68 Camaro 5.3 swap
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
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Easier, but less exciting and much more expensive.
Give us some details; transmission, mechanical or electric fan, price range
I'm doing a 5.3 swap in a 69 bird right now, and I'd be more than willing to give away some "top secret" hints and tips. I'll be able to give more as I'll be putting it all together within the next month or two.
Give us some details; transmission, mechanical or electric fan, price range
I'm doing a 5.3 swap in a 69 bird right now, and I'd be more than willing to give away some "top secret" hints and tips. I'll be able to give more as I'll be putting it all together within the next month or two.
I went through all the cheap routes trying an Fbody pan as they are cheap now a days.
I should have tried a V pan when I had one but I spent too much time on the Fbody pan.
When hooker came out with this kit, I said F it. Life was easier.
Also I only bought the plates & pan for an easy swap engine wise.
I should have tried a V pan when I had one but I spent too much time on the Fbody pan.
When hooker came out with this kit, I said F it. Life was easier.
Also I only bought the plates & pan for an easy swap engine wise.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,540
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I don"t see how ending up with a completed vehicle that has better ground and component clearances and U-joint operational angles wouldn't be more "exciting" than driving a swap vehicle that was put together with a collection of universal parts that were not designed in collaboration with one another to acheive any particular end result. The "expensive" description applied to Hooker components by some also perplexes me as you buy them once, install them quickly and move on to other tasks in the project; the majority of swaps I still see being carried out with universal parts go on for months with lots of components (especially headers) being purchased multiple times due to poor clearances or discoveries of non-combatibility, or being ground on or beat on to get them to fit. I think some guys enjoy working through it like a puzzle and solving issues as they come to them and I can't fault them for it if they like to partake in that adventure...but the end results are not cheaper or better if the car is judged by it's performance, functionality and reliability.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 149
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I think some guys enjoy working through it like a puzzle and solving issues as they come to them and I can't fault them for it if they like to partake in that adventure...but the end results are not cheaper or better if the car is judged by it's performance, functionality and reliability.
I made the adapter plates myself (I'll admit that I did have access to a milling machine) and I have to say I enjoyed it a lot. They were the 1" setback plates made from 1/4" steel. I will add that they put the passenger side cylinder head no more than 1/4" from the firewall. Had I used the hooker swap plates that put the engine further back I may have had problems, and would have been out $85. IMO any closer to the firewall would be too close for comfort.
I'll also be making my own tank baffle/bucket for the fuel pump; I just can't justify buying it when I know that I have the resources to do it myself. But to each his own; if you've got the money, but no time or tools then you might be better off buying what you need. Not sure if I agree with homemade stuff not performing as well though.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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Yes, I'm one of those guys. Not saying that it's 'wrong' to buy pre-made stuff for the swap, but I prefer to make things myself.
I made the adapter plates myself (I'll admit that I did have access to a milling machine) and I have to say I enjoyed it a lot. They were the 1" setback plates made from 1/4" steel. I will add that they put the passenger side cylinder head no more than 1/4" from the firewall. Had I used the hooker swap plates that put the engine further back I may have had problems, and would have been out $85. IMO any closer to the firewall would be too close for comfort.
I'll also be making my own tank baffle/bucket for the fuel pump; I just can't justify buying it when I know that I have the resources to do it myself. But to each his own; if you've got the money, but no time or tools then you might be better off buying what you need. Not sure if I agree with homemade stuff not performing as well though.
I made the adapter plates myself (I'll admit that I did have access to a milling machine) and I have to say I enjoyed it a lot. They were the 1" setback plates made from 1/4" steel. I will add that they put the passenger side cylinder head no more than 1/4" from the firewall. Had I used the hooker swap plates that put the engine further back I may have had problems, and would have been out $85. IMO any closer to the firewall would be too close for comfort.
I'll also be making my own tank baffle/bucket for the fuel pump; I just can't justify buying it when I know that I have the resources to do it myself. But to each his own; if you've got the money, but no time or tools then you might be better off buying what you need. Not sure if I agree with homemade stuff not performing as well though.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 149
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I will be using my existing tank, with the addition of a fuel bucket made myself, and a door cut into the top of the tank for easy installation.
I'm using a bosch 044 pump in conjunction with the fuel filter/sock for in-tank setup. It was pricey, but it was the only pump that I couldn't find anything bad on. Bosch makes an 040 pump that is designed for in-tank use, but from what I've read, it doesn't perform as well as the 044.
I'm using a bosch 044 pump in conjunction with the fuel filter/sock for in-tank setup. It was pricey, but it was the only pump that I couldn't find anything bad on. Bosch makes an 040 pump that is designed for in-tank use, but from what I've read, it doesn't perform as well as the 044.
Easier, but less exciting and much more expensive.
Give us some details; transmission, mechanical or electric fan, price range
I'm doing a 5.3 swap in a 69 bird right now, and I'd be more than willing to give away some "top secret" hints and tips. I'll be able to give more as I'll be putting it all together within the next month or two.
Give us some details; transmission, mechanical or electric fan, price range
I'm doing a 5.3 swap in a 69 bird right now, and I'd be more than willing to give away some "top secret" hints and tips. I'll be able to give more as I'll be putting it all together within the next month or two.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Agreed, I am in the same boat you are.
I also plan on doing a mild turbo setup someday (n/a for now) and many people say that the bosch 044 can support a healthy 600hp.
You could probably modify your existing crossmember for the th400, depending on where the engine sits. How far back/forward will it be compared to stock?
These may be applicable to your turbo build, check 'em out:
http://www.speed-engineering.com/fea...2-ls3-ls6.html
I have a set of their ls1 longtubes (VERY nice for the $$) that should fit in my '69 with some small modifications.
For motor mounts, I am using the Energy suspension 3.1114g motor mounts and some standard SBC frame mounts, they work great.
Depending on what type of adapter plate/mounting you use, you may need to lengthen your driveshaft. I put the engine in the stock location with 1" setback plates to avoid things like this and the crossmember.
I also plan on doing a mild turbo setup someday (n/a for now) and many people say that the bosch 044 can support a healthy 600hp.
You could probably modify your existing crossmember for the th400, depending on where the engine sits. How far back/forward will it be compared to stock?
These may be applicable to your turbo build, check 'em out:
http://www.speed-engineering.com/fea...2-ls3-ls6.html
I have a set of their ls1 longtubes (VERY nice for the $$) that should fit in my '69 with some small modifications.
For motor mounts, I am using the Energy suspension 3.1114g motor mounts and some standard SBC frame mounts, they work great.
Depending on what type of adapter plate/mounting you use, you may need to lengthen your driveshaft. I put the engine in the stock location with 1" setback plates to avoid things like this and the crossmember.
Greg what oil pan are you using?
How far is the pass head from the firewall?
Have you mocked those long tube headers up from speed engineering?
I was thinking of getting them also but I've heard you have to make me fit but they work.
Are these the ones you have?
http://www.speed-engineering.com/lsx...6-engines.html
How far is the pass head from the firewall?
Have you mocked those long tube headers up from speed engineering?
I was thinking of getting them also but I've heard you have to make me fit but they work.
Are these the ones you have?
http://www.speed-engineering.com/lsx...6-engines.html
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 149
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Greg what oil pan are you using?
How far is the pass head from the firewall?
Have you mocked those long tube headers up from speed engineering?
I was thinking of getting them also but I've heard you have to make me fit but they work.
Are these the ones you have?
http://www.speed-engineering.com/lsx...6-engines.html
How far is the pass head from the firewall?
Have you mocked those long tube headers up from speed engineering?
I was thinking of getting them also but I've heard you have to make me fit but they work.
Are these the ones you have?
http://www.speed-engineering.com/lsx...6-engines.html
I have not mocked up the headers yet. I will be doing it all next week. I did not buy their LSX swap headers; I got the 1 3/4" ones meant for the 98-02 Camaro/firebird because I am using the mechanical clutch linkage and that last tube on the driver's side isn't going to let it happen with the engine pushed so far back. It's all a big puzzle and there's only one way to make it fit
. 
I am one of the guys who tried to make the headers/mounts/pan work on my second gen before Holley came out with the swap kits. I really wished I would have spent the extra money and just bought a kit that worked. Something to be said about bolting on a kit for a swap that isn't very "bolt in" friendly.
Todd, I have searched on and off for a while but do you have any installation pictures on where to drill the holes for the new clamshell mounts on the 1st gen frames? Or if there is a good thread where someone has taken detailed pictures of the installation?
Todd, I have searched on and off for a while but do you have any installation pictures on where to drill the holes for the new clamshell mounts on the 1st gen frames? Or if there is a good thread where someone has taken detailed pictures of the installation?
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,540
Likes: 207
I am one of the guys who tried to make the headers/mounts/pan work on my second gen before Holley came out with the swap kits. I really wished I would have spent the extra money and just bought a kit that worked. Something to be said about bolting on a kit for a swap that isn't very "bolt in" friendly.
Todd, I have searched on and off for a while but do you have any installation pictures on where to drill the holes for the new clamshell mounts on the 1st gen frames? Or if there is a good thread where someone has taken detailed pictures of the installation?
Todd, I have searched on and off for a while but do you have any installation pictures on where to drill the holes for the new clamshell mounts on the 1st gen frames? Or if there is a good thread where someone has taken detailed pictures of the installation?
