67 Bel Air LS Conversion
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After determining that the pan will be acceptable......I decided to pull the engine out again so I could finish up changing the steering box from that super slow stock ratio manual box to a Jeep Grand Cherokee power steering box....Three turns lock to lock.......I also can now finish "Clearancing" the trans tunnel to fit the new trans..........and I also removed the gas tank so it can be modified to work with the new fuel system.........also removed were the front Drum Brakes which will be replaced with Discs........Mark is bringing over the balance of parts next week so we can do the final assy...........This was hard the first time I did it , but..........LOL...........Also here are some more pic's from the underside of the car..........Just Amazing......
Ken
Ken
I just used the 302-2 pan & Energy Suspension mounts on a LS3/4L60E swap into a 1968 Chevelle and the trans clears the tunnel without any mods.
Russ Kemp
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Not true, did you look at the Holley 302-2 pan? It's over an inch shallower in the front then the 302-1 or the H3 pan. Then you can use the Energy Suspension LS mounts that will lower your engine enough for the trans to clear the tunnel. Plus your driveline angle will be greatly improved.
I just used the 302-2 pan & Energy Suspension mounts on a LS3/4L60E swap into a 1968 Chevelle and the trans clears the tunnel without any mods.
Russ Kemp
I just used the 302-2 pan & Energy Suspension mounts on a LS3/4L60E swap into a 1968 Chevelle and the trans clears the tunnel without any mods.
Russ Kemp
The "B" Body cars are rear steer......The 302-1 pan clears everything with the spacers........The 302-2 pan is longer in the sump area and won't work with the steering behind the crossmember..............
Ken
Russ Kemp
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Spokane, WA
The -1 pan is the way to go.
-Nick
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From: Longview, TX
Prothane Poly Mounts.......................Here's a link to the drawing......Scroll down to #215
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ersion-11.html
Ken
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ersion-11.html
Ken
Just an FYI...you can link directly to Post #215 (or any post) simply by clicking the post number.
Tipsy
Tipsy
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Mark stopped over yesterday and dropped off more boxes.........Perfect timing.......Put the new front sway bar on today.......It fits.......Sort of........Generic Kits...............Also got the front disc brakes on ......Now on to the new Power Booster and master....(After a Nap).......
67 Bel Air Andrew, I think we are going to do what Mark did. Drag our toys over to Ken's place. Mark is the smartest one of us all LOL!
Ken, glad to see you finally won Mark over to our side! Loved his Biscayne, Chevelle, and Impala but this one is really awesome.
See you guys on Power Tour this summer.
Tom
Ken, glad to see you finally won Mark over to our side! Loved his Biscayne, Chevelle, and Impala but this one is really awesome.
See you guys on Power Tour this summer.
Tom
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The next step in the conversion is to replace the stock Master Cylinder with a Matched Disc/Drum Power Master cylinder assy...............Had to elongate the holes on the booster adaptor to get them to fit over the factory studs on the firewall......(you would think the aftermarket guys would have that pattern figured out by now).........I also had to remount the Proportioning valve as there were some clearance issues.......I also had to make some new Brake lines and got to use the "Best" Tool in the garage again.......The Eastwood Flaring tool.....After fighting with those Chinese Crap Flaring tools while building the Chevelle and buying a Real tool............What a delight.......No stress......Just flare in 10 seconds.....every flare is perfect..........one more line to run and the Engine/Trans go's in for good (hopefully)......
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From: Longview, TX
Looks good. I would love to get one of those Eastwood tools, but so far my Imperial tool has not given me a good enough reason to toss it...
One question - What is the yellow wire with crimped on terminals on the rag joint for?
One question - What is the yellow wire with crimped on terminals on the rag joint for?
Pretty sure that's an overkill ground strap. Sometimes the horn will not work if the inner shaft isn't grounded to the frame, and being isolated by the rubber rag joint, it sometimes is necessary.
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Andrew