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hey guys first post here just signed up. not a huge forum guy but I guess that's the way of the world now. I tried searching around for a little while for an answer to my problem with no real luck. so picked up a 91 notchback shell semi race car ready. it had a upr pushrod k frame in it with control arms and flaming river rack. picked up the upr 4.6 conversion motor mount kit. installed block for mock up as this will be a turbo build. the motor sat way to low. the crank was almost on the rack. so we were told that we needed a k frame for a modular motor. so I ordered a qa1 kframe. installed it last night and the motor is much higher but the back of the block is almost against the firewall. same motor mounts. im stuck and don't know what to do.
hey guys first post here just signed up. not a huge forum guy but I guess that's the way of the world now. I tried searching around for a little while for an answer to my problem with no real luck. so picked up a 91 notchback shell semi race car ready. it had a upr pushrod k frame in it with control arms and flaming river rack. picked up the upr 4.6 conversion motor mount kit. installed block for mock up as this will be a turbo build. the motor sat way to low. the crank was almost on the rack. so we were told that we needed a k frame for a modular motor. so I ordered a qa1 kframe. installed it last night and the motor is much higher but the back of the block is almost against the firewall. same motor mounts. im stuck and don't know what to do.
What you have just described is how it is. Mod motor mounts put the engine high in the chassis and don't work on the 5.0 k member. Fbody oil pans will force the motor sit high as well, otherwise it will have some clearance issues with the steering rack. Truck oil pans will fit nearly as well as an fbody pan but the sump hangs low. If the engine sits high it is hard to get a good driveline angle and get a decent transmission in the tunnel without hitting the tunnel. Getting the engine low enough can be a challenge because the oil pans will interfere with the steering rack. Lots of people slap it together and it works OK, but not always. Most people who think the whole 4.6L k member and mod motor mounts is simple and everything fits perfect haven't actually done a swap with a 4.6L k member, if they have even done a swap at all.
This is why lots of people buy the AJE kit. It actually appears to fit everything and companies make headers for it for drag race applications (99% of Mustangs are drag cars). If you want an open track or autocross Mustang with an LS engine, plan on building all your own parts.
I have the aje k memember for a 4.6 and used UPR LS1 swap mounts, only thing back about 11 years ago. Fits good, I use the f body pan and have no problems. I also have a 4l60e with quicktime bell housing and it clears. My block is very close to the firewall and had to use a hammer when I put the Fast intake, stock LS1 cleared. It was the back nipple on the intake that had clearance issue. Some guys will use shims between the k member and frame to gain clearance. They make kits for that. I at one time had a 3/4 spacer and no adverse effects.
I am using a QA1 K member and 4.6 mod mounts in a `94, which is very much the same as engine room dimensions as a Fox, the motor sits way back (good thing) and I added material to the mod mounts so they would bolt directly to the LS1 block and wouldn't have to use the UPR adaptors which make the motor sit 1/4" higher than you would want. Running a Edelbrock Pro flo and have lots of clearance under the hood. I also used some aluminum flat stock between the K member and body to give a bit more room for the T56 in the tunnel and didn't have to use and "hammers" to make it fit.
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