1968 Impala Turbo LY6/4L80e Swap - 798 RWHP @ 17 PSI
#41
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Trying to stay motivated on this one. Between parts not fitting and the skyrocketing parts total, this is testing my patience. No turning back though.
I ordered my Rick's tank and it should be done mid June. I have used a Rick's tank before but I have to say dealing with Hector is a pleasure. He took the time to answer all my questions and never got frustrated with me even though I called at least 5 different times. The ZL1 pump modules will be controlled by PWM setup from Vaporworx. The second pump will be activated with a Hobbs switch. Nothing but positive feedback for Carl at Vaporworx also. The guy easy to deal with and the kit is very complete and detailed.
Here is a sketch of the planned fuel system. I know I could have gone cheaper but the goal was OEM reliability and a system capable of supporting 700+ RWHP on E85.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vWp7VI442u4/VWHod_EHJJI/AAAAAAAAAQs/eaietQXEuqw/w482-h857-no/IMG_20150524_043318463.jpg)
I mocked up some motor mount frame plates out of Coroplast from one of my customers. This stuff is easy to cut and remains pretty rigid. To get some space up front I moved the motor back. There is an interference problem with the brake booster and the valve cover. So the booster came out and hydroboost will go in. It will be easy since the pump on the motor is already set up for it. I even have all the lines from the van with fittings.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-85LNLQNI3LE/VWHoeJ9yGxI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/LTBxza9fn1g/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150524_070859407.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W8Mn79h9bD8/VWHoeJZpS-I/AAAAAAAAAQw/9oXFhtld1_I/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150524_070917531.jpg)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cPOadzR9Y2g/VWHofmSfZXI/AAAAAAAAARA/R8B0nNEBaHQ/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150524_070925155.jpg)
The 4L80e fit is tight but will only need extra clearance by the rear speed sensor. The Kugel shift linkage looks like it will work without any modification.
I ordered my Rick's tank and it should be done mid June. I have used a Rick's tank before but I have to say dealing with Hector is a pleasure. He took the time to answer all my questions and never got frustrated with me even though I called at least 5 different times. The ZL1 pump modules will be controlled by PWM setup from Vaporworx. The second pump will be activated with a Hobbs switch. Nothing but positive feedback for Carl at Vaporworx also. The guy easy to deal with and the kit is very complete and detailed.
Here is a sketch of the planned fuel system. I know I could have gone cheaper but the goal was OEM reliability and a system capable of supporting 700+ RWHP on E85.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vWp7VI442u4/VWHod_EHJJI/AAAAAAAAAQs/eaietQXEuqw/w482-h857-no/IMG_20150524_043318463.jpg)
I mocked up some motor mount frame plates out of Coroplast from one of my customers. This stuff is easy to cut and remains pretty rigid. To get some space up front I moved the motor back. There is an interference problem with the brake booster and the valve cover. So the booster came out and hydroboost will go in. It will be easy since the pump on the motor is already set up for it. I even have all the lines from the van with fittings.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-85LNLQNI3LE/VWHoeJ9yGxI/AAAAAAAAAQ0/LTBxza9fn1g/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150524_070859407.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W8Mn79h9bD8/VWHoeJZpS-I/AAAAAAAAAQw/9oXFhtld1_I/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150524_070917531.jpg)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-cPOadzR9Y2g/VWHofmSfZXI/AAAAAAAAARA/R8B0nNEBaHQ/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150524_070925155.jpg)
The 4L80e fit is tight but will only need extra clearance by the rear speed sensor. The Kugel shift linkage looks like it will work without any modification.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ysW4ltSMg4Q/VWHogKgrjII/AAAAAAAAARE/JOO5jwevgSs/w482-h857-no/IMG_20150524_070948887.jpg)
#42
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The turbo log came in from Kyle at KB Racing and I am happy to say it barely fits. He started making these for trucks and has a setup for cars that is slightly lower for hood clearance. I was planning to run Prothane motor mounts but since I have so little space between the suspension and the log, I am swapping out to solid motor mounts. I went ahead and ordered the turbo so I can get the final clearance checked out and that's making sure the hood closes. I was hoping to have it last week but I hope it comes soon. I ended up ordering a Borg Warner S400SX3 with a 75mm cast compressor wheel and race cover. The turbine is T4 83mm 1.25 AR housing.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3wgDFQDAgkc/VXSv3tEVyoI/AAAAAAAAATI/1NuuRTqGzNw/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150527_190721551.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oUd2VcOtd9g/VXSv3iOskEI/AAAAAAAAATM/HQa4sLh21JU/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150527_190730914.jpg)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HccEDN5Qkl8/VXSv58h7cvI/AAAAAAAAATU/gVNYz-8F4tM/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150527_190924394.jpg)
The Dorman Ford Contour dual electric fan fits the radiator decent. It will need some slight trimming but will work fine. I will wait until final assembly to mount the fans and trim them to fit perfect.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c9BaCGTP_0Y/VXSv8Cy8e3I/AAAAAAAAAT0/2j2wHd_aSVY/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150607_154814881.jpg)
The accelerator pedal is the one out of the van. It's big and not ideal but I am using everything that came with the vehicle to avoid any mismatch issues. I also am keeping the stock floor mounted accelerator pedal from the Impala. I purchased a used throttle arm and cut off the end that slides on the pedal. It's not all the way in but will be a press fit. When the final position is good in the car, I will drill it to accept a roll pin and safety wire it. Another reason I chose to stick with the stock style pedal is hope that the slider will provide a bit of dampening to the pedal action. My past experience with DBW felt twitchy and bouncy.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g08k0vxaIYY/VXSv6hnXL5I/AAAAAAAAATk/tgLyPSVBMsM/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150607_154753212.jpg)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3wgDFQDAgkc/VXSv3tEVyoI/AAAAAAAAATI/1NuuRTqGzNw/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150527_190721551.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-oUd2VcOtd9g/VXSv3iOskEI/AAAAAAAAATM/HQa4sLh21JU/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150527_190730914.jpg)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HccEDN5Qkl8/VXSv58h7cvI/AAAAAAAAATU/gVNYz-8F4tM/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150527_190924394.jpg)
The Dorman Ford Contour dual electric fan fits the radiator decent. It will need some slight trimming but will work fine. I will wait until final assembly to mount the fans and trim them to fit perfect.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-c9BaCGTP_0Y/VXSv8Cy8e3I/AAAAAAAAAT0/2j2wHd_aSVY/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150607_154814881.jpg)
The accelerator pedal is the one out of the van. It's big and not ideal but I am using everything that came with the vehicle to avoid any mismatch issues. I also am keeping the stock floor mounted accelerator pedal from the Impala. I purchased a used throttle arm and cut off the end that slides on the pedal. It's not all the way in but will be a press fit. When the final position is good in the car, I will drill it to accept a roll pin and safety wire it. Another reason I chose to stick with the stock style pedal is hope that the slider will provide a bit of dampening to the pedal action. My past experience with DBW felt twitchy and bouncy.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g08k0vxaIYY/VXSv6hnXL5I/AAAAAAAAATk/tgLyPSVBMsM/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150607_154753212.jpg)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q85qZtlvHn0/VXSv7g7VruI/AAAAAAAAATw/HmSOQZmT50c/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150607_154800015.jpg)
#43
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I was bored so I tried out my new ethanol tester. I wanted to start a log to show ethanol content of Chicagoland E85 pumps. I will add to it anytime I test a pump and with my most recent visit to a Speedway in Carpentersville, I will test every pump I use.
The decision to go E85 was easy since I live in the northwest suburbs of Chicago (Algonquin IL) and there are several E85 stations within 5 minutes of the house. They are building a Thorton's 1 minute away and my fingers are crossed they will have E85 there also.
I also had a chance to sit down with my step dad who is a retired chemical engineer who spent his career designing oil refineries first with Shell then UOP. It was interesting to hear his thoughts on ethanol. First was why some believe it to be a political failure. Federal subsidies stopped at the end of 2012 and the future of ethanol might be in jeopardy. He explained one of the biggest reasons it did not take off was poor refinery efficiency. He did not get into details but like many government programs, it was thrown together and the goal was never to produce a viable alternate energy. Petroleum companies spend billions of dollars to improve refinery efficiency to squeeze every penny out of crude. It takes over a gallon of diesel to process corn to get one gallon of E85. Sustainable and green are often interchanged but for sure not applicable to E85. Sustainable yes but definitely not green.
The good news for ethanol is there are some pretty cool energy technologies on the horizon that may provide a truly green source of ethanol. My stepdad currently consults for a company called LanzaTech and they discovered a bacteria that converts steel mill waste products into ethanol. They are on their last phase pilot plant ready to start the full scale plant at one of China's largest steel producers. Pollution into E85 seems like a win win to me.
Anyways, here is the log. Feel free to add to it if you are anywhere in northern Illinois, southeast Wisconsin, or Northwest Indiana.
Lake In the Hill Thornton's - 5-25-15 - $2.199 - E87
Elk Grove Village Thorton's - 5-26-15 - $2.199 - E87
Carpentersville Speedway - 6-6-15 - $2.119 - E55
So you can see that you absolutely have to test your E85. I was really surprised that there was such a big difference.
How the tester works.
Fill the tube with water to the lower line (maybe 15% full) then fill the rest with E85 and shake thoroughly. Allow the tube to rest and wait for the separation. This will show ethanol content. It works because water is very soluble in ethanol but not gasoline. The gas will remain separate and be on top. If you have ever used a product called Heet to keep ice from forming in your fuel system it is basically ethanol. It makes any moisture in your tank easier to solubilize in gasoline to it can be used instead of building up and freezing in your tank.
Thorton's LITH
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uDfxvOeMGck/VXQmO_YMdYI/AAAAAAAAASk/zq9ckWkYGZU/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150525_080838171.jpg)
Speedway Carpentersville off the chart in a bad way. At least they are above their own stated minimum (barely).
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QanBqRje-hg/VXQmPOkkv_I/AAAAAAAAASc/pX_hKp7vzcY/w482-h857-no/IMG_20150606_173013931.jpg)
The decision to go E85 was easy since I live in the northwest suburbs of Chicago (Algonquin IL) and there are several E85 stations within 5 minutes of the house. They are building a Thorton's 1 minute away and my fingers are crossed they will have E85 there also.
I also had a chance to sit down with my step dad who is a retired chemical engineer who spent his career designing oil refineries first with Shell then UOP. It was interesting to hear his thoughts on ethanol. First was why some believe it to be a political failure. Federal subsidies stopped at the end of 2012 and the future of ethanol might be in jeopardy. He explained one of the biggest reasons it did not take off was poor refinery efficiency. He did not get into details but like many government programs, it was thrown together and the goal was never to produce a viable alternate energy. Petroleum companies spend billions of dollars to improve refinery efficiency to squeeze every penny out of crude. It takes over a gallon of diesel to process corn to get one gallon of E85. Sustainable and green are often interchanged but for sure not applicable to E85. Sustainable yes but definitely not green.
The good news for ethanol is there are some pretty cool energy technologies on the horizon that may provide a truly green source of ethanol. My stepdad currently consults for a company called LanzaTech and they discovered a bacteria that converts steel mill waste products into ethanol. They are on their last phase pilot plant ready to start the full scale plant at one of China's largest steel producers. Pollution into E85 seems like a win win to me.
Anyways, here is the log. Feel free to add to it if you are anywhere in northern Illinois, southeast Wisconsin, or Northwest Indiana.
Lake In the Hill Thornton's - 5-25-15 - $2.199 - E87
Elk Grove Village Thorton's - 5-26-15 - $2.199 - E87
Carpentersville Speedway - 6-6-15 - $2.119 - E55
So you can see that you absolutely have to test your E85. I was really surprised that there was such a big difference.
How the tester works.
Fill the tube with water to the lower line (maybe 15% full) then fill the rest with E85 and shake thoroughly. Allow the tube to rest and wait for the separation. This will show ethanol content. It works because water is very soluble in ethanol but not gasoline. The gas will remain separate and be on top. If you have ever used a product called Heet to keep ice from forming in your fuel system it is basically ethanol. It makes any moisture in your tank easier to solubilize in gasoline to it can be used instead of building up and freezing in your tank.
Thorton's LITH
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uDfxvOeMGck/VXQmO_YMdYI/AAAAAAAAASk/zq9ckWkYGZU/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150525_080838171.jpg)
Speedway Carpentersville off the chart in a bad way. At least they are above their own stated minimum (barely).
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-QanBqRje-hg/VXQmPOkkv_I/AAAAAAAAASc/pX_hKp7vzcY/w482-h857-no/IMG_20150606_173013931.jpg)
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e5_X6soqmBE/VXQmPAsVWPI/AAAAAAAAASg/AqX--1x4428/w482-h857-no/IMG_20150606_174013062_HDR.jpg)
#44
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
And....the money shot. My buddy is coming over tomorrow afternoon to verify hood fitment. If it's a go I will start thrashing on the fabrications of the motor mounts, crossmember, and hotside crossover.
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bBr4wt-nwxg/VXnz2yKtRPI/AAAAAAAAAVE/-cnRHQQ1azw/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150611_133543470.jpg)
The Yank PY3400 Multi-Disk came in too. I verified the height compared to stock and it looks like we are good to go.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LZzUn_oerY1TuC6nLg9rTrYHZ4ASkJB0WaZfyWvtbA4=w1684-h947-no)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-bBr4wt-nwxg/VXnz2yKtRPI/AAAAAAAAAVE/-cnRHQQ1azw/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150611_133543470.jpg)
The Yank PY3400 Multi-Disk came in too. I verified the height compared to stock and it looks like we are good to go.
#46
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I didn't think there would be clearance issues either but there are a few things going on. First, the width between the control arms is no greater than a camaro. Second, by mounting the intercooler behind the core support, I lost a bunch of room in front. Lastly, while the car is big, there is limited height in the engine compartment. To give you an idea, with the stock 327 engine and mounts, the hood won't shut if you flip the air cleaner top. The older B-body (65-66) engine bays appear to have more height to them (taller fenders and mid body line overall).
Last edited by alocker; 06-11-2015 at 05:57 PM.
#47
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I verified final turbo fitment with the help of my lovely wife. Anytime I ask her for help in the garage she cringes and says "not that stupid hood". She catches on quick because that's the only reason I have ever asked her to come out in the garage. Either way she was a trooper because putting a hood on a black car with nice paint can be stressful. The good news is it fits with plenty of room. Time to rip everything back out.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xpVxlk45hE9UqdOj0VSczNGQGCvEZX7bt8MmzThr9ls=w1684-h947-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rKuihSXXadNHS7ASccko9AtnrTlM_7B9b-cLGpVrGRM=w1684-h947-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EALD_9iH9qeEyY3oWDw7X5J8SD8pdNz5CPz_Xw0kuao=w1684-h947-no)
Dual ZL1 fuel pump modules with new style Russell -6 adapters.
Dual ZL1 fuel pump modules with new style Russell -6 adapters.
![](https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Hj3_NNLewdk/VXwIyrQs0nI/AAAAAAAAAXI/QT6YI1NCCQo/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150607_201512568.jpg)
#50
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good choice on the Ricks tank and Carls Vaporworx system.........Not cheap, But put it in and forget about it..............
Ken
Ken
#51
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Both have been great to work with. Like you said the downside is cost. I may have more in my fuel system than some have in their entire swap. It's insurance though. In an NA application a drop in fuel pressure does not really harm anything but in boost you can loose an entire motor. Fuel pressure adjustments are literally as easy as turning one pot. Plus if I want more power down the road I can add a voltage booster to further increase the capacity.
#52
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I love following your builds. Tapping the oil sender tube was very helpful. Thank you.
I did the hydroboost on my LY6-powered dakota, and used all stock Silverado lines. Worked perfectly.
I did the hydroboost on my LY6-powered dakota, and used all stock Silverado lines. Worked perfectly.
#53
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I plan to use at least the stock van hydroboost fittings I got with the motor. It will probably need custom lengths but I just have to get new hose crimped on. I just hope I like the way it feels.
#54
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Today was fun with the arrival of my Rick's Hot Rod Shop stainless gas tank. It arrived safe and sound even though it's giant. This thing is a work of art.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eCG_rg_J2Hii_70CMvYaO1z9rBGHIgPFWT9zncCfs8g=w1684-h947-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iRPv56wNuG9bMIL_lJZDJsDmVsuCI-nCq4TCknbvcS8=w1684-h947-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_xkSjR-pxtpmYXxiKomSdWbNtSFUKh38NuvBU5qMyU0=w533-h947-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8xxi3uKILN7rCyMv4S12gftKIFPoNCEVOl5QlscZWQ8=w533-h947-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JhA8uPHRxAd56APwHSKZzGqCFehsdj8rAl4RBI6y2s0=w1684-h947-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8k-scjSCOV100hnAGan4GNc2C7HE2wjDip-id3cKDxw=w1684-h947-no)
I also picked up the factory gauge temp sender that was modified to thread into the driver side coolant plug. A local performance shop quoted me $40 bucks and 2 days to do it. Not a bad deal since I didnt have the bit or tap. 2 weeks later after showing up multiple times because they kept promising the next day, it cost $65.00. I really didn't want to start a pissing contest about the price but I really wonder how shops like this stay in business when pulling crap like this guarantees no repeat business. The guy kept bitching about how he had to buy the bit and he lost money. Somehow his misquote became my responsibility. Oh well, if it leaks I will just charge back my credit card and be done start over.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fSMJRW0Uc_uMpWzZgHiBVA2LBvNhDb855G8epExS4BY=w1684-h947-no)
I also picked up the factory gauge temp sender that was modified to thread into the driver side coolant plug. A local performance shop quoted me $40 bucks and 2 days to do it. Not a bad deal since I didnt have the bit or tap. 2 weeks later after showing up multiple times because they kept promising the next day, it cost $65.00. I really didn't want to start a pissing contest about the price but I really wonder how shops like this stay in business when pulling crap like this guarantees no repeat business. The guy kept bitching about how he had to buy the bit and he lost money. Somehow his misquote became my responsibility. Oh well, if it leaks I will just charge back my credit card and be done start over.
#55
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 581
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hmmm LITH, Algonquin... Thortons... thats my old stomping ground.
I graduated from Jacobs back in '01 - haven't lived there since '07 when I moved down south. Route 62 and Randall Rd has changed a bunch - hell the strip mall by the high school wasn't there when I graduated.
Good looking build - love the dual ZL1's....
I graduated from Jacobs back in '01 - haven't lived there since '07 when I moved down south. Route 62 and Randall Rd has changed a bunch - hell the strip mall by the high school wasn't there when I graduated.
Good looking build - love the dual ZL1's....
#56
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hmmm LITH, Algonquin... Thortons... thats my old stomping ground.
I graduated from Jacobs back in '01 - haven't lived there since '07 when I moved down south. Route 62 and Randall Rd has changed a bunch - hell the strip mall by the high school wasn't there when I graduated.
Good looking build - love the dual ZL1's....
I graduated from Jacobs back in '01 - haven't lived there since '07 when I moved down south. Route 62 and Randall Rd has changed a bunch - hell the strip mall by the high school wasn't there when I graduated.
Good looking build - love the dual ZL1's....
#58
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Got the tank in and it fits nicely. This application is a bit odd because the 65-70 B-body tank is very shallow. To fit the ZL1 pump module the tank needs to be about 2 inches deeper in the sump area than stock. I want to see it in the light but the thing looks huge. It probably wont be as noticeable at ride height. I have been contemplating powdercoating it black but then it makes the rear of the car look heavy in the butt. I will probably have to wait until I get it back on the wheels to make a final decision.
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-144N-wayM74/VYTej2q3zRI/AAAAAAAAAZA/ZGXaWOk_UkY/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150619_213351207.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-144N-wayM74/VYTej2q3zRI/AAAAAAAAAZA/ZGXaWOk_UkY/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150619_213351207.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k9cFoQflzFQ/VYTejiq-gvI/AAAAAAAAAY8/KaXZMKiUrmQ/w1524-h857-no/IMG_20150619_213427980.jpg)
#60
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Still waiting on a few parts to start the crossover fabrication but making slow and steady progress. I ripped the motor and trans out to test fit the converter and fully mock them up to fabricate the crossover. I am fortunate that there is room where clearance is not ultra critical. Things like modifying the trans dipstick was soooooo much easier out of the car.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8UCBDLYuIJGLRphxfGU4dOROVzE05Wnz6AK_60j-wG4=w1684-h947-no)
The converter clicked in nicely and clearance to the flexplate is perfect.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uyryw_nABqw2WBtHaMUca6l-rO9foPx57TxnxbJ0hJY=w1684-h947-no)
I purchased an Allstar 4L80e dipstick and immediately noticed something was off. The mount strap hole did not seem in the right spot. It was close but seemed far from the bellhousing hole. I figured a couple of hollow spacers and a longer bolt and we would be golden. Wrong. It took me a few minutes to realize the bolt hole were it would mount is not drilled on my block. I guess that's why they have the top bolt. Cutting the strap off, bending it, and re-welding made for a cleaner, tighter fit anyways.
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uly018GytrxD631-3vLTkYChU8XP8p2T_7-WWNI1PYE=w1684-h947-no)
![](https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5w50inFuceDEx1vgzlnIvzi5TB3iBwbmiWZ8hxonXK0=w1684-h947-no)
I dropped some parts off to my welder and he made nice work of the -10an drain bung. He says he will be able to do all the tig welding of the exhaust and intercooler. He does fantastic work for a very reasonable price.
The converter clicked in nicely and clearance to the flexplate is perfect.
I purchased an Allstar 4L80e dipstick and immediately noticed something was off. The mount strap hole did not seem in the right spot. It was close but seemed far from the bellhousing hole. I figured a couple of hollow spacers and a longer bolt and we would be golden. Wrong. It took me a few minutes to realize the bolt hole were it would mount is not drilled on my block. I guess that's why they have the top bolt. Cutting the strap off, bending it, and re-welding made for a cleaner, tighter fit anyways.
I dropped some parts off to my welder and he made nice work of the -10an drain bung. He says he will be able to do all the tig welding of the exhaust and intercooler. He does fantastic work for a very reasonable price.