2000 suburban into 1940 chev panel van
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 6
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From: Wooler Ontario Canada
2000 suburban into 1940 chev panel van Hi everybody and thanks in advance for all the help I already know I will get from this site!! So this is my first LS swap for starters, We have pulled the engine out, (almost stood it up on the tranny to pull it out) It looks like a tight fit to go into this 40. I need info on a good cam to move this along and be a nice cruizer. It has a 5spd tremec tranny with mechanical clutch and a sbc 283. I am pretty sure the clutch will have to be changed to hydraulic. I know I need the ecu flashed, where? and approx what is the going rate? We have air conditioning to factor in, so the mounting brackets to get this all lined up will be interesting I'm sure.... also the wiring harness looks like a treat, i need to go through it and get rid of the non essentials, what do I need to keep on this ? I want to keep it fuel injected, and fuel delivery ? He wants the fuel pump in his tank because he says all inline electric pumps are too loud that he has heard. and what type of intake would be best matched for this swap???? This is going to be a **** pile of work !! But in the end well worth it !
1940 Chevy I just got done with a '39 Chevy so I think most of the questions you have I can tell you what I did and take it from there. First, the motor mounts for the LS are different than a SBC. Several sites sell them or you can make them yourself. I used bolt on SBC frame mounts and adapted the LS to fit. Much easier getting the engine in with no motor mounts in the way. Next is the firewall. There is no need for the distributor cutout any longer and a flat firewall will add room inside too. Your call. The truck wiring harness is to short to mount the ECU inside so I went with an afermarket supplier and mounted the ECU under the dash. If you do go with an aftermarket harness SOME will throw in the ECU reprogramming and some will charge less. Figure around $100-$150 there. Cooling. I was in luck because the '39 had the original radiator so I contacted Brice Thomas and they built a '39 radiator with upper and lower hose bibs relocated and resized. Price was around $400. The original tank was in the '39 so I upgraded to a TANKS tank with cutout for the fuel pump. I used an intank pump from an '03 Trailblazer which fit fine and is an off the shelf part just in case I'm on a trip when it needs replacing.
What kind of budget do you have? There are several ways to go with wiring, Current performance or BP Automotive among others can modify your harness and or program the computer. If you have the budget you can look into the Holley HP system. Keep in mind that by the time you pay someone to modify your harness then program your computer. You will still need to take it and have it tuned for the new cam and other changes you make. The Holley system is something you can install and tune yourself if you take the time to learn the system so in the end it's not really that expensive.
Also keep in mind that you have a truck intake and switching to a car intake is not as simple as just switching the intake, The car intakes throttle body sits lower so it will run into the truck water pump outlet and changing to the car water pump also changes the accessory pulley spacing so you would need to change everything or modify it to make it work.
Also keep in mind that you have a truck intake and switching to a car intake is not as simple as just switching the intake, The car intakes throttle body sits lower so it will run into the truck water pump outlet and changing to the car water pump also changes the accessory pulley spacing so you would need to change everything or modify it to make it work.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Wooler Ontario Canada
We want to do what it takes to have this run properly and problem free. Budget wise we have money to do it right but don't want to go crazy. So at this point we currently don't have the 40 it's getting a makeover. So I would like to start buying the parts we need and getting the engine ready. We are not rebuilding the engine as its low km on it, however I would like to do crank seals,oil pan gasket and headgaskets while it's out. So what I'm after is a parts list to start putting together. He will be happy to hear about the fuel pump btw thanks for that!
With the SBC/tremec, this should be an easy swap.
1" setback mounts will put the LS close to the original trans/engine mating surface location.
You can keep the trans and mechanical clutch. Info here :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-ls-motor.html
LT1wasp.com is a great resource for re-doing your own harness. Also does reflash for $75, I think.
If the motor is low mileage, don't change a thing, don't touch it! Keep the intake, cam, etc. These motors run great and are leak free a long time.
Intank pumps may not be that much quieter, but tend to be more reliable too. Immersed in fuel keeps them cool.
AC will depend on the compressor you use and spacing. But Holley makes brackets for the R4 and sanden compressor in truck, f body, and vette spacing.
1" setback mounts will put the LS close to the original trans/engine mating surface location.
You can keep the trans and mechanical clutch. Info here :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-ls-motor.html
LT1wasp.com is a great resource for re-doing your own harness. Also does reflash for $75, I think.
If the motor is low mileage, don't change a thing, don't touch it! Keep the intake, cam, etc. These motors run great and are leak free a long time.
Intank pumps may not be that much quieter, but tend to be more reliable too. Immersed in fuel keeps them cool.
AC will depend on the compressor you use and spacing. But Holley makes brackets for the R4 and sanden compressor in truck, f body, and vette spacing.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 6
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From: Wooler Ontario Canada
well the water pump was leaking and it looks like traces of coolant on the corner of one of the corners @ head to block, so i just figured while its out should do the head gaskets etc., so this will work with the truck intake as well ? and it seems to be very tight at the front so im curious what has been done with the air inlet ? thanks for the 411 so far ! We also figured that a bit of a cam would help it out, basically he wants this van to have some get up and go. The current 283 just cant pull the weight very well. He drives to many car shows in the States as well as all over here
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TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
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If ya just cant leave it alone ,,,this cam,,
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1089&sb=2
will work great for you , dont forget springs at the same time .
A fuel injected 5.3 ls motor,," lm7" I suppose is a great motor in an of itself no cam neaded , you will be putting a free flowing exhaust behind it im guessing and that alone will increase the power and torque ,,, let alone "drivability" far beyond what the 283 did ,,, Ill bet no one complained about the old suburban not having power ,,, and it probably outweighed the panel you are putting it in by 2000 pounds . The torque curve comparison of a carbed 283 compared to a fuel injected 5.3 ls is a joke the 283 is like a hill up and down ,, while the ls is fairly flat and about 100 foot pounds higher .
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1089&sb=2
will work great for you , dont forget springs at the same time .
A fuel injected 5.3 ls motor,," lm7" I suppose is a great motor in an of itself no cam neaded , you will be putting a free flowing exhaust behind it im guessing and that alone will increase the power and torque ,,, let alone "drivability" far beyond what the 283 did ,,, Ill bet no one complained about the old suburban not having power ,,, and it probably outweighed the panel you are putting it in by 2000 pounds . The torque curve comparison of a carbed 283 compared to a fuel injected 5.3 ls is a joke the 283 is like a hill up and down ,, while the ls is fairly flat and about 100 foot pounds higher .
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 6
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From: Wooler Ontario Canada
so parts list started, ordered the head gasket kit and headbolts, ordered a high volume melling oil pump, bell housing, working on ls flywheel and clutch, also going to replace the knock sensors, any opinions or suggestions on water pump? and part number for pilot bearing ? oh and he has ordered some ceramic headers as well