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Ls swapped firebird won't start!!!!!!!

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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 08:43 PM
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Default Ls swapped firebird won't start!!!!!!!

So I've been pulling my hair out over this for what feels like an eternity, I have a 98 firebird that I'm swapping out the 3.8 for a 5.3. I have everything put together with stock ls1 accessories, except for coil packs and they are truck coil packs. Every time I try to start it will crank but the coil packs aren't firing, and for the life of me I can't figure out why. Any suggestions or reply's will be greatly appreciated, I am at my wits end with this car....
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Old Jan 29, 2016 | 09:05 PM
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VATS been programmed out? Getting power to them? Checked your grounds?
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Old Feb 29, 2016 | 11:35 PM
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Did you get this one solved? If it's not the above, perhaps confirm that the computer is getting power on during both the key "on" position as well as the key "Start" position. I had this trouble with my LS swap- computer was getting power with the key "on" but not "start". once I fixed this the car started right up.

Hope this helps
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1nova71
VATS been programmed out? Getting power to them? Checked your grounds?
All grounds are good, checked and cleaned all I could get to, don't THINK it's vats. Me security light goes off after a couple seconds of turning the ignition on.
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Old Mar 31, 2016 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tuske427
Did you get this one solved? If it's not the above, perhaps confirm that the computer is getting power on during both the key "on" position as well as the key "Start" position. I had this trouble with my LS swap- computer was getting power with the key "on" but not "start". once I fixed this the car started right up.

Hope this helps
Nope still going at it. How do you test/fix it? That could also be the reason it won't connect to my obd2 reader.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Masnart197
Nope still going at it. How do you test/fix it?
Test light? Study the wiring diagram and back probe the proper wires that need power at the computer. Very simple test.
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 05:59 PM
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If you do determine it's not an electrical problem make sure the injectors aren't clogged. I read that used engines that sit more than 6-8 months have a tendency to clog the injectors. Is it sputtering or acting like it's getting any spark?
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MurphyTex
If you do determine it's not an electrical problem make sure the injectors aren't clogged. I read that used engines that sit more than 6-8 months have a tendency to clog the injectors. Is it sputtering or acting like it's getting any spark?
No, no sputter or anything just cranks and cranks. But it could be clogged injectors, when I pulled the plugs to test if it was firing some were more flooded than others
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 04:30 PM
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I basically didn't know anything about ls swaps when I started this project. I bought a motor, k member, a 99 harness and computer. And a couple other things from some one. Once I got every thing out together and didn't start I did some research and came to the conclusion that it was the vats. So I had them tuned out and still nothing. Then I found out that since my car was a 98 I would also need a harness, computer, and a gauge cluster out of a 98. So got all that and installed them in my car and nothing. So here's where it gets weird. I tried connecting to the obd2 with a scan tool and it won't connect, so that leads me to a computer or wiring issue. So I cleaned up all the grounds. Checked all the fuses nothing loose on the battery. So I thought my computer was fried and got a new one and installed it and it still won't connect. So out of curiosity I put the 99 one in and it connected. Which is weird because i have all 98 stuff on it so it shouldn't connect. But since it did it tells me that there isn't a issue with wiring or what not. It just won't connect to the 98 cpu. And I have know idea about how to fix this. Hopefully someone. An point me in the right direction as I am at a dead end.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 04:14 PM
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Okay so long story short it turned out to be a bad fuse that I somehow missed when I did my routine diagnosis, but now only half of my injectors are firing. I believe it is due to the missing pin in my fuse box that goes to the "inj 2" has anyone dealt with this before? I'm not sure how to go about installing one so any feed back would be greatly appreciated.
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