When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For us American car guys, why do you guys into bmw's always say E34/34/38/42/51/56/99/007 as if that means anything to anyone else? I know what 318, 325 those kind of references mean. You're speaking code to the rest of us.
For us American car guys, why do you guys into bmw's always say E34/34/38/42/51/56/99/007 as if that means anything to anyone else? I know what 318, 325 those kind of references mean. You're speaking code to the rest of us.
The E36/ E39/ E38 etc is BMW's chassis designation. Think of it this way- a Fox Body, SN95, New Edge, etc Mustang or C3, C4, C5, C6, C7 Corvette. Same idea. The body parts and suspension are generally interchangeable (or upgraded from one to another). The BMW designation of the ///M car is the same idea as Cobra/ Z06, meaning high performance.
I am in the planning process of doing a swap on a BMW E32. Mechanically very similar to the E34, but larger. I recently purchased an LS2 and hope to start soon.
7 series is interesting, especially the long wheelbase cars as a grand tourer.
agreed on the 5 series wagons too....the couple i've seen done on here are gorgeous!
The E38 might be an easier or better swap. I believe the subframe from a 6-cyl E39 can be swapped, which takes the car from a bulky steering box - that incidentally sits right in the way of the driver's side header -to a rack and pinion steering. It also has a digital HVAC panel and some other upgrades over the E32. I plan on doing my E32 because I have one already, so I don't need to buy a car to swap. Mine happens to be a short wheel base
The E38 might be an easier or better swap. I believe the subframe from a 6-cyl E39 can be swapped, which takes the car from a bulky steering box - that incidentally sits right in the way of the driver's side header -to a rack and pinion steering. It also has a digital HVAC panel and some other upgrades over the E32. I plan on doing my E32 because I have one already, so I don't need to buy a car to swap. Mine happens to be a short wheel base
Holley manifolds supposedly fit around the stock steering box in the E39 V8. It's highly possible that they will work in the E38 as well. Careful engine placement will help as well.
A while back, I picked up a 7 Series (long wheel base) for this exact reason. I have always loved the lines of the car, and think a LS plant would be perfect as these cars handle well from the factory. I used an aluminum 6.2 in my last swap, and am thinking about the same thing for this one.
To make it easier, a guy on Bimmerforums.com makes a swap kit for the E39 that would work perfectly on the E38. Kit includes engine and transmission mounts (T56) and headers.
A while back, I picked up a 7 Series (long wheel base) for this exact reason. I have always loved the lines of the car, and think a LS plant would be perfect as these cars handle well from the factory. I used an aluminum 6.2 in my last swap, and am thinking about the same thing for this one.
-Nick
Awesome ride man. That's exactly the kind of thing I'm looking to do.
Is there some kind of can bus adapter to get the GM and BMW harnesses talking to each other?
I think that's my biggest fear about doing a swap into a BMW is all of the electronics. My current swap, LQ4 into 72 blazer is elementary in comparison.
Awesome ride man. That's exactly the kind of thing I'm looking to do.
Is there some kind of can bus adapter to get the GM and BMW harnesses talking to each other?
I think that's my biggest fear about doing a swap into a BMW is all of the electronics. My current swap, LQ4 into 72 blazer is elementary in comparison.
It's actually really simple. There are a handful of E39 cars running around (successfully swapped). The E38 and E39 are very similar. They share the same instrument cluster. You can buy software on eBay for ~30.00 that allows you to change the cluster settings to accept an analog signal instead of the canbus. The only thing that you loose is traction control. All the other systems will still function normally. :-)
It's actually really simple. There are a handful of E39 cars running around (successfully swapped). The E38 and E39 are very similar. They share the same instrument cluster. You can buy software on eBay for ~30.00 that allows you to change the cluster settings to accept an analog signal instead of the canbus. The only thing that you loose is traction control. All the other systems will still function normally. :-)
Ah, I was under the impression there was more involved electronically with the e38 than the E39. I'm going to have to start looking for a clean 2001 740il
Ah, I was under the impression there was more involved electronically with the e38 than the E39. I'm going to have to start looking for a clean 2001 740il
You have a valid point about the possibility of more electrical. I wouldn't worry about it though, the E38 and E39 share a great deal of the parts that are involved.
Just add the BMW oil, Water Temp sensors to the LS along with the GM sensors and find out the tach tooth setting and splice tach wires, that's how I got my Porsche gauges to work. remove the BMW check eng bulb.
Just add the BMW oil, Water Temp sensors to the LS along with the GM sensors and find out the tach tooth setting and splice tach wires, that's how I got my Porsche gauges to work. remove the BMW check eng bulb.
Even easier... BMW has idiot light for oil pressure (waste of time), hook up the wire from GM computer to check engine light. Might as well make it function.
On my Range Rover swap, I did the following to make all the OEM gauges, EAS, HVAC, etc all work.
Mounted a miniature reluctor wheel to the LS front pulley. This lets the Rover crank sensor do it's job. Tach, EAS, HVAC, etc all work from this one signal (it knows the engine is running).
Made a manifold to mount the Rover temp sensors into, so the stock gauge works.
CEL fed from the Ls ECM (both switched ground)
Speedo is still fed from the original VSS on the Rover transfer case.
LS got programmed to the correct PPM to make the 4L60E work, after being tied into the Rover VSS.
When you break it down into small steps, it's all doable.
I looked at a 740iL for my youngest kid, but it was too far gone, even for the $400 asking price.
01-03-2016, 12:48 AM
