guitaraholic

Here is the pedal assembly installed. Like I stated before, I mounted the DBW pedal to the firewall instead of the pedal. Yes, This does make adjusting the pedals forward and back a little harder, as you would need to adjust the rod length/make a longer one. Also, the pedal feels quite nice and does not jam at all throughout the entire range, so no worry about the two of them being on different axiseseseseses...lol

msmnick

iTrader: (1)

Never heard of one of these, but love the GTM. Interested to hear more about your reasons on choosing this option in depth. I've done a bit of reading on the GTM and never came across one of these. Your car looks incredible. The wiring is creeping me out/putting me off, but I just got done doing a big rewire on a 1994 Kenworth, so I'm just loathe to see any loose wires right now! The sheathing looks professional, really saves headaches from chaffing down the road.

I also love the pedal setup. Looks stout as hell. The go-pedal looks funny from the top angle in the last pick, I could have swore it looked hard mounted to the floor! Going to the other pic above I can see how it works, but the optical illusion in the last pic is pretty good. Looks like a non-moving gas pedal. Hah.

guitaraholic

The wiring isn't near as crazy at it looks to be (I've spent maybe a total of 2-3 hours on wiring so far). The ISIS system (Yeah, bad name for them to have now), makes things relatively painless. There are a lot of wires, but most of it just plugs in to where it goes, and the instructions are pretty easy to follow

Yes, you have to make the connections/pigtails to the headlights (even the taillights now just plug in), radiator fans, ignition, HVAC and a few others, but for the most part, it's straight forward, with no guessing. I'm thinking of skipping the guage displays and plugging straight into the OBDII port and use OBDII reading software (such as torque, or something similiar) and run it on tablet or LCD/LED display controlled by a small computer. This will be mounted in gauge pod. I'll try to mold it in, and hide the corners so it doesn't look like you are looking at a square screen.


I believe I stated most of the reasons I chose this over the GTM near the beginning of this post. However here are the main reasons

Pros:

1. Aluminum Monoque Chassis - lighter and very stiff

2. All the parts are new (no donor parts, so if you use a new engine/transaxle, you will have a new car in a sense)

3. Ease of build (this is a BIG ONE!!)
-- I think I can be done in about 400 hours (theoritically, you can do one in as little as 200 hours), instead of a couple thousand hours like the GTM. Plus the GTM requires a TON of body work to make it look good. As things don't line up, and are very assymetrical, and have to but cut and/or built up.

4. More track proven than the GTM.
---Right now GTM's are having a hard time going over 150mph, while the SLC has been clocked at 195mph on the banks of Daytona. It has also set numerous lap records at Virginia International Raceway and Ohio. The GTM also has some suspension issues that make it as some have described almost terrifying at high speed.

5. Looks like nothing else on the street.
--Don't get me wrong, I've seen a GTM in person, it kinda reminds me of a Lotus Elise. Yes the portions are a bit off, but just how it flows, overall, it's the generic "supercar" look. The SLC get's stares no matter where you go. I've put the thing on a flat bed trailer as a rolling chassis (no headlights, taillights, or even anythign cut out, and tape all over it, and people EVERYWHERE stop in their tracks and photograph it.

6. Ergonomics
--When I sat in the GTM I felt like my head was about to hit the roof, I couldn't see very well out the front because the roll cage cut off most of the view. It felt like I was driving with the sunvisor stuck straight down. If you stopped right under a stop light, I doubt you would see it. I also didn't like the roll cage 2" from my temple, and I don't even think I had room for a helmet so I would be damned either way, and who wants to take a slow drive down the boulevard with a helmet on (Richard Hammond might call you a "spanner"..lol)
The SLC has plenty of headroom and good visual out the front and sides. Yes, both have total crap from the rear,, but that is expected from almost all mid-engined supercars

7. More Engine/Transaxle choices
--Yes, I went with the LS3/G50-20, however, it will probably not stay that way. As I already have an Infinity VK56VD in my garage, and I have also started to take notice of the M159 Engine (Merc). It's a 6.2 that can make over 630hp and weighs about the same as the LS(x) engine. Also, the SLC has been using not only Porsche transaxles, but Audi, Lambo, Ricardo, and a meriade of others.

8. Safety
--First when you see the chassis, yes it's aluminum, but it's built like a damn tank. I found that out when drilling holes for lines and electrical. A lot of it is made from 1/4" (IIRC) aluminum plate, and in some places the tubes are doubled up. Also the fuel tank is set up like a LeMans race car (and cars like the Zonda), the take is near the center of the chassis. Basically, if you rupture the tank, it's the least of your problems, because you have been squashed by a semi truck, because the only way to the tank is either through the engine or through YOU. The GTM has them on the sides (modified Corvette Tanks), and I would be afraid a side impact my cause a nice splash (or worse yet a SPRAY) of gas.


Cons:

Only two things that bother me about the SLC, and they are both "kind of" inter-related. It does have a little bit of a spaceship/bubble look from some angles, and no roll down windows.

msmnick

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see you did a lot of research before going into it. I have been looking seriously into a kit supercar in the next few years. I'm getting my feet wet with the ls-swapped Miata currently, to see what small car/large power feels like on a course. Before, it was about 1/2 the power of the new motor.

The monocoque chasis seems very lotus-esque, and as you mention it looks well built/well thought out. As well, ergonomics would be what keeps you in the car on the weekends, or gets you out of the car after a few harsh hours, I suppose, so that makes sense. In my car I had trouble seeing stop lights like you mentioned as I sat too high, had to make new seat mounts to solve it, small ergonomic things do make a big difference.

I'm having trouble thinking of solutions to the windows with how they are built. Are they simple permanently installed, or just removable. At first, I was thinking making a reward sliding portion would be the simplest solution, but it wouldn't quite look right IMO, and It would be a tough call building it then testing it to 190mph+ as you say some may reach those speeds. I can see it being an issue, though minor. I don't quite see either the SLC or GTM being a supercar you take on the street often, but maybe I'm mistaken. The 911 turbo or R8 makes a bit more sense as a "normal" street drivable super car, the SLC looks more like an incredible track car that can be driven on the street in moderation. That might be a flawed idea, as the drivetrain should be rock solid, just avoid those .5" deep potholes.

Honestly can't wait to see this car done. Saw a panoz formula car last day at the track, simply astounding sound, and very unique look. As you say, the SLC looks like nothing else out there.

guitaraholic

If I were to totally go off the wall, and try to fix the two issues. I would do the following, though it would take a large amount of time, money and skill to do this

I would replace the front windshield with an Elise windshield, custom build the rollcage, and use Elise doors, and modify/trim the bottom to fit with the SLC body. We're talking a couple hundred hours of work, and I am not sure i am totally up to that. I might look into something like the SL-A (Superlite Apex), for a daily, it uses a 2G eclipse cabin, and the rest is cut/bolted on. Sounds crazy, but remember, cars like the Bugatti Veyron come apart in 3 sections, and are held together with about 15 or so titanium bolts.

guitaraholic

Here a view with the body shell off, as you can see, chassis is very stout. As always, will show more pictures later.

4LUX

I have been looking into building a SLC myself. I first need to finish my Porsche 911 LS2 swap. In doing this Porsche swap, I have found that I would use the Mendeola SDR5 transaxle next time for the Porsche or the SLC. More gearing options and built to handle big power!!!

guitaraholic

I've looked into Mendiola myself, I just wish they made a 6-speed.

msmnick

iTrader: (1)

There is no arguing with that photo with the shell off, this car is an art piece. Big fan. The elise idea sounds very labor intensive, props if you choose to do it. I don't see an easy option, myself. Has anyone else tried anything with the windows?

Another thought, does heat transfer into the cabin at all while traveling at lower speeds? I wonder, with the firewall being right behind your head. I'm guessing with the exhaust routing on this machine, its less of a concern than a front engine vehicle.

And you are right, the Apex looks like what I have in mind when I think driveable supercar. That thing is amazing.

guitaraholic

From what I've read, heat shielding is a must. I plan on putting up a sheet of aluminum, or maybe even something along the lines of aluminite (aluminum/fiberglass sandwich), and lots of heat sheilding. The good thing is, unlike the GTM, the coolant lines run outside the body, not through the tunnel.

Once I get everything "in place" I will be putting a lot of heat sheilding and sound dampener all over the place (try to use it in the most effective places as to minimize uses and keep weight down, as it's not hard to add 100lbs in just sound dampener if you went crazy with it)

guitaraholic

I've got all the holes drilled except the ones on the front corner hoop.

Yes, I don't have the right length bolts (only have a few to secure it down so I can drill the rest of the holes without it moving. Lowes sells 3.5" grade 8 bolts for $1.50 each,,,,or I can wait for a couple of days (when they have them in stock) and get the same bolts from Threaded Fasteners in Mobile for $0.33 each. Hmmm,, I'll wait a few days since I have to buy 25 of them, as well as the washers and locking nuts that I'll have to get too.

guitaraholic

Okay, completely bolted in the rollcage

Also cut M10x1.5 threaded rod (made out of whatever is the next step higher in strength than Grade 8) into the correct lengths to bolt the G50 to the adapter. It 's mounted on (fits nice), but no clutch or flywheel at the moment, as I will be doing that once everything else is all together. Also, I have to shorten the gear shifter by 2 inches. The rear housing has been sent off to get modified to fit (it too will be two inches shorter)

Pictures of that to come.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

My buddy is doing an SLC with 20b turbo power and a G50/52. He is going nuts on the car. He has the largest big brake option and many one off self created upgrades. I love those cars!

For sound/heat deadening look into "lizard skin" coatings.

guitaraholic

I think I've seen him on the GT40s forum. 3-rotor will sound quite awesome, and be smooth as glass.

On a side note,, the RX-7 has been one of my favorite imports for a long time. I would have gotten one, but when I was looking, people were still asking $15k for a 15 year old car and sold for $35k when new.

guitaraholic

Here is the G50 mounted to the adapter (will have more pics later),









Drilled holes in the chassis to mount the crossmember for the engine. Had to remove the engine after I marked the holes (needed engine in place so I knew where to drill the mount holes). I swear by the time I'm done with this thing, I'll be able to take the car apart and put it together with my eyes closed.

chuntington101

Cool build. Dose anyone know if the SLC chassis has been tested for tortional stiffness?

guitaraholic

Yes, I believe when tested it was around 24,000 NM/Deg, which is quite high. The aluminum is thick as crap throughout the entire chassis,

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Just an fyi, it looks like you're running the batwing corvette pan. A few years ago the C5 corvette guy were giving those away because they claim oil starvation issues in hard cornering. I'm running one on my 68 LS corvette, but I don't ever expect the kind of cornering loads you or C5 guys will have.

guitaraholic

Yes (good eye), I am running a batwing, though, I've heard goods and bads about them. Though I've heard they work great if you keep a quart or so of extra oil in them, and don't run a high volume oil pump.

I'll proably wind up going dry sump down the road, just looking to get it up and running and "maybe" take it to a track or two this year, but for now, it will just be for spirited driving and some car shows.

Next winter will be when I start doing some serious upgrades (got other things to worry about right now).

msmnick

iTrader: (1)

When you look into dry sump, check out ARE. Good stuff coming out of their shop. I went with the LS7 ARE/Katech setup, modifed ls7/9 pump with an extra belt driven scavenge pump and pan. The 3-stage LS bolt on unit is a pretty good option, too. Not sure where diminshing returns lies with 4 and 5 stage pumps, but what I have suffices for z06s on track, which is reassuring.

Batwing+extra quart of oil and cooling I've read on Corvette forums working out. Accusump is also an option with the batwing pan. I don't think you'll run into problems with your plan so long as you monitor on track pressure.

looking forward to your progress as always.