'65 C10 2015 Silverado Pullout laying frame
'65 C10 2015 Silverado Pullout laying frame '65 C10 BBW SWB all original and beautifully rust free.
Drivetrain:
2015 Silverado Pullout with 13k miles
DOD delete
Custom grind TSP cam (they won't give out the specs due to competition I guess)
Circle D 3200 stall converter
Suspension:
Choppin block front k member
Choppin block tubular control arms
Ridetech tubular trailing arms
Ridetech RQ Shockwaves
Brakes
C5 14" big brake kit
Teaser. More to come.
Drivetrain:
2015 Silverado Pullout with 13k miles
DOD delete
Custom grind TSP cam (they won't give out the specs due to competition I guess)
Circle D 3200 stall converter
Suspension:
Choppin block front k member
Choppin block tubular control arms
Ridetech tubular trailing arms
Ridetech RQ Shockwaves
Brakes
C5 14" big brake kit
Teaser. More to come.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: NW Florida
I love that style truck, cant wait until I retire and don't have to worry about moving every few years so I can have a project truck like this. Looks like a good plan, good luck with the build.
Rock
Rock
5.3.
It's proprietary, I imagine due to all the competition with the new LT motors. They did tell us that the cam is bigger than a 228r though.
Not the truck pictured in the background. That's already finished. It's a built Ls swapped truck as well on a full porterbuilt suspension.
It's proprietary, I imagine due to all the competition with the new LT motors. They did tell us that the cam is bigger than a 228r though.
Not the truck pictured in the background. That's already finished. It's a built Ls swapped truck as well on a full porterbuilt suspension.
L83/6l90 installed. Going to cut some block off plates for the vacuum pump on the waterjet. I don't see anyone selling them yet, so I might cut some extra for sale.
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Verdad Gallardo Running into some issues. He went through a local Hotrod shop (won't say any names) and they convinced him to basically make 2 kits work together.
It has a Choppin blocks front kit
And a ridetech rear
Well, they don't work together, and in the end he spent a ton of money buying the kits and ended up with a bunch of parts he couldn't use and ultimately will have to sell to try and recoup some money.
There's absolutely no way the trailing arm mount will accommodate a 1 piece shaft as it. Transmission is -6 degrees layed out and my mock 3" shaft doesn't even come close to the pinion flange (roughly 2-3) before the driveshaft hits the top of the crossmember.
There's pretty much 2 options:
*Cut down the trans mount and take it to say -10 degrees which would give us the room needed (really don't want to do this as I try to stay around 3-6 degrees)
Cut the top bar out between the trailing arm mounts and rebuild it adding a few inches. This is the route which we will most likely go. The sad part is it was a pretty expensive kit.
You can see just how far off it is (granted, its not at ride height, so it would actually pivot down, but I have it set at 0 just to see how far off it would need to be to make it work).
It has a Choppin blocks front kit
And a ridetech rear
Well, they don't work together, and in the end he spent a ton of money buying the kits and ended up with a bunch of parts he couldn't use and ultimately will have to sell to try and recoup some money.
There's absolutely no way the trailing arm mount will accommodate a 1 piece shaft as it. Transmission is -6 degrees layed out and my mock 3" shaft doesn't even come close to the pinion flange (roughly 2-3) before the driveshaft hits the top of the crossmember.
There's pretty much 2 options:
*Cut down the trans mount and take it to say -10 degrees which would give us the room needed (really don't want to do this as I try to stay around 3-6 degrees)
Cut the top bar out between the trailing arm mounts and rebuild it adding a few inches. This is the route which we will most likely go. The sad part is it was a pretty expensive kit.
You can see just how far off it is (granted, its not at ride height, so it would actually pivot down, but I have it set at 0 just to see how far off it would need to be to make it work).
yeah 10* is too much for a laid-out truck. maybe in a lifted 4x4 haha
cutting up expensive parts is the best part of hotrodding. I'd bend up an oval hoop of that same tube and miter the existing tube to cope right in. it'd look sick.
cutting up expensive parts is the best part of hotrodding. I'd bend up an oval hoop of that same tube and miter the existing tube to cope right in. it'd look sick.
What you're experiencing is exactly why I build my own parts. Of course as you mentioned, buying a complete kit from one supplier could have possibly eliminated this issue as well.
I really like the look of these trucks, but I look like a stilt man on a tricycle driving them. Hahaha.
I really like the look of these trucks, but I look like a stilt man on a tricycle driving them. Hahaha.
We're selling the Ridetech rear setup and going with a Choppin Blocks like the front as a remedy.
Doors are painted
Prepping the cab for paint (both in and out). Had to put a patch panel in the floor. I don't care how expensive your cab is, there is ALWAYS rust. He paid almost $10k for the truck, and I will end up putting in probably 4-5 days in fixing rust to get it ready.
Paint color will be butternut yellow with a white top, and satin black interior. (Factory A/C truck and will be getting a vintage air setup, so he's not concerned about driving around in a black oven haha)
Doors are painted
Prepping the cab for paint (both in and out). Had to put a patch panel in the floor. I don't care how expensive your cab is, there is ALWAYS rust. He paid almost $10k for the truck, and I will end up putting in probably 4-5 days in fixing rust to get it ready.
Paint color will be butternut yellow with a white top, and satin black interior. (Factory A/C truck and will be getting a vintage air setup, so he's not concerned about driving around in a black oven haha)