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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 03:12 PM
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Default Pinion angle

Doing a 2007 a classic 5.3/4L60E swap into my 1948 Chevy pickup. Engine/ transmission down angle measured at 4 degrees down with full weight on suspension. Is 4 degrees up on on pinion acceptable?
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 03:36 PM
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I believe the pinion should not be upward, especially in a leaf spring suspension, my .02
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 06:48 PM
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Default pinion angle

4 degrees up should be fine they should cancel each other
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Old Jul 2, 2016 | 06:51 PM
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If you have a smart phone, use the tremec driveline app . It's free. Works great
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 05:56 AM
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yes and no....the angles have to be the same and opposite....just like you have.
But the driveshaft has to be within a certain spec too. Measure on all 4 wheels, you need the diff, engine, and driveshaft angles.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
yes and no....the angles have to be the same and opposite....just like you have.
But the driveshaft has to be within a certain spec too. Measure on all 4 wheels, you need the diff, engine, and driveshaft angles.
^^^^This

Andrew
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
yes and no....the angles have to be the same and opposite....just like you have.
But the driveshaft has to be within a certain spec too. Measure on all 4 wheels, you need the diff, engine, and driveshaft angles.
I agree with this but I also know from experience ive had it anywhere from 0. Up to about 3.5 or 4 i use my angle finder to start then ill switch to my digital setup when I'm setting it up permanently I've had it move a little from welding on perches and it didn't have a drastic effect on it but I'd still want it as close as I could get it
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 06:56 PM
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If its leaf spring truck, you always want down angle on the rear.
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 11:46 PM
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Don't forget to allow for movement of the rear under acceleration. They way it's set now is were you want it under acceleration, not at rest.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 10:04 AM
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^^^ that's why you start with downward pinion angle on leaf springs. The spring will wrap up in the front and the angle of the pinion goes upwards.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Taxman20
^^^ that's why you start with downward pinion angle on leaf springs. The spring will wrap up in the front and the angle of the pinion goes upwards.
Statements like this are meaningless unless you measure the angle of the driveshaft.

The front and rear operating angles need to be equal, opposite, and as small as possible but not zero. Depending on the rear suspension the rear operating angle might need to be set lower to compensate for axle wrap, but this depends largely on the rear suspension design and the bushings being used. Rear ride height also plays a big role in all this.

Andrew
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Taxman20
^^^ that's why you start with downward pinion angle on leaf springs. The spring will wrap up in the front and the angle of the pinion goes upwards.
Unless you're using quality traction bars like Cal-Tracs. Then there is minimal pinion rise...
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Unless you're using quality traction bars like Cal-Tracs. Then there is minimal pinion rise...
Exactly...so back to what I posted above.

Andrew
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:53 PM
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The angle of the trany is irrelevant. You just don't want the driveshaft straight with the U-joints. They need to be at an angle. Yes, the rear suspension dictates the optimum angles. Of course none of our race cars had leaf springs. The theory is still the same. Pinion angle is set as needed that at launch the squat of the rear suspension gets the pinion angle to where it needs to be during a run. in a leaf spring car this is always down. And unless this is a real track only race vehicle, I wouldn't over complicate it. If a person is that serious then we should talk about location of brake calipers too. Yes it matters.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by S10xGN
Unless you're using quality traction bars like Cal-Tracs. Then there is minimal pinion rise...
Agreed. But you still don't want an up pinion angle.
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 08:58 PM
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The angle of the transmission is not irrelevant. Sigh....

The guidelines that I outlined in post #11 is what's important.

Andrew
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 10:09 PM
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I should rephrase it. Its not relevant to the way the vehicle drives or handles.
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Statements like this are meaningless unless you measure the angle of the driveshaft.

The front and rear operating angles need to be equal, opposite, and as small as possible but not zero. Depending on the rear suspension the rear operating angle might need to be set lower to compensate for axle wrap, but this depends largely on the rear suspension design and the bushings being used. Rear ride height also plays a big role in all this.

Andrew
Winner winner. I shoot for 3* or less working angle on both u joints.
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 12:29 PM
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To simplify what was hashed out here;
Measure engine and trans, and the axle should be about 2-3* less than what the engine measures. So if the engine is measuring 4* downward, the rear should be up 1-2* to allow for axle wrap. That way under load they will be close to the same angle
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 01:11 PM
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I'm guessing since this is a 48 pickup, it will be street drive, not race only.
Instead of asking peoples opinions, go to the experts, follow their advice:
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF
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