Winter/spring engine build up
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 16
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Winter/spring engine build up hey guys,
I have been bleeding from the eyes searching and pricing and comparing upgrades for my current 2001 z28 ls1 in my 93 Mazda rx7 - 90% not running 9% track 1% street car. this is all sitting in front of a stage 2 F-body T56. 3.90 torsion rear.
going be doing road course time attack in the new england area, COMSCC specifically. I'm brand new to the road race world but really excited to be getting into the sport and driving the car as it should be.
I definitely want to upgrade the bottom end, was going to do this via forged short block... what series of LS, stroker or not, has pledged me. I want to build the engine to last many seasons, i was thinking 383 but for not much more i can upgrade to a ls2 ls3 block. i was going to get new heads/cam for this anyways. i know the little things are going to add up no matter what route i go. also id love to get over to a dry sump oiling set up for the increased life of the engine.
id love to be around the 500rwhp and great torque curve while obviously staying NA. i know these setups are all capable but is there enough reason or perks to upgrade from the ls1/6 block to another series?
thanks for the input! Hopefully this is the right section for this, was too many options.
I have been bleeding from the eyes searching and pricing and comparing upgrades for my current 2001 z28 ls1 in my 93 Mazda rx7 - 90% not running 9% track 1% street car. this is all sitting in front of a stage 2 F-body T56. 3.90 torsion rear.
going be doing road course time attack in the new england area, COMSCC specifically. I'm brand new to the road race world but really excited to be getting into the sport and driving the car as it should be.
I definitely want to upgrade the bottom end, was going to do this via forged short block... what series of LS, stroker or not, has pledged me. I want to build the engine to last many seasons, i was thinking 383 but for not much more i can upgrade to a ls2 ls3 block. i was going to get new heads/cam for this anyways. i know the little things are going to add up no matter what route i go. also id love to get over to a dry sump oiling set up for the increased life of the engine.
id love to be around the 500rwhp and great torque curve while obviously staying NA. i know these setups are all capable but is there enough reason or perks to upgrade from the ls1/6 block to another series?
thanks for the input! Hopefully this is the right section for this, was too many options.
This is my 2 cents, I have a 500rwhp ls1, 383 heads cam and everything needed, I trust it in a quarter mile, maybe a 15 20 min road course session, if I were to do road courses often or long periods I would go ls3 as its easier to get to 500rwhp, I could be wrong and it could be just my setup, I have 4.08 gears and spin the motor to 7200 not sure how long that would last on a course, and if I had the money I'd get a dry sump setup, I know my setup wont last long a road course as the rings are gapped for nitrous and it blows oil out at times, I have done some road courses but at car shows and its 3-5 laps
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 16
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Awesome man thanks for the reply, that first hand knowledge is exactly what I was looking for. Ls3 seems to be the way to go for reliable power, going to go with a 415 short block, undecided on rest of the set up as far as heads and cam go. Lots of reading to do, but at least I'm set on a series now.
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 286
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I would think that 415ci (properly built, of course) would allow you to make 500hp without even working too hard. 
One thing that you'll want to be careful of though - if you're using a stock block, it's probably not a good idea to have a stroke that's over 4". The reason that I've been given is that beyond 4", the pistons get pulled too far out of the bottoms of the cylinders, this allows them to rotate (or 'rock') on the piston pins, so that when the crank starts to push them back up, they're not ideally aligned with the cylinders, which causes wear, & eventually mandates a rebuild sooner than would be needed with a shorter stroke.
Just something to be aware of...
Good luck!
One thing that you'll want to be careful of though - if you're using a stock block, it's probably not a good idea to have a stroke that's over 4". The reason that I've been given is that beyond 4", the pistons get pulled too far out of the bottoms of the cylinders, this allows them to rotate (or 'rock') on the piston pins, so that when the crank starts to push them back up, they're not ideally aligned with the cylinders, which causes wear, & eventually mandates a rebuild sooner than would be needed with a shorter stroke.
Just something to be aware of...
Good luck! 
TECH Veteran
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,892
Likes: 703
From: Mississippi
Op do you have a budget?
402ci or 416ci will make 515-530 horse at the tire with budget minded L92/LS3 heads/intake.
Cam in the 240s duration will get you there.
I honestly think if you don't want to go with a stroker route you can achieve 500 rwhp with a TFS/AFR head with a properly matched cam.. look at the 20 LS intakes tested article in hot rod mag. That motor made 590 at the crank with afr 230 heads and a POOR spec cam...
402ci or 416ci will make 515-530 horse at the tire with budget minded L92/LS3 heads/intake.
Cam in the 240s duration will get you there.
I honestly think if you don't want to go with a stroker route you can achieve 500 rwhp with a TFS/AFR head with a properly matched cam.. look at the 20 LS intakes tested article in hot rod mag. That motor made 590 at the crank with afr 230 heads and a POOR spec cam...
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2008
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no particular number in mind, but i would like to build something solid, and cost effective. if it takes longer to build a proper engine because of cost, that's fine with me. I rather do it right the first time then do it a 2nd or 3rd time.
I was looking at the Shafiroff Racing short blocks, the 416 in particular with the long snout for ls7 style dry/damp sump set up. I'm still reading up on what is all needed and involved for such a thing. may end up going with the accusump but i know it wont be as superior.
That is a great bit of info right there that makes total sense about the stroke. definitely something to consider! i would much rather have the durability then the extra bit of power for sure. car should be around 2700-2800lbs judging from other peoples builds so there not much to move! haha
thanks guys!
I was looking at the Shafiroff Racing short blocks, the 416 in particular with the long snout for ls7 style dry/damp sump set up. I'm still reading up on what is all needed and involved for such a thing. may end up going with the accusump but i know it wont be as superior.
That is a great bit of info right there that makes total sense about the stroke. definitely something to consider! i would much rather have the durability then the extra bit of power for sure. car should be around 2700-2800lbs judging from other peoples builds so there not much to move! haha
thanks guys!
