Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Mar 1, 2016 | 07:49 PM
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99VetteFRC's Avatar
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From: Felton Pa
Default Slave Cylinder

I have an LS1/t56 in my Chevelle I'm using a Wilwood master cylinder with a stock slave cylinder. Most of the time the clutch works great but once in while I lose the pedal and can't shift for a few pumps. I've bled several times and have a speed bleeder so I' pretty sure all the air is out. I've now had 2 clutches (stock and a spec twin disc) and 2 Master Cylinders. The slave is the only consistent part so I'm going to replace that next. What bolt in slave cylinder is everyone using. I just want to bolt in, no measuring or bullshit.
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 06:55 PM
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From: Little Austin
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I use a Wilwood MC with a stock f-body slave (LUK brand), LS7 clutch, and T56 in my Cougar. No issues.

Andrew
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Old Mar 2, 2016 | 09:02 PM
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From: Saint John, IN
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I'm switching from one style of Wilwood master (3/4 bore x 1" stroke, 260-10374) to another, more robust looking one (5/8 bore x 1.24" stroke, 260-3372) because of pedal hardness and seal leakage. It's connected to a stock f-body slave from Rock Auto, Spec 2+ clutch and T56.
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Old Mar 3, 2016 | 04:26 AM
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From: KCMO
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I'm not saying this is your problem, but I had a speed bleeder by a certain forum sponsor and had nothing but problems with it. The car was 100% fine before the install and very erratic after, similar to your description. Turns out my bleeder was leaking air (but not oil) from some point either in the line itself or at a fitting. The result - my pedal clutch would go away from time to time, especially after a hard run. I removed the bleeder and have been trouble free since.

I should have known by the interesting combination of fittings they used I would have problems with it. Live and learn.
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 11:13 AM
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From: Little Austin
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Originally Posted by gofastwclass
I'm not saying this is your problem, but I had a speed bleeder by a certain forum sponsor and had nothing but problems with it. The car was 100% fine before the install and very erratic after, similar to your description. Turns out my bleeder was leaking air (but not oil) from some point either in the line itself or at a fitting. The result - my pedal clutch would go away from time to time, especially after a hard run. I removed the bleeder and have been trouble free since.

I should have known by the interesting combination of fittings they used I would have problems with it. Live and learn.
A vast majority of the remote bleeder kits that I have seen use an incorrect fitting going into the slave. I bought one from Speedway and the fitting they sent me used a crush washer to seal on the slave body instead of having a cone on it to seal against the matching inverted cone in the slave. Luckily I spotted this before installing it and tracked down a proper fitting for the slave.

Andrew
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Old Mar 4, 2016 | 08:00 PM
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From: KCMO
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This one was actually correct on the slave size (amazingly) but was a jumble on both ends after that. I think the real issue was the brake bleeder side used a 37 degree flare in a 45 degree flare hole or the other way round I can't remember. Basically the two incompatible flare designs that would almost seal and make you think it was working for about a day or so.

I spent some time looking up part numbers trying to figure it out and wasn't getting anywhere. I got frustrated one evening, pulled the transmission for the seemingly millionth time, put on a regular bleeder and haven't looked back years ago.
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