Speed Engineering A Body LS headers
Speed Engineering A Body LS headers Has anyone ever tried Speed Engineering LS headers for the A body? I was curious how they fit? Also what position is the engine in for these headers to work?
Did you get the 1 3/4" ones?
If you could take some pictures of how they fit, that would be very helpful. Also did you use engine plates with the SBC mounts for your LS? If so what position did you install your engine? I can't remember if i put it in 1" back or 1" forward... been to long.
If you could take some pictures of how they fit, that would be very helpful. Also did you use engine plates with the SBC mounts for your LS? If so what position did you install your engine? I can't remember if i put it in 1" back or 1" forward... been to long.
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 106
Likes: 3
From: Omaha, NE
Wish they had these when i was building. I had originally purchased their 1 7/8" "race" version f body headers for my a body swap. The drivers manifold dropped too steeply and #1 tube contacted the crossmember. I might have been able to make them work if i was willing to cut my tunnel to allow the engine to move back further, but i only have an inch between the passenger head and firewall as it is. They were great looking headers, and the quality was way better than i expected for the money, just didnt fit. The pictures look like the drivers header will be far more cooperative than trying to use the f-body ones. I ended up with doug's, and they are awesome, though a lot more $ and little tight to the floor.
Last edited by Ach1992880; Feb 19, 2016 at 09:52 AM.
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Verdad Gallardo These are the 1 3/4 inch tubes. I used the dirty dingo slider mounts and they are all the way towards the rear which is like .75 inch back from stock. The guy I talked to said they should fit with that setup.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Hoping these will work on a 70 Chevelle with the new Hooker low and forward mounts ,picked up a 2004 Savana 3500 bout a week ago , Hooker mounts seem to be the only option to ensure good driveline angles with a LSx/4l80e swap into an A body .. that $1100 header price tho , ouch !
Hoping these will work on a 70 Chevelle with the new Hooker low and forward mounts ,picked up a 2004 Savana 3500 bout a week ago , Hooker mounts seem to be the only option to ensure good driveline angles with a LSx/4l80e swap into an A body .. that $1100 header price tho , ouch !
Andrew
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
I'm going to use some Fbody manifolds until those mild steel hookers come out in a couple months , makes the most sense to me .
i am running the 4th gen manifolds now and have a hooker set on order. i would rather spend the money now for a set i know are going to fit and last then spend time and money trying to find out. my camaro has there parts on it and they fit perfect so i know the chevelle parts will fit and thats one last thing to have to fight with. i would save up. buy once cry once.
Did you get a chance to install these headers? How did they fit? I was wondering if they have clearance with the proportioning valve on the frame for the driver side header. Seems like that is a tight spot there.
I know they have had very good results with the F-body headers and they sold a crap load of 1st gen Camaro headers on E-bay and the same headers fit a Nova and My son inlaw is happy with the set he bought. I would give it a shot. I just wish they made them for my S-10, I spent over $900 for Stainless Works headers and they don't look as nice as the Speed Engineering headers.
I just picked up a set of these in the 1 7/8 version they look good, the primary and collector tubes are stainless but the flange and o2 bung are mild steel. Putting this in a 67 A body (lemans). Fit is ok for the price, I had to trim the rear lower control arm mount on the drivers side. I tried positioning the engine forward, back, left and right and there was no way around the trimming. By the way I'm making my own frame stands so I could place the engine where I wanted it. When I get the frame stands back in and engine mounted I will take some more pics for you guys.
Why did I buy these? A friend spent a thousand dollars on a set of Kooks stainless headers and they fit like garbage. Calling them was no help at all. They wouldn't even let him send them back. So after that ordeal I thought these headers for under 300 bucks was a safe gamble
Why did I buy these? A friend spent a thousand dollars on a set of Kooks stainless headers and they fit like garbage. Calling them was no help at all. They wouldn't even let him send them back. So after that ordeal I thought these headers for under 300 bucks was a safe gamble
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
I am in the process of installing these in my 68 cutlass. I am using the lsx inovations motor mounts that move my lq4/4l80e forward one inch...
I had to notch the cross member under the motor slightly on both sides to clear...not much no big deal in my situation. I also had to cut part of the bellhousing inspection cover around the starter to clear...again no big deal.
The only complaint i really have is that there was an interference with a boss on the block just below the driverside head right at the back of the motor. I just took a grider to it and clearanced the corner of it.
There appears to be plenty of room for the brake proportioning valve on the driverside frame rail. Ground clearance looks good, its just a little bit lower than the motor cosmember. Steering shaft does not seem to be an issue.
For $300 shipped they appear at this point to be worth it to me....i dont have the body on yet but i dont for see any issues.
If the motor was not moved forward i think the cross member would have been fine...i also dont think the 4l60 will have the inteference issue
I had to notch the cross member under the motor slightly on both sides to clear...not much no big deal in my situation. I also had to cut part of the bellhousing inspection cover around the starter to clear...again no big deal.
The only complaint i really have is that there was an interference with a boss on the block just below the driverside head right at the back of the motor. I just took a grider to it and clearanced the corner of it.
There appears to be plenty of room for the brake proportioning valve on the driverside frame rail. Ground clearance looks good, its just a little bit lower than the motor cosmember. Steering shaft does not seem to be an issue.
For $300 shipped they appear at this point to be worth it to me....i dont have the body on yet but i dont for see any issues.
If the motor was not moved forward i think the cross member would have been fine...i also dont think the 4l60 will have the inteference issue
I've bought 4 sets and all of them are 100% stainless steel, The flanges/bungs are just not polished. Are you sure yours aren't stainless?