New crate LS3 in 82 Volvo
New crate LS3 in 82 Volvo Gathering parts for the swap - car had a 5.0L Ford in it for 19 years before this. Ordered the drive-by-wire throttle pedal recommended by GM - #809-10379038. The description from Jeg's says "accelerator pedal Cadillac". I'll probably mod the plastic pedal for a better angle to set it up for heel/toe. However, I notice that there is very little travel on this thing --- not even half the travel of a cable/throttle body pedal set up. Anyone used this? Are they all (other vehicles) that travel limited? Thanks - Michael
Some of them are, and some not. I have both a non-adjustable and adjustable variant Gen3 Trailblazer pedal, and the non-adjustable version is pretty stiff and has a throw of like 20*; the adjustable one has a swing more like a 240 pedal (but is gigantic, and could only be used in a 240 if you dropped the heater hoses).
Heater hoses already dropped -- disposed of entirely Volvo HVAC (the AC has always been useless in the south) and installed a Classic Auto Air system as part of the engine swap. So heater and A/C hoses are all on the passenger side. I don't mind minimal travel -- just looking for some assurances that you get used to it and that drivability doesn't suffer. I've also read about problems with Gen III pedals used with a Gen IV ECU....haven't crossed that bridge yet. Thanks for the reply -- this site not nearly as responsive as the Mustang sites I'm used to...
The 03/04 TB motor I've got is Gen 3, but the pedal uses a Gen 4 connector, so I'm not sure what it actually is - some kind of odd transition year, maybe. The '05+ look the same, but are Gen 4, and have different part numbers. I'm sure there's better options out there, those are just the two I've test-fit on my own car 
. Pedal position for the "adjustable" variant is about right with the top of the pedal in the heater hoses, don't think there was any other interference. I'll sell ya the adjustable '04 one for a token and shipping, or trade for your old Boss 302 Clone exhaust 
Non-adjustable:
Adjustable:
. Pedal position for the "adjustable" variant is about right with the top of the pedal in the heater hoses, don't think there was any other interference. I'll sell ya the adjustable '04 one for a token and shipping, or trade for your old Boss 302 Clone exhaust Non-adjustable:
Adjustable:
Last edited by vertigosity; Dec 30, 2015 at 03:29 PM.
The plastic 'rheostat bit' on the top one (non-adjustable) looks very much like mine but without the sheet metal mounting bracket around the plastic and the pedal/arm is quite different. If I mimic the angle of the Volvo pedal it looks to me like it will take a few spacers (spaced away from the firewall a bit) to put the new pedal in the same position as the Volvo pedal was. Took careful measurements before removing -- brake and gas pedal were perfect for heel/toe and I don't want to lose that. And it looks like I'll have to drill a hole in the metal arm to allow the pedal angle to be a bit less acute -- but I don't think that will be a problem. So, for now at least, I want to stick with this brand new one I just bought.
I appreciate the offer - but the Boss 302/429 muffler on mine went to an LS-swap turbobricker down in GA right after I put the dual Coyote mufflers on mine. The Coyote mufflers are a really sweet set up that flow MUCH better than the old Boss 302 muffler AND are quieter (old guy = want it quieter) if you can do a bit of welding. Don't know if he used it or not. I set mine up with the dual Coyote mufflers with the LS3's power output in mind. You can buy that reproduction muffler new through the Mustang restoration shops for $60-$70 --- or at least that's what it cost 10-12 years ago. Reckon it might've gone up since then.
Holley oil pan came in today along with the pedal. So I can swap pans and start setting up my flywheel/pilot bearing/bell to measure runout. Hope I get lucky there and don't require offset dowels.
Thanks for helping me think it through.
I appreciate the offer - but the Boss 302/429 muffler on mine went to an LS-swap turbobricker down in GA right after I put the dual Coyote mufflers on mine. The Coyote mufflers are a really sweet set up that flow MUCH better than the old Boss 302 muffler AND are quieter (old guy = want it quieter) if you can do a bit of welding. Don't know if he used it or not. I set mine up with the dual Coyote mufflers with the LS3's power output in mind. You can buy that reproduction muffler new through the Mustang restoration shops for $60-$70 --- or at least that's what it cost 10-12 years ago. Reckon it might've gone up since then.
Holley oil pan came in today along with the pedal. So I can swap pans and start setting up my flywheel/pilot bearing/bell to measure runout. Hope I get lucky there and don't require offset dowels.
Thanks for helping me think it through.
Last edited by Michael Yount; Dec 30, 2015 at 04:19 PM.
Yeah, the Gen 4 pedal the E-rod kits provide looks like a pretty good fit for a 240, and there's nothing like it for Gen 3 DBW setups AFAIK - closest thing is to cut up a truck pedal. I only stuck with my Trailblazer stuff since I already had the TAC and harness for it, just need to drill some holes in the pedal box and fab a angle bracket for the other side.
I'm hilariously close on my "next to do" list - got a TKO, need to dial-indicate my 621-repro bell. Dunno if it's my shell or my block, but 77volvo245's mounts have the Holley cast manifolds in the steering column (Coleman Racing'ed that out) and my T56's turret overlapped the back of the tunnel by >1/2". Need to trade the T56 for 10 240 shells... Turbobricks baller status!
Was joking about the exhaust, I just keep seeing pictures of it; figured it went to somebody a long time ago, heh. Got an LT1 F-body cat and the 3" cat-back from a previous 16VT setup, I figure I can bash together something sub-optimal from that :p
I'm hilariously close on my "next to do" list - got a TKO, need to dial-indicate my 621-repro bell. Dunno if it's my shell or my block, but 77volvo245's mounts have the Holley cast manifolds in the steering column (Coleman Racing'ed that out) and my T56's turret overlapped the back of the tunnel by >1/2". Need to trade the T56 for 10 240 shells... Turbobricks baller status!
Was joking about the exhaust, I just keep seeing pictures of it; figured it went to somebody a long time ago, heh. Got an LT1 F-body cat and the 3" cat-back from a previous 16VT setup, I figure I can bash together something sub-optimal from that :p
The Holley oil pan came with the pedal -- getting it on will allow me to install the flywheel/pilot/bell do I can measure runout. Special bolts for the clutch I picked - but only $13 from ARP, those are on the way. I'm going to fab my own mounts -- pretty easy to do. I never could get any good answers from the guys on TB who were selling them about precisely where they placed the motor - fore/aft, side-to-side or height-wise. This way I can put it where I want it. I don't think the factory cast manifolds that came on the motor will work - they're the Camaro mani's and they're going to be into the frame rail at the back I'm pretty sure. A shame as they're really nice pieces. I'm hopeful manifolds for the C6 Corvette will work -- and if the steering shaft is the only impediment, I'm prepared to alter the u-joints and move the shaft over for clearance. Another possibility is moving the engine towards the passenger side to gain a bit more clearance. I measured the 5.0L when I took it out and it seems that Converse offset the motors 1/2" away from the steering shaft to help with that -- 29" between the frame rails and the centerline of the motor was 15" from the driver's side and 14" from the passenger side.
I'm also cleaning up the compartment, welding up a bunch of holes, repainting, etc. I'm sure I'll have the motor in/out 20 times trying to nail things down. And I've decided to come up with an external VSS (17 teeth welded to the tranny driveshaft yoke) so I can use a Dakota Digital cruise control with the electronic throttle. Kept looking for a way around that, but there just aren't any suitable alternatives. I'd have preferred a throttle cable -- but with factory ECU that means going back to 24x which I don't want to do.
I'm also cleaning up the compartment, welding up a bunch of holes, repainting, etc. I'm sure I'll have the motor in/out 20 times trying to nail things down. And I've decided to come up with an external VSS (17 teeth welded to the tranny driveshaft yoke) so I can use a Dakota Digital cruise control with the electronic throttle. Kept looking for a way around that, but there just aren't any suitable alternatives. I'd have preferred a throttle cable -- but with factory ECU that means going back to 24x which I don't want to do.
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LOL - yeah, the muffler was about 12 years old and the packing had burned out. Sounded great -- but too loud for me. Because of the age, I gave it away for just shipping costs. Hopefully he was able to use it.
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I like using the Impala SS pedal for swaps.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=500&jpid=4
Andrew
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=500&jpid=4
Andrew
Here are some pics from the Cougar install:
Andrew
Andrew
