1964 Volvo 122 Amazon LS Swap

Subscribe
Jul 31, 2015 | 01:42 AM
  #21  
Any pics of the axle shortening process? Do you use a jig or?
Reply 0
Jul 31, 2015 | 08:50 AM
  #22  
Not sure that console will look right in that interior. Could pull it off with recovering it, or smoothing the plastic and painting it the same color as the dash.
Reply 0
Jul 31, 2015 | 03:14 PM
  #23  
Not sure if I will use the center console, but I spent 3 hours cutting out the trans tunnel so I def. plan on using it. The factory 122 tunnel is a joke.

Reply 0
Aug 1, 2015 | 07:41 AM
  #24  
Here is how to narrow a 8.8 the cheap safe and simplest way I have ever seen. There are 15 slides showing step by step how to do it using two short factory axles.


https://plus.google.com/app/basic/ph...rce%3Dappredir

And another.

http://www.v8s10.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=10989

Here is how to re drill the axles to chevy bolt pattern.

http://www.v8s10.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=24816
Reply 0
Aug 1, 2015 | 07:01 PM
  #25  
Yeah, I did it on my 245.

Early Volvo's such as the 122 have ford bolt pattern so converting to chevy would be counter productive in this case.

Anyway, didn't get as much done on the car spent most of the day adding breakers and outlets in the shop, but the motor/trans is out.

Reply 0
Aug 1, 2015 | 08:38 PM
  #26  
Aknovaman that is some real handy info . Those pics even made it look easy .
Reply 0
Aug 2, 2015 | 06:38 PM
  #27  
Thx, I prefer the sleeve inside for added strength. Hijack done. Carry on.
Reply 0
Aug 2, 2015 | 10:35 PM
  #28  
Did some minor trimming today. Getting ready to fit the motor/trans.


Reply 0
Aug 3, 2015 | 06:26 AM
  #29  
Minor? Seriously?
Reply 0
Aug 3, 2015 | 09:27 AM
  #30  
Yeah, just moving the inner 22" or so 7" back and reshaping the firewall for the transition. No biggie.

Motor would have fit without, but there wouldn't have been any room for a radiator.
Reply 0
Aug 3, 2015 | 05:08 PM
  #31  
And it's in. Sadly, there is no way I could have kept the stock pedals. The area that they mount in has to go. Looks like I'll be ordering a Wilwood setup.

Still need to make mounts and trim some areas, also I'm a bit concerned about exhaust as there is literally zero room for manifolds. Block huggers will even be a stretch.

Reply 0
Aug 3, 2015 | 08:10 PM
  #32  
Check out C6 LS2/3 exhaust manifolds, they tuck pretty tight.
Reply 0
Aug 4, 2015 | 11:23 AM
  #33  
I don't think you understand the clearances I'm working with lol. The Hooker block huggers MIGHT work, but it's looking like one off manifolds are in order.
Reply 0
Aug 4, 2015 | 01:06 PM
  #34  
I'll have to get a pic of weird drivers side exhaust. I believe you its tight. Really just depends on where you have room to come down. Or just go straight out the hood... lol
Reply 0
Aug 4, 2015 | 02:30 PM
  #35  
Sub'ing, loved your other car, looking forward to this one!
Reply 0
Aug 4, 2015 | 03:41 PM
  #36  
Awesome project!
Reply 0
Aug 4, 2015 | 07:09 PM
  #37  
Built the motor mounts today. They will be boxed in when finished.

So I ended up having to take way more firewall out than I originally intended. No turning back now though.


Reply 0
Aug 5, 2015 | 01:18 PM
  #38  
Mounts are tacked in. Need to burn them in, box and add gussets.

Reply 0
Aug 6, 2015 | 04:27 PM
  #39  
Keep up the good work....I always wanted to do this but those engine bays are stupid small as you are finding out.

On a side note, you should have pressure washed that bitch before you started cutting it up =)
Reply 0
Aug 6, 2015 | 07:20 PM
  #40  
I plan on rolling it out soon and doing just that. I need to pressure wash the entire shop anyway.

About to start on our new truck as well. It's a '64 shortbed fleet C10, big back window. Wish I would have bought it instead of mine, but since mine is already pretty much done I'll just have 2 lol.
Reply 0