78 cutlass salon 4 door swap
#21
Said the hell with it. Bought the 302-1 holley pan. Fits fantastic! But alas, I am an idiot. My sliders are already as far forward as possible, so I basically bought a pan for ground clearance. Which is fine. But my mini starter was unnecessary, but makes a whole lot more room for exhaust. Got my water pump installed to. Bought a corvette pump, cut the pulley off and pressed my factory truck pulley back on. Looks like it'll work like a champion.
#23
I have the full harness and ecm from the Silverado doner. Might try and follow the lt1swap write up on making it stand alone. Might send it off somewhere and have it redone since it'll need plugs changed for the ls6 injectors....
Kind of undecided at the moment. I'll probably get the cross member for the transmission done first. Then send off my parts for a drive shaft. But that's a whole nother dilemma.
The salon is currently set up with the original 7.5". And I happen to have a few 8.8" ford's floating around because I like to stockpile part's... so I kinda wonder if I shouldn't just say **** it and just do the 8.8 swap now vs. having to change a drive shaft again later...
Oh decisions...
Kind of undecided at the moment. I'll probably get the cross member for the transmission done first. Then send off my parts for a drive shaft. But that's a whole nother dilemma.
The salon is currently set up with the original 7.5". And I happen to have a few 8.8" ford's floating around because I like to stockpile part's... so I kinda wonder if I shouldn't just say **** it and just do the 8.8 swap now vs. having to change a drive shaft again later...
Oh decisions...
#25
I have the full harness and ecm from the Silverado doner. Might try and follow the lt1swap write up on making it stand alone. Might send it off somewhere and have it redone since it'll need plugs changed for the ls6 injectors....
Kind of undecided at the moment. I'll probably get the cross member for the transmission done first. Then send off my parts for a drive shaft. But that's a whole nother dilemma.
The salon is currently set up with the original 7.5". And I happen to have a few 8.8" ford's floating around because I like to stockpile part's... so I kinda wonder if I shouldn't just say **** it and just do the 8.8 swap now vs. having to change a drive shaft again later...
Oh decisions...
Kind of undecided at the moment. I'll probably get the cross member for the transmission done first. Then send off my parts for a drive shaft. But that's a whole nother dilemma.
The salon is currently set up with the original 7.5". And I happen to have a few 8.8" ford's floating around because I like to stockpile part's... so I kinda wonder if I shouldn't just say **** it and just do the 8.8 swap now vs. having to change a drive shaft again later...
Oh decisions...
#26
I have a few newer 8.8's out of crown vic cop cars. Factory posi's and disc brakes. The small ford 5 lug pattern. 5 on 4.5.
I recall reading somewhere that someone makes a direct swap kit with all the 4 link bars to install a 8.8 without having to cut and weld brackets on. But either way. I have a huge shop full of tools to work with.
I recall reading somewhere that someone makes a direct swap kit with all the 4 link bars to install a 8.8 without having to cut and weld brackets on. But either way. I have a huge shop full of tools to work with.
#27
im jelous of that shop i see in pics. use some dual pattern wheels you be ok. harness is only hard if needing to move pcm connectors elsewhere. I did my buick skylark putting pcm in car. lengthened driver side wires & shortened pass side cut/heat shrinck/soldering.
#28
Also, just curious, but why did you get a Corvette waterpump and put the truck pully on it?
#30
I bought the vette pump due to clearance issues with the throttle body. Regardless of which truck style pump I went with the cable driven throttle body hit the neck. The shafts are the same length.
So rather than spend money on spacers to make the belt line up with my truck accessories, I put the truck pulley in the correct location on the new pump. I'll snap some pics tonight.
So rather than spend money on spacers to make the belt line up with my truck accessories, I put the truck pulley in the correct location on the new pump. I'll snap some pics tonight.
#33
Well that would've been nice to have known... oh well... I still solved the problem. Speaking of... scored some BBK f body long tubes. So I'll be making those fit once I put my starter back on.
#38
Update from sunday. Transmission cross member is in and done. Driver side header is on. Had to do a little clearancing. Pass side is next so I can get my Damm dipstick in. Found a fox body 8.8 for $75 locally.
#39
Oh, and the starter is on. Along with a whole bunch of other little odds and ends. I'm really debating on just biting the bullet and sending off my harness to a guy in Kansas to have him go through it and swap injector plugs. I really REALLY dislike wiring.
#40
do the wiring yourself it not hard. get a razor blde, snips, tape to keep bundled, go for it using LT1Swap.com list print off. pcm connectors are numbered. just do 1 plug at a time. you will figure out that a colored wire goes from pcm connector to sensor plug then a ground comes back to bundled grounds in harness. oil pressure, ac plug, iac on top intake goes away, 2 oxygen sensors go away, low oil indicator on oil pan goes away, big purple to starter goes away. you can tie all the injectors on each side into 1 to tidy up then tie both sides together on 10 amp ignition fuse key run. coils go onto 10 amp fuse ignition key on run position. wire to brake switch, 2 orange battery power pcm, 2 pink pcm on 10 amp ignition/key run as well, and wire fuel pump out to relay then back to pump on 10 amp fuse with key run.