Speed Engineering A Body LS headers
My magnet sticks to the flange and the bung pretty hard, and I have worked with enough stainless to know the difference. Cutting, welding, and machining. The primarytubes must be grade 304 stainless
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,540
Likes: 207
Yes Todd, plated steel is my guess on the flanges. Not a deal breaker for me.
On to my update. Here is some pics of the headers installed with the frame mounts I fabbed up. First pic is the pair of mounts.
Passenger side header has about 1/8 - 3/16 clearance to the frame. I did not need to dimple this set of headers on any of the tubes.
The last 2 pics show the ground clearance, which I am satisfied with, and the oil pan to crossmember clearance.
I'm not using the factory brake proportioning valve, but it looks like it wouldn't be a problem if it was there. You can see the original brake line in one of the pics that goes to the rear. When I removed the valve I left the line hanging. This will be removed when I make new lines. I'm using a truck oil pan that had the bottom shortened up to fit a different chassis. I Wil need to modify the pan for clearance with the tie rod ends.
I thought about buying the Holley oil pan for this car but it will only take me 2 or 3 hours to modify this one so that's the rout I'm taking
On to my update. Here is some pics of the headers installed with the frame mounts I fabbed up. First pic is the pair of mounts.
Passenger side header has about 1/8 - 3/16 clearance to the frame. I did not need to dimple this set of headers on any of the tubes.
The last 2 pics show the ground clearance, which I am satisfied with, and the oil pan to crossmember clearance.
I'm not using the factory brake proportioning valve, but it looks like it wouldn't be a problem if it was there. You can see the original brake line in one of the pics that goes to the rear. When I removed the valve I left the line hanging. This will be removed when I make new lines. I'm using a truck oil pan that had the bottom shortened up to fit a different chassis. I Wil need to modify the pan for clearance with the tie rod ends.
I thought about buying the Holley oil pan for this car but it will only take me 2 or 3 hours to modify this one so that's the rout I'm taking
Banned
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,540
Likes: 207
Yes Todd, plated steel is my guess on the flanges. Not a deal breaker for me.
On to my update. Here is some pics of the headers installed with the frame mounts I fabbed up. First pic is the pair of mounts.
Passenger side header has about 1/8 - 3/16 clearance to the frame. I did not need to dimple this set of headers on any of the tubes.
The last 2 pics show the ground clearance, which I am satisfied with, and the oil pan to crossmember clearance.
I'm not using the factory brake proportioning valve, but it looks like it wouldn't be a problem if it was there. You can see the original brake line in one of the pics that goes to the rear. When I removed the valve I left the line hanging. This will be removed when I make new lines. I'm using a truck oil pan that had the bottom shortened up to fit a different chassis. I Wil need to modify the pan for clearance with the tie rod ends.
I thought about buying the Holley oil pan for this car but it will only take me 2 or 3 hours to modify this one so that's the rout I'm taking
On to my update. Here is some pics of the headers installed with the frame mounts I fabbed up. First pic is the pair of mounts.
Passenger side header has about 1/8 - 3/16 clearance to the frame. I did not need to dimple this set of headers on any of the tubes.
The last 2 pics show the ground clearance, which I am satisfied with, and the oil pan to crossmember clearance.
I'm not using the factory brake proportioning valve, but it looks like it wouldn't be a problem if it was there. You can see the original brake line in one of the pics that goes to the rear. When I removed the valve I left the line hanging. This will be removed when I make new lines. I'm using a truck oil pan that had the bottom shortened up to fit a different chassis. I Wil need to modify the pan for clearance with the tie rod ends.
I thought about buying the Holley oil pan for this car but it will only take me 2 or 3 hours to modify this one so that's the rout I'm taking
Yep you are correct, I just checked a set on the shelf and the magnet does indeed pull hard, The Stainless works set sitting on the shelf don't pull at all.
I've yet to install mine in my 1977 Pontiac Can Am. I've been trying to keep the car assembled for the Power Tour in a month or so. All the pics you guys have posted look great! They still look like WIN to me!
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I am in the process of installing these in my 68 cutlass. I am using the lsx inovations motor mounts that move my lq4/4l80e forward one inch...
I had to notch the cross member under the motor slightly on both sides to clear...not much no big deal in my situation. I also had to cut part of the bellhousing inspection cover around the starter to clear...again no big deal.
The only complaint i really have is that there was an interference with a boss on the block just below the driverside head right at the back of the motor. I just took a grider to it and clearanced the corner of it.
There appears to be plenty of room for the brake proportioning valve on the driverside frame rail. Ground clearance looks good, its just a little bit lower than the motor cosmember. Steering shaft does not seem to be an issue.
For $300 shipped they appear at this point to be worth it to me....i dont have the body on yet but i dont for see any issues.
If the motor was not moved forward i think the cross member would have been fine...i also dont think the 4l60 will have the inteference issue
I had to notch the cross member under the motor slightly on both sides to clear...not much no big deal in my situation. I also had to cut part of the bellhousing inspection cover around the starter to clear...again no big deal.
The only complaint i really have is that there was an interference with a boss on the block just below the driverside head right at the back of the motor. I just took a grider to it and clearanced the corner of it.
There appears to be plenty of room for the brake proportioning valve on the driverside frame rail. Ground clearance looks good, its just a little bit lower than the motor cosmember. Steering shaft does not seem to be an issue.
For $300 shipped they appear at this point to be worth it to me....i dont have the body on yet but i dont for see any issues.
If the motor was not moved forward i think the cross member would have been fine...i also dont think the 4l60 will have the inteference issue
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Headers are decent for the money. I ended up having the massage the the driverside exhaust since its held in so tight to the trans i has shifter linkage interference.
I would buy them again.
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On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 184
Likes: 17
From: napanoch ny
i have the speed engineering a body longtube 1 3/4'' headers, on my 69 chevelle. 5.3 lm7 muncie 4 speed.
im using lsx innovations motor mount plates in the stock sbc location. the headers fit great very happy with them. the only issue was i had to modify the floor pan on the passenger side for the o2 sensor to fit without hitting the floor.
im running a z bar for my clutch which is not hooked up yet, and that looks like it might be a little tight, but workable. i should have that figured out this week.
im using lsx innovations motor mount plates in the stock sbc location. the headers fit great very happy with them. the only issue was i had to modify the floor pan on the passenger side for the o2 sensor to fit without hitting the floor.
im running a z bar for my clutch which is not hooked up yet, and that looks like it might be a little tight, but workable. i should have that figured out this week.
Put a set on a 1966 Chevelle. With the LS1 sitting in the factory bellhousing location we had to put some dents in them to fit without hitting, but for the price they are a great header and I will use them again and again.
Which mounts and frame stands did you use? Curious about these headers and using the trans dapt 4592 swap mounts in my '65 skylark
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 184
Likes: 17
From: napanoch ny
heres a few pictures of the speed engineering headers on my setup. 69 chevelle lm7 4 speed muncie.
lsx innovation mount plates part # al11 in the stock sbc location. holley 302-2 oil pan. homemade clutch pivot ball stud bracket for the z bar. the adjustment rod for the clutch fork just barely touches one of the pipes, but i have a nut on the outside of the rod, so i might mess with that, before i dent the pipe.
lsx innovation mount plates part # al11 in the stock sbc location. holley 302-2 oil pan. homemade clutch pivot ball stud bracket for the z bar. the adjustment rod for the clutch fork just barely touches one of the pipes, but i have a nut on the outside of the rod, so i might mess with that, before i dent the pipe.
I just put these in my car since I found some locally and Hooker pieces wouldn't get here before I move. With the engine slid back pretty far (say 1" between passenger head and firewall) they clear everything with both Hooker and Dirty Dingo slider engine mounts. They fit better with the DD mounts since they are a bit taller, but still clear everything - barely in places - with the Hooker ones. I was very surprised with how well everything came together, especially for what they cost. They do hang low however so I'm still going to get the Hooker ones eventually.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,645
Likes: 526
A bit off topic but I purchased a set of Speed Engineering long tube headers for my 68 C10 LS swap. Fit was right on.
Area for improvement on the header design is on the exit on the tube from the head flange. Needs a bit more or longer radius for best flow. Plenty of room on the C10 chassis for more length.
I'm using band clamps at the collector to the exhaust pipe.
Area for improvement on the header design is on the exit on the tube from the head flange. Needs a bit more or longer radius for best flow. Plenty of room on the C10 chassis for more length.
I'm using band clamps at the collector to the exhaust pipe.
As anyone used the Speed Engineering headers with the Hooker forward bias engine mounts Part# 71221008HKR on an early GM A body and if so did you run into any problems? I have a 65 Cutlass 6.0L and 4L80 that I am trying to find some headers for. I really like the Hooker headers but if I can use these Speed Engineering headers with the engine mounts I got and save some money then that would be nice. Thanks for all of the help
I just put these in my car since I found some locally and Hooker pieces wouldn't get here before I move. With the engine slid back pretty far (say 1" between passenger head and firewall) they clear everything with both Hooker and Dirty Dingo slider engine mounts. They fit better with the DD mounts since they are a bit taller, but still clear everything - barely in places - with the Hooker ones. I was very surprised with how well everything came together, especially for what they cost. They do hang low however so I'm still going to get the Hooker ones eventually.
As anyone used the Speed Engineering headers with the Hooker forward bias engine mounts Part# 71221008HKR on an early GM A body and if so did you run into any problems? I
Chuck,
Thanks for the info. The reason I went with the forward bias mounts is because I am using a 4L80 trans with my 6.0L and Holley's instructions say that I wouldn't have to do much/if any mods to the trans tunnel.
The price for these headers can't be beat but if they won't work on my setup I guess I will have to purchase the Holley headers.
Thanks for the info. The reason I went with the forward bias mounts is because I am using a 4L80 trans with my 6.0L and Holley's instructions say that I wouldn't have to do much/if any mods to the trans tunnel.
The price for these headers can't be beat but if they won't work on my setup I guess I will have to purchase the Holley headers.