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That won't work for his transmission, It only fits 2009-2010 Camaro his post says his is a 2012.
I'd still give D&D a call and see what they could do. I couldn't stand the thought of a 2 piece driveshaft in my old car. Would be different if it came with one and was designed for it. Not saying it won't work but I have my doubts it'll be as strong as a one piece driveshaft. Most of these trans that have a flanged output came from the factory with a IRS.
Not Florida salt air but began life in the north east and spent a lot of time on the east coast so around 20 years of salted roads in the winter must have taken it's toll. So this came in the mail and now I've got a dilemma on how to hook up to it, thought I had the fittings I needed but not sure how to connect up to the 3/8 and 5/16 fittings on this. Anyone have any part numbers for the fittings I need? I went to O'reilly's and they let me look through their inventory but I couldn't find anything that would work.
I appreciate all the help guys, keep going backwards but I ain't giving up.
Not saying it won't work but I have my doubts it'll be as strong as a one piece driveshaft. Most of these trans that have a flanged output came from the factory with a IRS.
The Drive Shaft Shop said they could build me one and it would handle 1000hp, They can make them stronger than that if you really needed it.
This thread might help you. Title (My swap. 5.3 into a 1990 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban.) He has his fuel system listed but I don't know if he's starting with the same pump assembly as you are but sure looks like what you need. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=499225
This thread might help you. Title (My swap. 5.3 into a 1990 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban.) He has his fuel system listed but I don't know if he's starting with the same pump assembly as you are but sure looks like what you need. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=499225
Dude, you're a life saver . Those sure looks like exactly what I need. Just one question if you don't mind, any reason you went with the 4 different brands for the fittings? I see Russell has 640820 and 640830 that look like the sizes and attachments and I have all either Russell or Summit Racing AN fittings for everything else so I'll probably stick with them.
Dude, you're a life saver . Those sure looks like exactly what I need. Just one question if you don't mind, any reason you went with the 4 different brands for the fittings? I see Russell has 640820 and 640830 that look like the sizes and attachments and I have all either Russell or Summit Racing AN fittings for everything else so I'll probably stick with them.
Thanks again,
Rock
That's not my post, I have been doing some research for a couple of builds and came across that post and figured I better bookmark it for a later date.
Well I appreciate it that's for sure. I went ahead and ordered those fittings from Summit so I'll hopefully be able to cross that off my list early next week. Got a lot of work done today, motor is almost ready to come out and didn't break, strip or otherwise mangle any bolts or anything so it was a productive day. I am amazed the clutch line wasn't leaking because I got about 1/2 a turn on the nut to remove it and the line snapped, luckily I won't be needing that anymore.
Made some progress today, truck is down 6 cylinders right now
You can see the 3 2x6 and 2x8 I had to put under the tires to be able to get the hoist under the control arms
Next question, just to verify, the stock v6 mounts had 5 and 6 bolts, the 4 holes in a rectangle in the pic on the left and 1 or 2 on the side of the frame, looks like the v8 mounts I picked up just use the 3 bolts in the pic on the right, that look correct? Not sure how the hell to get the nuts up to the top holes, gonna be fun making that work.
That looks about right but I guess you know as soon as you drop the motor down.
I have a tip that you may or may not want to look into,I have similar clamshell mounts for my S10 and they have a pretty large void on either side and it leaves the mounts with a mushy feeling for the power I intend to put down. Supposedly you can fill that void with polyurethane it will remove the play in them and make them more solid feeling/stronger but still flexible, It also works on some transmission mounts.
Yes that's right. I think I used 3 u joints with extensions and created 4 new curse words putting mine in haha I don't understand why GM didn't weld the nuts on the back. I used the dirty dingo mounts in my truck and they fit perfect
Well I got the motor mounts installed, not as bad as I was expecting but still a PIA. The passenger side there was a slot at the top of the frame that I was able to take a cheap wrench and bend it to get it in there. I taped the nut to it and was able to hold it in place when I snugged the bolt up. Drivers side took the expected extension, u joints and a bit of patience.
I also got the fuel pump swapped out and -6 AN fittings and stainless braided hose up to the fuel filter/regulator. Those Russell fittings 640820 and 64083 were exactly what was needed to connect to the feed and return lines on the fuel pump and connect to the AN fittings. Dropping the tank was a huge pain since I hadn't really planned to put the truck up when I did so I hadn't run the tank down, that bitch was heavy. I had started to pull the bed but since I backed it into the garage I abandoned that plan, but only after I broke one of the bed bolts.
This is what I say to that ****** bolt
Also ended up bending the **** out of the rusted to **** straps holding the tank so I replaced those was well.
Started working on mounting the radiator, gonna be close but we'll see how it goes.
I really appreciate all the help and quick responses from everyone, I'll keep updating as I check things off the list or hit the next road block.
Yes that's right. I think I used 3 u joints with extensions and created 4 new curse words putting mine in haha I don't understand why GM didn't weld the nuts on the back. I used the dirty dingo mounts in my truck and they fit perfect
I do have a question about the Dirty Dingo mounts, do you just bolt them up to the engine loose to see where they should land or what? Confused by the long slots, for some reason I thought the directions would give a measurement or something but it seems if you lock them down tight before the motor goes in, just being off by a little could be an inch off center at the of the transmission.
What i did was measure off my old TBI motor that I took out. from the back of the block to the back edge of the original motor mount. Then I just bolted the new dirty dingo to my LS at that dimension so my motor sits in the factory location. Also what radiator are you using? I was able to use the factory radiator and I haven't had any cooling issues its been fine even in the South Georgia heat
What i did was measure off my old TBI motor that I took out. from the back of the block to the back edge of the original motor mount. Then I just bolted the new dirty dingo to my LS at that dimension so my motor sits in the factory location. Also what radiator are you using? I was able to use the factory radiator and I haven't had any cooling issues its been fine even in the South Georgia heat
Going from the V6 to V8 is the confusion for me, I'll have to take a pic of the stock mounts, they weren't on that crossmember like the V8 ones, they sat on a bracket off the back of it. The motor mounts now are probably3 inches forward from where the stock V6 ones were.
For the radiator I'm trying to fit the Camaro one because the tranny has cooler lines and I measured one in a guy at work's car that has a similar year and it seemed close. Now that I've started I think it's a bit taller with the high filler neck.
I do have a question about the Dirty Dingo mounts, do you just bolt them up to the engine loose to see where they should land or what? Confused by the long slots.
I left my mounts loose then installed the engine/trans/headers and adjusted for best clearance at firewall and header fitment. You may need to adjust for Header Clearance- Oil pan clearance- Trans tunnel Clearance and so on.
I would say header clearance was most critical in my case.
I left my mounts loose then installed the engine/trans/headers and adjusted for best clearance at firewall and header fitment. You may need to adjust for Header Clearance- Oil pan clearance- Trans tunnel Clearance and so on.
I would say header clearance was most critical in my case.
Thanks, since you can see the difference between the stock v6 and the current motor mounts there's no way I could measure anything and be even close. Guess that's what I'll have to do.
I did get the front core support notched to fit the radiator, need to drop down quite a bit. Figured now is good time to learn to weld so I picked up a Harbor Freight welder and played with that today. Gonna just drop the lip where the radiator mounts down about an inch or so and that'll give me the clearance I need. Just need to practice a bit before I feel comfortable doing it.
Thanks again for the help guys, still feel good with the progress I've made this week.
Any chance someone could give me a measurement off the back of the block to the motormounts to get me close so I can at least snug them down so they're not moving around too much. If I can get the radiator mounted this weekend I'm going to try to get the motor/tranny in.
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. Those sure looks like exactly what I need. Just one question if you don't mind, any reason you went with the 4 different brands for the fittings? I see Russell has 640820 and 640830 that look like the sizes and attachments and I have all either Russell or Summit Racing AN fittings for everything else so I'll probably stick with them.
