1937 Ford Sedan
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From: Tyler, TX
Working on modifying the "dog" brackets 
he he ........no seriously I'm looking at widening the rear wheel wells as much as I can without getting into the frame. I've been gathering parts, materials, and I've been studying on the best way to do it, but I haven't cut anything yet.
he he ........no seriously I'm looking at widening the rear wheel wells as much as I can without getting into the frame. I've been gathering parts, materials, and I've been studying on the best way to do it, but I haven't cut anything yet. Thread Starter
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From: Tyler, TX
Things look fantastic and you are making amazing progress. My physical condition has changed over the past while and I am going to have to abandon my 37 unable to do the physical work on it anymore. I will keep watching your build though going to be a great car when done.
I put the booster under the floor on my build (39 Chevy) just like you did. Did not want to heat up the M/C so I looped the exhaust under the engine over to the pass. side then looped it back just behind the driveshaft universal joint. Kind of going around your elbow but it keeps the heat away and can sorta act as a driveshaft safety loop should it fall out of the trans (like that's going to happen!).
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From: Tyler, TX
1937 Ford Sedan I figured a mock up wheel would help determine what I needed to do on the rear wheel wells on the body. I looked all over the place for a wheel to use as a starting point. 17x8, about 5.25 backspacing, center hole to clear my axle hub, 5 x 4.5 bolt circle, and CHEAP! The reason for the backspacing being more than I really need is so I can move the wheel out until I figure out what it should be using washers and spacers, and then I'll have a good number for the real wheel. Luckily I have "Daddy Bills" wheel sizes for Clarence to get me in the ballpark right off the bat. I had to knock out a couple of studs and use some longer bolts for the time being, and also come up with some lug nuts to work with the wheel. It took some time to track this stuff down, but maybe there won't be any surprises later........such as tire rub.
I had to knock out a couple of studs and use some longer bolts for the time being, and also come up with some lug nuts to work with the wheel. It took some time to track this stuff down, but maybe there won't be any surprises later........such as tire rub. 
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From: Tyler, TX
1937 Ford Sedan Assembled the chassis and dropped the body back on it. I have all the body mounts and hardware labeled, and already had the hoist/straps from when I took it off originally....so I had it back on by myself in about 2 hours. Glad I took the time to get all the stuff rigged up the first time.
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From: Tyler, TX
1937 Ford Sedan Had some caged nuts that were rusted out so I had to run down some parts and take care of those so I could mount the fender. I searched and found the exact tire I was looking for that was used up and cheap - its the exact size Ken had on his 37 Coupe. I just guessed at the lowering blocks when I put the rear end in the car since it won't have much weight on it. I was shooting for the top of the tire at the fender and didn't miss it by much. SO the tire fits as is, but doesn't have much clearance for suspension travel in the front area of the wheel well. Stay tuned for mini tubs...actually they will be more like a micro tub with a taper .
. 
Last edited by Kharp; Mar 14, 2016 at 06:06 AM.
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From: Tyler, TX
. I worked there until I was 22 and a college grad. Nowadays I live an hour from Bill's shop, but we have stayed in touch for the last 25 years or so. I proudly claim "Daddy Bill" and "Moma Donna" as my second set of parents. Bill has built many cars with LT and LS packages for himself and customers, and currently rides in a 37 Ford (Clarence) that is one of my all time favorite cars. Even though he mostly lurks on this board following my project, he is a GREAT resource!Bill I will be honored to run with Clarence one of these days. Lately I've been ordering parts like crazy, but me and the shop dog still have many challenges ahead before my ol' beater is road worthy ....
Last edited by Kharp; Mar 16, 2016 at 02:37 PM.
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From: Tyler, TX
1937 Ford Sedan Fender installed outside. Bracing installed inside. Wheel well ready to cut. Note the front arcs down to barely miss a body mount - pics from bottom side to follow later.
Last edited by Kharp; Mar 27, 2016 at 09:41 PM.
I've never tried it myself, but I saw it on another thread I think it was on here somewhere, I can't remember, but the guy had the same issue with old undercoating and he bought some dry ice and set it on the undercoating and did a deep freeze on the undercoating and then just tapped it with a hammer and it fell off in big chunks. In theory it sounds like it could work?
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From: Encinitas CA
Looking great! *Really* enjoying the build from afar.
Curious, will you use some form of traction bar so as to avoid axle wrap? I had removed a single leaf spring setup from my truck in exchange for a triangulated 4-link I built with coil overs.
The axle wrap I experienced following my swap with the single leaf was absolutely horrendous and if representative, I'd suggest building in something to pro-actively resolve that.
Thank you,
Doug
Curious, will you use some form of traction bar so as to avoid axle wrap? I had removed a single leaf spring setup from my truck in exchange for a triangulated 4-link I built with coil overs.
The axle wrap I experienced following my swap with the single leaf was absolutely horrendous and if representative, I'd suggest building in something to pro-actively resolve that.
Thank you,
Doug
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From: Tyler, TX