A body swap HELP !!!!
#1
A body swap HELP !!!!
Hi quick question for any a body owners who have ls swaped that used a 4l60 auto. I have read alot of the swaps but 10 to 1 seem to use the t56. Sorry my question is is there firewall or floor mods that need to be done to run the 4l60. Im looking to put a lq4 and 4l60 auto in. I have an f body pan and a ctsv pan with home made mounts but I havn't got started yet and want to work on it soon. So if I missed a build that this was talked about let me know. Thanks
#2
Hi quick question for any a body owners who have ls swaped that used a 4l60 auto. I have read alot of the swaps but 10 to 1 seem to use the t56. Sorry my question is is there firewall or floor mods that need to be done to run the 4l60. Im looking to put a lq4 and 4l60 auto in. I have an f body pan and a ctsv pan with home made mounts but I havn't got started yet and want to work on it soon. So if I missed a build that this was talked about let me know. Thanks
#5
There are multiple issues with using the CTSV pan in this application...it's too tall along its front edge too be able to get the engine low enough in the frame, the sump is too deep and will hang below the frame and the angled front wall of the sump will experience interference with the crossmember if you try to move the engine forward. The Holley 302-2 pan is what was used as the basis for designing both sets of the new Hooker 68-72 A-body engine brackets and easily allows the engine to be repositioned forward by the required 1.25" while providing the same oil capacity as the 4th-gen F-body pan. If you notch the F-body pan, you are giving up oil capacity.
#7
I stuck an 80E in my chevelle with no mods whatsoever. Dirty dingo slider adapters and short and wide engine mounts. The top bolts on the trans are tough to get to but its doable. My passenger side head is about an inch off the firewall and im using an F body pan. Its a little too close for comfort on the crossmember for me, i would go with something different
Trending Topics
#8
Id like to start by saying thanks for the posts. Question for Todd I was just looking at the apps listed for the 302-2 and the chevelle wasn't on there but I did see it on the 302-1 resto pan so is it the 302-1 or 302-2 pan just so I get it right.
#9
I stuck an 80E in my chevelle with no mods whatsoever. Dirty dingo slider adapters and short and wide engine mounts. The top bolts on the trans are tough to get to but its doable. My passenger side head is about an inch off the firewall and im using an F body pan. Its a little too close for comfort on the crossmember for me, i would go with something different
#11
The website hasn't been update yet to reflect the fact that I just completed the development of the new Hooker 68-72 A-body LS swap system using the 302-2 pan...the 302-1 pan will not successfully install in an A-body.
#12
If you use the truck FEAD, you'll have to swap out the PS pump pulley for one that is a maximum diameter of 6"...if you use the F-body FEAD, you'll have to relocate the alternator on top of the engine using the Holley relocation bracket or something similar. You can install the complete F-body accessory drive if you use the rear position Hooker engine bracket set, but then you'll be cutting/rebuilding your trans tunnel sheet metal to clear the 4L60 bellhousing. There's no free lunch unfortunately and the decision of which way to go is up to you.
#14
#15
My 71 Chevelle has a T-56... but you will encounter many of the same problems with a 4L60E.
I have used a stock F-Body, CTS-V, Notch F-Body and a Holley 302-2 pan. As Toddoky stated.. there are problems with the CTS-V. You will have to raise and the engine location to clear the X-Member as well as having drive line angle issues.
Just do yourself a favor and skip all of them issue and go with the Holley 302-2 pan.
BC
I have used a stock F-Body, CTS-V, Notch F-Body and a Holley 302-2 pan. As Toddoky stated.. there are problems with the CTS-V. You will have to raise and the engine location to clear the X-Member as well as having drive line angle issues.
Just do yourself a favor and skip all of them issue and go with the Holley 302-2 pan.
BC
#16
I set the LS and 4l80e on my bare frame this weekend using the new stock location Holley mounts Toddoky designed, and they look great. The engine and frame is level which gave me about a 2* down angle at the trans output shaft. I have the ABC trans cross member (for a boxed frame) mocked up right now but the built in humps for the exhaust are 1-1/2" above the frame, so I think I am going to lower it too fit the 455/4l80e location it was intended for and use spacers to get the tail shaft back to 2*. I expect to have to cut the tunnel for clearance but it has to be repaired anyway.
That being said I would recommend getting the Holley forward mount system which should greatly reduce the labor involved in fabrication setting the engine and trans, and should be a bolt in modification
That being said I would recommend getting the Holley forward mount system which should greatly reduce the labor involved in fabrication setting the engine and trans, and should be a bolt in modification
#17
I set the LS and 4l80e on my bare frame this weekend using the new stock location Holley mounts Toddoky designed, and they look great. The engine and frame is level which gave me about a 2* down angle at the trans output shaft. I have the ABC trans cross member (for a boxed frame) mocked up right now but the built in humps for the exhaust are 1-1/2" above the frame, so I think I am going to lower it too fit the 455/4l80e location it was intended for and use spacers to get the tail shaft back to 2*. I expect to have to cut the tunnel for clearance but it has to be repaired anyway.
That being said I would recommend getting the Holley forward mount system which should greatly reduce the labor involved in fabrication setting the engine and trans, and should be a bolt in modification
That being said I would recommend getting the Holley forward mount system which should greatly reduce the labor involved in fabrication setting the engine and trans, and should be a bolt in modification
#18
So Ive reread all the posts and must have missed something and got it this time around. So 302-2 pan forward mounts and move alt. and all is good and I won't have to cut anything. Its not a free lunch but I will take it. Thank Guys
#19
That's it, you've got it. With the forward engine brackets you can run the truck accessory drive by changing the PS pump pulley, the F-body accessory drive by relocating the alternator, or the Holley or Corvette accessory drives as-is.
#20
Sorry for the late response. Im using the stock truck accessories, they clear everything just fine with the smaller diameter power steering pulley. I honestly have no idea of my u joint angles. Just kind of shoved everything in and measured for a drive shaft and had one made. Iv taken it on the freeway a few times and no weird vibrations or anything like that.