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Porsche 996 V8 Conversion

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Old 01-12-2015, 11:16 PM
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Default Porsche 996 V8 Conversion

Greetings all,

Now that my project is under way I thought I would begin a thread. After 2 solid years of searching I finally came across the project car I had been looking for, a clean, complete, accident/fire free, manual transmission Porsche 996 Coupe. I was really hoping for an awd model, but for whatever reason 99% of the 996 awd cars in Canada seem to be convertibles.

I managed to acquire a 1999 Carrera C2, with 180,000kms on it, 6 speed transmission, 1 owner car with complete service history, no accidents or body work and in running condition. My plan is to build a nice daily driver and have everything functional, (AC, gauges, etc..). I have always been a big 911 fan, but if I needed a part while cruising in Northern Ontario..I wanted to be able walk into any local auto parts store and pull parts off the shelf…hence the LS swap. I am utilizing the Renegade Hybrids Conversion Kit.
This is my 1st time ever having worked with an LS series engine, so will be leaning on this forum pretty heavily I’m sure.

Got the car home, washed and cleaned out as quickly as possible…so I could start getting to the good stuff. Game on.
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Old 01-12-2015, 11:27 PM
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Putting the car so high in the air for the 1st time ever proved very interesting. To make things even more exciting, I am only working in a 2 car garage.. so I need the car to be mobile while being built to maximize my garage space..this was my solution and it is working out very well.
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6 tons jackstands welded to car dollies..
Old 01-12-2015, 11:34 PM
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Next came the engine and trans removal. I had always heard about how difficult 996s were to work on..was pleasantly surprised when engine and trans came down within a couple hours. Man are these boxster engines massive.

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Once the engine was out, the complaints I had been hearing made sense..to do any mechanical work on this power plant you may as well pull the engine..it’s like a team of engineers got together to make things incredibly and unnecessarily over complicated. Will be happy to have this out of my way asap.
Old 01-13-2015, 02:00 AM
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I'm also on the 2-car garage no air tools swap team! lol. I was also surprised how easy it was to take out the porsche drivetrain. I never changed the oil in mine before i yanked the drivetrain out! lol. Engine buyer test drove, came back 3 hours later and loaded it up in his truck!
Old 01-13-2015, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by boostmonkey
it’s like a team of engineers got together to make things incredibly and unnecessarily over complicated.

There's a name for that. We call it "German." LOL Thanks for posting. Porsche swaps are always interesting to follow.
Old 01-13-2015, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by txstormtrooper
I'm also on the 2-car garage no air tools swap team! lol. I was also surprised how easy it was to take out the porsche drivetrain. I never changed the oil in mine before i yanked the drivetrain out! lol. Engine buyer test drove, came back 3 hours later and loaded it up in his truck!
I am 2 car garage..but I have air thankfully! I imagine when I go the sell the engine it'll disappear quickly..
Old 01-13-2015, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
There's a name for that. We call it "German." LOL Thanks for posting. Porsche swaps are always interesting to follow.
Ok that's funny...I have some new ideas for the swap, so this should be a fun one.
Old 01-13-2015, 11:20 AM
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Congrat's I love this swap,keep them comming!!!
Old 01-13-2015, 12:05 PM
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subscribed!
Old 01-13-2015, 12:51 PM
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Good to see another one going on while I am in the middle of doing mine!!!! Please do a check in on Fierofly's Porsche conversion check in page. That way others will have one location to follow and reference all the 996 conversions.
Old 01-13-2015, 03:12 PM
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Do you have a link to this "check in" page?
Old 01-13-2015, 03:37 PM
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Welcome to the club, looking good. Check out the rest of us at

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ons-check.html

One of us should be able to help with any questions.
Old 01-13-2015, 04:20 PM
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Check in complete..
Old 01-13-2015, 04:26 PM
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Car is in the garage, in the air..the original engine is out..time to start a parts list and get all my goodies together. Starting with….my new engine!
I was referred by a friend to a very nice race shop in Toronto that specializes in LS engines, I had them build me a fresh engine for this project, handful of upgrades and some light porting. I am told by the shop this is an LS6 and with the “warming” they did to the engine should make just over 500hp..which is more than enough for this project.

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Now that it is here..I can tuck it away and start prepping the car.
Old 01-13-2015, 08:50 PM
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I have had the distinct advantage of reading many previous conversion threads prior to embarking on mine and there was one modification I knew I was going to make right from the get go..if any Pcar purists are reading this..now would be the time to look away.

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Must have an access port..seems like sheer madness to not be able to access the rear of the engine if needed for whatever reason. I am also endeavouring to only put the engine up and in place ONE TIME
Old 01-13-2015, 08:55 PM
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Next came the body cutting..I don’t get too worked up over cutting up cars. It’s only metal..I can put some back if I have to.

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I used the tape to make a template, then flatened it out, traced it onto some sheet metal and welded it in place on both sides..almost no gaps that way, which made for much easier welding.
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Both sides, cut, welded, seam sealed and then undercoated. I cut a little more then I needed to, just to make sure there was ample clearance.
Old 01-14-2015, 01:04 PM
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You are still going to have to drill the spot welds and remove the engine cover latch and mount. It will be in conflict with your air intake to the TB, Renegade does not show you pictures of this having to be done. Refer to Fierofly's, txstormtrooper's and my build tread, all of us removed the latch and latch mount. Plus, if you are planning on running the LS water pump, you will need to cut about 1 1/2" or 2" further back to clear the belt drive and to run the coolant hoses. I mocked things up with the RH engine mount and measured the water pump space off the LS to double check the amount I cut out of the rear of mine. Because, I to am running the LS3 water pump and corvette balancer, AC mount and all custom Apler Motorsports accessory brackets for ALT, belt tensioner and PS. You will also need to do some machine work on the RH engine mount to clear the LS water pump. I was planning on detailing this in my build, when I get the time to work on things again.

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Old 01-14-2015, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 4LUX
You are still going to have to drill the spot welds and remove the engine cover latch and mount. It will be in conflict with your air intake to the TB, Renegade does not show you pictures of this having to be done. Refer to Fierofly's, txstormtrooper's and my build tread, all of us removed the latch and latch mount. Plus, if you are planning on running the LS water pump, you will need to cut about 1 1/2" or 2" further back to clear the belt drive and to run the coolant hoses. I mocked things up with the RH engine mount and measured the water pump space off the LS to double check the amount I cut out of the rear of mine. Because, I to am running the LS3 water pump and corvette balancer, AC mount and all custom Apler Motorsports accessory brackets for ALT, belt tensioner and PS. You will also need to do some machine work on the RH engine mount to clear the LS water pump. I was planning on detailing this in my build, when I get the time to work on things again.
Great intel, thanks...more cutting it is then. I did notice a consistent lack of trunk latches in all the pics I saw online. How is everyone fastening their trunks closed? I was thinking I may arrange a magnetic lock system.
Regarding machining the RH engine plate to clear the water pump, I have a 3/4 spacer kit for the water pump which I am told sets the pump far enough away to clear the plate and lines it up perfectly with an f-body pulley. Luckily I am not running PS..i think that would be tight for sure..
Old 01-14-2015, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by boostmonkey
Great intel, thanks...more cutting it is then. I did notice a consistent lack of trunk latches in all the pics I saw online. How is everyone fastening their trunks closed? I was thinking I may arrange a magnetic lock system.
Regarding machining the RH engine plate to clear the water pump, I have a 3/4 spacer kit for the water pump which I am told sets the pump far enough away to clear the plate and lines it up perfectly with an f-body pulley. Luckily I am not running PS..i think that would be tight for sure..
Yep, Believe it or not I've got 2 pieces of Velcro on my hinges that helps, but mostly it's air flow that holds mine, it probably bounces alittle, something I still need to figure out.

Power steering, I drove mine with and without, I've got a switch, I much more prefer and think it was worth the money and effort WITH.
Old 01-14-2015, 06:01 PM
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If I find the steering to be horrible I will certainly plumb in an electric pump.

LS question, Can I run silicone hose to join my steam tubes on the front of the engine by the throttle body..or must it be metal??


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