temperature gauge fix
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From: Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
temperature gauge fix I tried a search on how to fix my temp gauge to what HP Tuners says it reads. HP showed is was running at 192'f and my gauge ( 1993 GMC Typhoon) showed it was around 120-130'f. I remember reading on here that I would need a resistor or something to correct the gauge. Anybody have a link or a proper answer to help me out?
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Launching!
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From: Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
the original 93 temp fitting won't fit into the head, I was thinking of drilling it out bigger to use it. I am using the 3 wiring sending unit because it fits into the head. I thought there was a fix by putting in a resistor or something. Just can't find the post on it. A buddy said to put it into the water pump, but then if I ever have to replace the pump I would have to modify the new one. Not that they go out every day, just one more thing to do.
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From: Norn Iron
Using resistors on something like is never a good idea, as the resistance curve generally is not always linear. So it may be right somewhere, but wrong elsewhere.
Fitting it into the water pump would be the best option. It should be a simple case of drilling and tapping in most cases.
Fitting it into the water pump would be the best option. It should be a simple case of drilling and tapping in most cases.
I have a swapped 1994 S10. I drilled and tapped the passenger side head for the factory sending unit. It is close, but still not 100% accurate. I guess it is due to placement. I am thinking I am going to pull the needle, and make it 100% at normal operating temp. I don't want mine in the wp, just because of looks. JMO
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From: Norn Iron
OEM gauges are never accurate, they are always vague and slow to respond.
Both heads have a hole for the sender as heads are not sided left or right, so you could use the rear hole that's normally plugged on the rearmost ride side of the vehicle.
This would probably be a hot location too being furthest away from stat and water pump.
As long as you have a good consistent reading, you'll know of any changes which is what is important
Both heads have a hole for the sender as heads are not sided left or right, so you could use the rear hole that's normally plugged on the rearmost ride side of the vehicle.
This would probably be a hot location too being furthest away from stat and water pump.
As long as you have a good consistent reading, you'll know of any changes which is what is important
I looked at a couple options for the 1/2" NPT sensor used on my 68 vette.
I was concerned about drilling the head holes up to 1/2" NPT. Never know what you might hit.
Yeah, you can use a resistor and target the normal operating temp to be accurate (around 195). But as pointed out, the readings above and below may not be accurate. I posted readings for the 3 wire sensor here. You'll have to measure what the old sensor reads, correct with a resistor.
The best option I found was to drill, tap the brass drivers side block plug for 1/2" NPT.
I was concerned about drilling the head holes up to 1/2" NPT. Never know what you might hit.
Yeah, you can use a resistor and target the normal operating temp to be accurate (around 195). But as pointed out, the readings above and below may not be accurate. I posted readings for the 3 wire sensor here. You'll have to measure what the old sensor reads, correct with a resistor.
The best option I found was to drill, tap the brass drivers side block plug for 1/2" NPT.
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