Been reading a lot on the forums to help get this swap off to a good start instead of just diving into it.. Anyways I've taken in a lot of Information but still have a couple of questions that I couldn't find a definite awnser too.


Swap is going into a linked and long travel ranger that is still Cali "street legal" but is not even close to a Dailey driver but I like to option to be able to take it to wirk or drive it to the beach and back but dosent have to be completely kosher if you mop what I'm spilling.
Plan on sourcing a 2003-2006 lm7/4l60 harness,computers,pedal assembly and for clearance I'm going to be running an ls1 manifold and here is my first question..I know the whole intake/injectors/tb/rails swap but my hopes where to run the ls1 intake the lm7 dbw TB, lm7 injectors, lm7 fuel rails if it is even possible or if need be get some eBay special "billit" fuel rails to retain as much truck parts as possible to keep cost down

Plan on using a psi Stand alone harness so I can probably call and just let them know what injectors I have and tb for the harness for a bit more money

Next is the ilder/alternator locations I know I can buy the ilder pulley relocation plate from dirty dingo but do I still need to trim the alt braket or relocate the alternator?

Next is the water pump I know some people swap over the camaro water pump but I've read you can just give the stock outlet Some love taps to clear the TB? True? Again trying to keep cost down.

Last for now is the exhaust manifolds. What would be the tightest fitting oem manifold take offs that are rear exit?


I'm sorry if I've repeated some questions I have been searching the forums just need some clarification for a few items


My hopes are for a 400crank hp 5.3l hoping lifters/springs/cam/91oct tune/ and mabey some longtube/fender headers can get me there? Fuel mileage and low end power loss isn't a deal breaker the truck should weigh around 3300 lbs and be used in the sand/off road most of the time

 

Welcome to LS1tech!

I've moved you to here in the conversions section. You'll do better here.

Come on back to the internal engine section when you're building your engine.

 

Nobody knows if the truck fuel rails and injectors will swap to the ls1 intake manifold?

 

I have seen people use the truck rail and injectors on LS1/ls6 intakes, it just sits high off the intake, so you may still have to look out for hood clearance.

I gave some decent taps to my waterpump outlet and cut the little tab on the throttle body (I think its for cruise control?) in order to fit the ls1 intake. Some people say they can rotate the pump outlet. In either case, I developed a small coolant leak around the waterpump and outlet pipe. A little RTV fixed that. I also had to carefully bend the steam line for the intake to drop in.

I made my own tensioner and alternator mounts (no PS or AC), with the alt moved to the passenger side. The dirty dingo stuff seems to work for alot of people though.

 

Thanks for the reply do you know if it's the rails themselfs or the injectors that are taller for the truck parts?

 

A friend of mine found a complete 5.3l, tranny, harness, ecu from a 2009 Tahoe.
I believe this engine comes with cylinder deactivation and variable valve timing I'm sure I could just get the deactivation tuned out but I would be stuck with that cam and no option to upgrade to a different can later correct?

 

This would be a genIV engine. Yes, you can deactivate the VVT and you can change the cam to a better one.

 

Ok so I'm picking up the engine tommarrow so pretty much for sure I'm going to be using this motor for my swap unless something comes up that really can't get around since I got it so cheap. I checked psi's website and the harness is quite a bit more unfortunately for this engine but that's not a big deal. Now my question is will the ls1 intake bolt up this this it would I need a ls2 or ls3 I take manifold and what tb's will fit? I know I can figure this stuff out as I go but want to get all my ducks in a row or at least most of them I'm working 6 days a week so if I run into a problem like that I won't be able to work on it for another solid week each time I run into somehing

 

Yes, the LS1 intake will bolt up but out of all the intake manifolds, it's the worst performing. Go with a LS6 manifold or aftermarket cathedral port manifold. The truck manifold that comes on the 2009 should be the better performing TBSS manifold so if the height and looks work for you, you should consider using it.

I'm not as well versed in genIV as I am with genII so if anybody wants to jump in here....

 

Well that Tahoe motor/tranny was garbage ending finally sourcing a 2006 lm7/4l60e and got it all ready to drop in....new maf/plugs/wires have a psi standalone harness and it will fire but will not run I had the vats and emission stuff removed but is acting like vats is kicking in but not 100% sure I don't have oxygen sensors on it but as I understand until the sensors are warmed up the comp is in open loop anyways one reason I don't believe it's vats kicking in is because it will fire and without shutting the ignitin off and on again it will refire if I keep cranking but still only run for just a few cycles/1-2secs and die I don't have an exhaust on it and I'm sure it will be rich cranking but it seems very rich
I have tried disconnecting the maf and map wih no difference any ideas?

 

It will smell when you first fire it without exhaust on it until the computer learns the parameters. Mine smelled horrible. Make sure you have fuel pressure and had primed the system sufficiently. The engine should run with only the crank sensor connected, although not real well. Are you using the dbw setup from the same vehicle(tac module and peddle as a matched set)? Does the throttle blade move when the engine starts?

 

The tac and pedal is a matched set but both from a different vehical (Tahoe) but it moves as the ignition is turned on and I can move the pedal with the ignition on but not started...I'm glad you posted as people who have done LS in to rangers are far and few between other than full on pre runners I have your swap bookmarked lol

 

And yes I have the corvette filter/regulator at 58psi and I have a gauge in it stays 58psi constant as soon as I turn the pump on during cranking and what little running it will do

 

Did you double check you power to the harness and make sure you are hot during crank and run?

 

Yes the constant power leads are hooked directly to the batt and the ignition is too just with a switch

 

I bet Vats isn't disabled. Unless something is off with the wiring, but i doubt it. Since the harness is pretty much plug and play.

 

Yeah that's what in thinking because I checked the codes and I have one for evap and they supposidly disabled vats/and all my emmisions and evap stuff

 

I had Brendon at LT1swap.com flash mine. He turn everything off that I didn't need. When I got it back, I plugged it in and it fired up and ran. My engine is stock and he doesn't do custom tunes, but he's cheap and good. And you can use HP tuners to tune it as it isn't locked to him.

 

I'm about to head to the shop and have them look at again... See if they missed something

 

Don't quote me on this as I'm not a tuner, But I think I remember there being a VATS1 and VATS2 that need turned off.