Cheap manual transmissions for an LS.
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
Likes: 109
From: Ohio
yep, and it has a gear set something like this:
1 2 3 4 5 R
4.02 2.32 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55
while the 4.3 small trucks had a gear set like this
1 2 3 4 5 R
3.49 2.16 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55
I have one I'm gonna swap into my '66 c10 when I have time. the bolt pattern is similar to a gen 2 motor
1 2 3 4 5 R
4.02 2.32 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55
while the 4.3 small trucks had a gear set like this
1 2 3 4 5 R
3.49 2.16 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55
I have one I'm gonna swap into my '66 c10 when I have time. the bolt pattern is similar to a gen 2 motor
no, that appears to be the "metric" block bolt pattern for the 4 cylinder 122-series motors.
the ones to nab are from 93 & later v6 s10's and s-series vehicles... jimmys, hombres etc
look like so
http://www.s10forum.com/classifieds/...ate/1234805530
the ones to nab are from 93 & later v6 s10's and s-series vehicles... jimmys, hombres etc
look like so
http://www.s10forum.com/classifieds/...ate/1234805530
The V6 gearing would work pretty well with a 3.08 or 2.73 rear. Might have to consider that in my next swap.
Shifter location might be an issue with anything but a truck though.
Shifter location might be an issue with anything but a truck though.
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Just my two cents, but I have been doing some reading about the CD009 swap and it seems to look less and less appealing. The trans ratios just don't seem like they would do all that well behind an LS. Plus when you look at the cost its not that much different from a T56. On Ebay the CD009 trans run around $450, and the adapter plate for the LS to CD009 along with clutch disk is $650. Your already at $1100 right there and you still need a bell housing, and all the other associate parts.
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
If you can build a motor, you can build a manual trans. I never have been into a manual other than a clutch swap until I dove into a T56 that was in my 02 Camaro. Once you see how it works, it makes sense. Nothing to it and I'm sure they're all basically the same in design.
at the risk of getting flamed, if you've ever A-B'd a t56 versus a cd009 you'll know why it's becoming more and more popular. hands down a far superior transmission in stock form.
So sort of off topic but why are purposely trying to spend money building a beater when you want to ultimately build a good car? Any time and money spent cobbling random junk together is time and money that could be spent on something actually worth building, and this transmission mish mash scheme sounds like you are going to be spending dollars in an attempt to save dimes. It's a needless complication with few upsides in the long run. I get the father in law thing too, but using a car to force you together is like having a kid thinking it will save your marriage.
Build the shitty car second, using scraps from the first one. Just some thoughts since you asked.
Build the shitty car second, using scraps from the first one. Just some thoughts since you asked.
Tipsy
In defense of the OP, there are situations where simple and cheap might be better.
I'm happily running a $100 Super T10 (with $100 rebuild kit) in my 72 Olds with a 5.3.
Car came with a 2.73 rear, no trans, etc. I found a 3.42 1st gear T10 to provide a good combo with the 2.73 rear for acceleration and hiway cruise as a DD.
If I went with virtually any other trans, the lower numeric 1st gear would have required a new rear axle as well as a much more expensive trans.
I'm happily running a $100 Super T10 (with $100 rebuild kit) in my 72 Olds with a 5.3.
Car came with a 2.73 rear, no trans, etc. I found a 3.42 1st gear T10 to provide a good combo with the 2.73 rear for acceleration and hiway cruise as a DD.
If I went with virtually any other trans, the lower numeric 1st gear would have required a new rear axle as well as a much more expensive trans.
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
In Sweden there are a few modified BMW manuals (Getrag) behind Chevy motors (and Supras, Volvos...). Fifth is 1:1 which makes a great combo with 2.73 rear end cars. Grab a trans from a 530d and they are said to cope with 1000 hp. It is not cheap going the BMW route with rebuild costs and all, but T56s don't come cheap here either. And I don't think any manual S10 V6-trucks ever made it here.
I know of a fox mustang that had a turbo 351w, and the worst t5, from a 2.3 mustang, with the 4.03:1 first. No clutch drops nor powershifting, it lasted over 3 years of running 11s on drag slicks. The 3.8 version is probably the 3.75:1 first gear, and you probably could break it with the stock 3.8, but if you are willing to treat it right, go ahead and try it. Or you can spend 400 on an aftermarket t5 case, and 600 on an aftermarket 2.95 gearset
I used to think an NV3500 would be a good match, but the more i researched it, the more reports i found of breaking teeth off second and third gears.
I used to think an NV3500 would be a good match, but the more i researched it, the more reports i found of breaking teeth off second and third gears.
While that is good advice, I think the point of the thread was to find an alternative to the t56, which typically brings top dollar. Spending 1k on a case, gears, and the core transmission, and it is getting dangerously close to a complete t56. I picked one up a while back for 1300 with everything.
Thats really the problem for all performance builds, the lack of cheap, strong, readily available manual transmissions. Everything thats even half decent is bringing top dollar.
There is one cheap, strong, readily available manyal n trans still out there, but its heavy, the ratios are crap, and it has no overdrive. But there is an input shaft upgrade for it, for under $100, that doubles its totque capacity from 1000 ft-lbs to 2000 ft-lbs.
The alternative is to go automatic, and for LSx guys there ar ed only 2 good choices, the 4L60E is weak but geared right for non turbo, the 4L80E is strong and geared ok for turbo, but a little hard to find at a fair price, and stall converters for it are even more ostly than 60E converters. Still, the 80E is the best choice, because who wants an SM465?
There is one cheap, strong, readily available manyal n trans still out there, but its heavy, the ratios are crap, and it has no overdrive. But there is an input shaft upgrade for it, for under $100, that doubles its totque capacity from 1000 ft-lbs to 2000 ft-lbs.
The alternative is to go automatic, and for LSx guys there ar ed only 2 good choices, the 4L60E is weak but geared right for non turbo, the 4L80E is strong and geared ok for turbo, but a little hard to find at a fair price, and stall converters for it are even more ostly than 60E converters. Still, the 80E is the best choice, because who wants an SM465?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 28
yep, and it has a gear set something like this:
1 2 3 4 5 R
4.02 2.32 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55
while the 4.3 small trucks had a gear set like this
1 2 3 4 5 R
3.49 2.16 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55
I have one I'm gonna swap into my '66 c10 when I have time. the bolt pattern is similar to a gen 2 motor
1 2 3 4 5 R
4.02 2.32 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55
while the 4.3 small trucks had a gear set like this
1 2 3 4 5 R
3.49 2.16 1.40 1.00 0.73 3.55
I have one I'm gonna swap into my '66 c10 when I have time. the bolt pattern is similar to a gen 2 motor
Thanks.
yes, from my research I think so. the input shaft diameter and tooth count is exactly the same between the 4.3 v6 trans and the 4.8 v8 trans. only the gear set is different (bigger tires & 2.73 gears on the full size pickups)
my plan was to use the "v8" sachs nfw1050 flywheel and the 12" "v8" clutch
I will need to find some 3.08 gears to replace the 3.73's but thats like 5 projects down the road haha.
I also should add that everyone I have spoken to says these transmissions are difficult to rebuild due to the way the case splits and the single rail design, so get a known good one. good luck.