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Looks great! I just finished my 5.3 supercharged build in my 87 firebird, I also run a ford 8.8 with a tq arm mount I built.
I would like more info on the HPTuners codes stuff. I'm using HP tuners pro and when I converted to SD, 2 bar, custom OS I didn't change anything for it to run. Besides disabling the MAF, and VATs. In the process of tuning now and trying to figure out a cold start issue, I verified it's not getting enough fuel on crank/initial start and takes a few cranks before turning over.
Hoping my issue isnt something your referring too. Care to explain more in depth? Also how you changed it to work?
Quick update..finally got the axle in the car and on the road. I had to completely rework my torque arm mount at the diff to shift it closer to the driveshaft so it wouldn't hit the tunnel at full suspension travel.
I'm now breaking in the gears, so can't drive the car too hard for another few hundred miles..not so easy!
Wow, haven't updated for a year..
I drove the car for all of last summer, then decided I needed to check the driveline angles due to a vibration. Not sure if the new axle made the angles worse or not, but they were a little over 4deg which is way too much. You want them under 2deg.
I ended up re-working the trans cross member to raise the trans about 1.5" into the tunnel. The top of the trans is about 1/4" from the tunnel now and the angles are 1.5deg front and set to 0.9deg rear..so much better!
This all of course took longer than anticipated. I also welded nuts to the inside of the front subframe by cutting holes in the floor to fix the stripped out crap factory ones. Also had to rework the y-pipe as the engine tilted up a bit.
Last edited by 6speediroc; 07-21-2017 at 10:01 AM.
I decided to replace the carpet while I'm at it and add sound deadener. Found a few soft spots in the floors, same on both sides of the car only where there was a second plate under the floor pan, like at the front of the rear control arm mounts.
The flash rust seen is while treating for KBS rust paint (like POR15).
I ended up using Raam Audio sound deadening materials. I used 2x [Package#1 = 20 Sheets of RAAMmat BXT II (37.5 sq ft) and 3 yards of Ensolite IUO Peel and Stick Foam (41.625 sq ft)] so 75sqft RAAMmat & 82sqft Ensolite Foam. I went to town on the stuff and actually ran out so don't have enough to do the doors. http://www.raamaudio.com/categories/...Foam-Products/
I'll post up how well it works. The panels in the rear of these cars are like drums. Should make a big difference.
I also ran both positive and negative 2/0 gauge welding cable to relocate the battery to the drivers rear side for the turbo. The wiring runs down the inside passenger side and right beside the PCM bundle that passes through the fender. I decided to install metal braid covering that is grounded to the frame to prevent any interference that *may* get created and mess with engine sensor signals to the PCM. It would be a bitch to trace something like that. I must have been about 40lbs of cable.
The carpet is laid in the car, but needs to get trimmed and all the holes cut out. It'll be ready to drive again for the summer after that.
Maybe turbo this winter?
Last edited by 6speediroc; 07-21-2017 at 10:05 AM.
Ls turbo with A/C?? I'm all ears! Been putting off going turbo with my car because all ebay kits delete A/C. Btw that y pipe looks sick. I wish my swap had that much ground clearence.
I haven't found a good battery hold down setup yet. I plan to go to the up-pull yard this week and want one like the one in the front of the car..metal tray I can weld in with the hold down from the bottom. If not I'll fab something up. I'll post pics of the wiring route and the tray soon.
Ya, I took my time on the ypipe so it would tuck up nicely. The flat part under the bellhousing is from a stock LS1 2002 firebird. Also used the flex on one side from a stock k ypipe.
Nice work man. I plan on putting A/C back into my turbo IROC this winter. It's going to be really tight though. I may end up doing a Vintage Air set-up. Good luck with your project.
Great build, and I really like your attention to detail. I will keep following along with this as I have a similar goal with my 68. Get it up and running with the motor/trans I have and then build my turbo system.
I picked up a battery tray from a 78-83 Malibu (also fits others), Goodmark #4035-300-78 from Summit for $35. It will work nicely in the rear drivers side hatch. It uses the stock F-body battery hold-down plastic thing and bolt and will be nice and clean.
Finally got the battery tray installed. I had to reduce the width of the Malibu tray about an inch each side to fit. I have it bolted at the back corner to the inner fender and through the floor at 2 places.
The battery has 2 vent ports built right in that the tubes connect (push) on to. The battery is a standard one, nothing special. I used silicone tubing I had on hand.
Interesting. I wonder if my autrocraft gold battery had the ports.
Looking at yours I think the firebirds might be different. I have a tray sorta like that but I would want to put it on he pass side spare tire so I found a $28 fabbed tray frame
Mount. I'll weld some tables on to bolt it down and be done.
What size cables are you running? I'm thinking of 1/0 pure copper. Thought about 2/0 but I think it's max rating is 200 amps at 20ft.
Very Cool Build. My buddy drove a 1984 Z28 in High School. (it was his dad's) His dad sold it after his 3rd wreck. Graduated in 1987, so was fairly new. I loved that car, he never let me drive it though...
05-02-2016, 11:38 PM
