1937 Ford Sedan
#101
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Spring towers tack welded and front suspension being mocked up. I really like the new design that uses shims instead of T bolts, but beware......if you use this kit it has control arms that are 5/8" more narrow than standard. When I first put it together the upper control arm was actually grazing the spring tower during the up/down travel, but after I put enough shims in to get in the ballpark of 0 camber the clearance is about 3/16". And of course more weight will change it as well.
![](http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag61/Kharp1/Crossmember%20assm%2018_zpstiegeyft.jpg)
#104
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Andrew I believe that with the narrow control arms the clearances will just be a little tighter. I prefer the narrow arms to pull the tires in and help with fender clearance so I'm sticking with them for now. If I figure out something different I'll post it. Good video on the hard line flaring!
#106
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Seriously the all thread works great for controlling the width and angle while getting the spring towers in place.
Last edited by Kharp; 04-09-2015 at 08:59 PM.
#107
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I have no problem with you just getting a poke in the ribs. I like what the rods are helping you do. Just use a 3 piece driveshaft and shorter air cleaner, it all fit. engine that high you wont have to go under to change oil.
#108
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The narrowed arms are the only way to go on those old "Beaters"........LOL.....Great Job!!!!
#109
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The inner fenders on these cars will not clear upper control arms without some modifications. The fab work starts with a template.
![](http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag61/Kharp1/Inner%20fender%20mods%206_zpsyvynuw65.jpg)
The fender was then trimmed and installed for a trial fit. This is only the first step. All of the fins must be tied together somehow to hold it together and give the panel some strength. More soon.....
![](http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag61/Kharp1/Inner%20fender%20mods%206_zpsyvynuw65.jpg)
The fender was then trimmed and installed for a trial fit. This is only the first step. All of the fins must be tied together somehow to hold it together and give the panel some strength. More soon.....
![](http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag61/Kharp1/Inner%20fender%20mods%201_zps9sd5esnc.jpg)
Last edited by Kharp; 04-10-2015 at 08:39 PM.
#110
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The factory bottom portion of the panel, the bare metal piece shown in the picture, was saved so it could be mended back in a higher location. There will be 2 more small pieces that will help tie the ends of this piece to the frame, and then all the fins will be welded back together. Hopefully this will be a nice clean look inside the engine compartment. More soon.....
![Name: Inner%20fender%20mods%205_zpspztfiytu.jpg
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Last edited by Kharp; 04-10-2015 at 08:37 PM.
#111
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your doing some good work/thinking it thru. You have motor in mind/bought for it? cool project as I really like the front end treatment on these body styles.
#112
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Larkman - I do have a mock up motor shown on page 4 of this thread, but I do not have the real deal yet. Plenty of fab work between now and then.....
#113
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I currently have the need to make some sheet metal parts to finish the inner fenders. A friend of mine, who owns a sheet metal shop here in town, donated an old style manual shear for my project (Thanks Butch!). I mounted it on my bench this morning and made a trial run on a piece of scrap. The shear works great, but the operator needs more practice. ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
![Name: Shear%202_zpsydg3qmck.jpg
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Last edited by Kharp; 04-20-2015 at 09:56 PM.
#115
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The Boyz gots Skilz..................Great Job!!!
#117
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#118
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Thanks Ken means a lot coming from you. I welded the fins back together tonight on the inner fender and it was quite the challenge. They are made from 78 year old 20 gauge and it was really soft metal. The fact that they cut apart so easily with tin snips should have been a clue what was ahead.
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#119
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