave about 1/2 inch of the original dimension. Plate is made from structural 2x3 tube, cut into a L shape. Will fine tune it as needed. Don't have my a/c compressor yet, so that will be ordered next.

I also dropped the hood on to be sure that I had clearance, There is a good inch above the truck intake!

Also going to order the wiring harness in the am. It appears that this could be ready to bolt down very soon. Still have more cleaning and painting to get done before that happens.

Still have too pull the trans off the 4.3 and fluff it up. Kinda greasy as there was a pinched valve cover gasket leaking.

As far as power, keeping it to 300-320, most likely around 275 at the wheels.

I usually get a couple hours in the shop in the evenings, so progress isn't super fast. Really happy that this is going smoothly so far.

 

Injectors just came in. Need to pull the old ones and get the fuel rails cleaned up tonight. (really bad gas in the rails)

 

So I got the rails apart and found rust and crap in the metal lines. No luck on pulling out the old injectors. So, does anyone have a set of clean rails for a GEN III 4.8/5.3? Don't need injectors, just the plastic rails and metal crossover tube.

Soaking the injectors with WD-40 to get the old ones out. Not sure if that is going to work. So looking for a set of rails.

Jim

 

Shot of the engine and the project truck.

 

These trucks are a lot of fun swapped. PM sent.