1970 Chevelle Greenbrier Wagon - L96 w/6L90E
#62
That issue with the media blaster might be caused by moisture. You are in an area of low humidity, I know, but I recently experience the same problem and I solved it by installing a water/moisture filter just before the media blaster. I think one should be included or they should at least mention it in the directions.
#63
Got the frame back from the powder coater and got the front control arms back from Dan's Driveline. As a result of my pending relocation to Chicago, time is of the essence. I made a mistake when trying to epoxy paint the frame and just didn't have the time to prep it all over again.
I also finally picked up the hood and the wheels. This is what they'd look like on the car even though in these pics, the frame and suspension are not there.
I also finally picked up the hood and the wheels. This is what they'd look like on the car even though in these pics, the frame and suspension are not there.
#64
Been a little while since I've updated, but I have been working diligently on the project amongst other things.
Today, I got the engine back in the frame, hopefully for the last time.
I put the body back on temporarily after cutting a big "I" in the tunnel. I didn't go as far as the BRP guid says to go, but it's still a little bit bigger than I probably needed. Prior to cutting it, the tail of the 6L90 was hitting the tunnel, but it looks like it was just barely. I'm going to weld in a 3/4" piece of flat stock and there should be more than enough room. I can get my fingers between the body and the bell housing with no issue.
This is with the motor in and the body sitting back on the frame.
Not a great picture of it back on frame, a little dark. The front coil overs still need to be adjusted and the rear upper control arms need to be adjusted a bit.
Another shot
I also got a good deal on a non-operable cow hood
I also cleared off the firewall so I can paint it with POR15. The undercarriage has been cleaned up and the Lizard Skin is waiting to go on. A Vintage Air a/c setup will be going in place of the heater box. Looks like at one point someone made it a room without a view.
What is this? ^
I also ordered a bunch of parts including the exhaust, well part of it.
Hooker 42114 G-body swap downpipes. Not sure if these will work and I'm not sure about the quality, plus they showed today, two weeks before Jegs said they would. Not that it's a bad thing, just frustrating. As far as the quality, and I'm not sure if it is an issue or not, but the bung on one of the pips was not aligned with the hole drilled into the pipe itself. I'll have to see if it's going to cause an issue with the instal of the O2 sensor.
Pypes XVA10: I think That I probably should have ordered the XVF10 as those run down the tunnel.
Driveshaft: 2010 Chevy Express van aluminum shaft with 6L90 yoke. I'm going to have it shortened and a conversion joint put in so it will bolt up to the 10 bolt.
Today, I got the engine back in the frame, hopefully for the last time.
I put the body back on temporarily after cutting a big "I" in the tunnel. I didn't go as far as the BRP guid says to go, but it's still a little bit bigger than I probably needed. Prior to cutting it, the tail of the 6L90 was hitting the tunnel, but it looks like it was just barely. I'm going to weld in a 3/4" piece of flat stock and there should be more than enough room. I can get my fingers between the body and the bell housing with no issue.
This is with the motor in and the body sitting back on the frame.
Not a great picture of it back on frame, a little dark. The front coil overs still need to be adjusted and the rear upper control arms need to be adjusted a bit.
Another shot
I also got a good deal on a non-operable cow hood
I also cleared off the firewall so I can paint it with POR15. The undercarriage has been cleaned up and the Lizard Skin is waiting to go on. A Vintage Air a/c setup will be going in place of the heater box. Looks like at one point someone made it a room without a view.
What is this? ^
I also ordered a bunch of parts including the exhaust, well part of it.
Hooker 42114 G-body swap downpipes. Not sure if these will work and I'm not sure about the quality, plus they showed today, two weeks before Jegs said they would. Not that it's a bad thing, just frustrating. As far as the quality, and I'm not sure if it is an issue or not, but the bung on one of the pips was not aligned with the hole drilled into the pipe itself. I'll have to see if it's going to cause an issue with the instal of the O2 sensor.
Pypes XVA10: I think That I probably should have ordered the XVF10 as those run down the tunnel.
Driveshaft: 2010 Chevy Express van aluminum shaft with 6L90 yoke. I'm going to have it shortened and a conversion joint put in so it will bolt up to the 10 bolt.
#67
I received my G-body downpipes and they look like they are going to clear just fine. I need to run apex a 9" extension off them to get the X pipe to cross in the right spot, but I may abandon the X pipe as a whole and do individual dual exhaust out the rear if I can't make this work the way I want it to.
On one of the downpipes the bung seems to be offset a little from the pipe material, and I haven't checked it yet, but I'm worried it's going to interfere with the O2 sensor.
Offset a little more to the 11 o'clock position.
The other downpipe which appears to have the bung properly centered.
Installed based on recommendation, with the bungs facing out.
Installed the opposite way, just to see how it fit.
top view
With Pypes X-pipe. Needs about a 9" extension off of the Hooker downpipes to clear everything.
On one of the downpipes the bung seems to be offset a little from the pipe material, and I haven't checked it yet, but I'm worried it's going to interfere with the O2 sensor.
Offset a little more to the 11 o'clock position.
The other downpipe which appears to have the bung properly centered.
Installed based on recommendation, with the bungs facing out.
Installed the opposite way, just to see how it fit.
top view
With Pypes X-pipe. Needs about a 9" extension off of the Hooker downpipes to clear everything.
#71
I also had figured the alignment of the bung probably wouldn't matter, but I hadn't had a chance to check the clearance for it just yet.
#74
Man, I'm not sure how I was that far off on my driveshaft measurements.
j/k. This driveshaft is out of a 2010 Express Van, thanks to Stu and the folks over at JustChevyTrucks.com. Once the body is back down, I'll get it measured. I adjusted up the pinion angle, but need to get a finder on there to dial it in.
j/k. This driveshaft is out of a 2010 Express Van, thanks to Stu and the folks over at JustChevyTrucks.com. Once the body is back down, I'll get it measured. I adjusted up the pinion angle, but need to get a finder on there to dial it in.
#75
I got a bunch of work done this weekend including measuring for the driveshaft and modifying the fuel tank for the Tanks Inc. pickup. I used 2 -6 90* bulkead connectors and threaded in a -6 to NPT to the main pickup tube. The plan is to run 3/8" fuel line to both bulkhead fittings as they will be used to secure the EP381. The one with the inlet facing the same way as the black fitting will be the return which will dump right next to the pickup in the pump, the other, facing backwards will be used to rout the witlring to the pump. It'll be filled with a fuel resistant exact in all likelihood.
#77
Not at the moment. I was under there yesterday measuring for the driveshaft and thought about taking a couple of pictures. I did a hybrid trans pan using the 6L90 pan and a 6L80 pan. The oil pan hangs about an inch below the cross member though, which isn't too bad. I know some people have issues with this, but I'm not too worried about it although I'm trying to figure out whether or not to install the autokraft pan or sell it.
#78
Teching In
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
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pic of ground clearence
Any pictures showing ground clearence ( I'm guessing you are around 5 inches from trans pan to ground) would be great, also showing the relationship in clearence from headers etc. Thanks
#80
Interesting build. I am wondering what is exactly involved in making the trans fir into an A body. This is the first of heard of one of these transmissions being swapped into an A body car.