1959 Biscayne 2 door wagon
03-17-2017, 10:41 PM
#261
Wiring up the second fuse box. This one is right next to the main one and has the fuses for the LS harness as well as all the fuses for the BCM controls.
Done. The green tape you see in these pics is just temporary to hold the harness together.
This is a shot of the underside of the dash behind where the speedometer will be.
These 4 relays are for the Ignition, Accessory, Starter and Fuel pump. I wasn't sure what kind of power the original ignition switch was capable of handling, so I added the Accessory relay to take the load off of it. Basically the ignition switch is only powering up two relays now.
3 wire temp sender to run the temp gauge.
While wiring the coils I realized that there was a big open hole above the wiper motor. I'm pretty sure that the rain water would run down this hole and right onto the coils, not what I wanted.
So, I made a plate to cover it. I will seal this to the car, and put a grommet on it to seal it up.
Will be mounted under the cowl like this.
With the wiper motor in place. I'm not sure it will stop all of the water, but should stop most of it anyway.
Done. The green tape you see in these pics is just temporary to hold the harness together.
This is a shot of the underside of the dash behind where the speedometer will be.
These 4 relays are for the Ignition, Accessory, Starter and Fuel pump. I wasn't sure what kind of power the original ignition switch was capable of handling, so I added the Accessory relay to take the load off of it. Basically the ignition switch is only powering up two relays now.
3 wire temp sender to run the temp gauge.
While wiring the coils I realized that there was a big open hole above the wiper motor. I'm pretty sure that the rain water would run down this hole and right onto the coils, not what I wanted.
So, I made a plate to cover it. I will seal this to the car, and put a grommet on it to seal it up.
Will be mounted under the cowl like this.
With the wiper motor in place. I'm not sure it will stop all of the water, but should stop most of it anyway.
03-18-2017, 12:26 PM
#262
Freak'in Awsum !!!!!!!!
03-18-2017, 10:40 PM
#264
Thanks Ken!
Thanks, but, ummm, I've see your build thread, and if there's any up-leveling to be done, it's on my end!
Got the valve covers painted, but still need to paint the script silver. They make a stencil kit to do it, but think I may just wait until I get to a car show and have a pin striper paint them, that sounds way easier! I Put some oil in it, hooked up my test oil pressure gauge and cranked it over to try and get some pressure. Hasn't come up yet........
Got some gasket material to make the throttle body gasket. Made a tool to punch out the bolt holes out of a piece of scrap tube I had lying around, just grinded the end to a point, it works better than trying to cut holes.
All trimmed up and ready to go!
Cut the mounts for the heat shields off the manifolds, then ground them down.
I got the fuel lines all hooked up from front to rear, but forgot I hadn't put the fuel filler tube back in yet. So I dug it out and went and got some fuel hose for it. Pretty sure this hose had once been made of rubber!
This is some tough hose to cut, so I decided it would be a great idea to cut it with the cut off wheel. Stunk up the garage and made it look like I did a little burn out in there, but it worked.
And this is where I am as of tonight. I really want to fire this thing, but I hooked the scanner up to it to see if everything was cool, and I have 3 DTCs for the DBW. I'm hoping it has to do with the fact I have a 2006 TAC with a 2004 tune, as that would be an easy fix. I saw a 2004 Tahoe at the Pick n Pull yesterday that had one in it so I'm going down in the morning and hoping that its still there.
Thanks, but, ummm, I've see your build thread, and if there's any up-leveling to be done, it's on my end!
Got the valve covers painted, but still need to paint the script silver. They make a stencil kit to do it, but think I may just wait until I get to a car show and have a pin striper paint them, that sounds way easier! I Put some oil in it, hooked up my test oil pressure gauge and cranked it over to try and get some pressure. Hasn't come up yet........
Got some gasket material to make the throttle body gasket. Made a tool to punch out the bolt holes out of a piece of scrap tube I had lying around, just grinded the end to a point, it works better than trying to cut holes.
All trimmed up and ready to go!
Cut the mounts for the heat shields off the manifolds, then ground them down.
I got the fuel lines all hooked up from front to rear, but forgot I hadn't put the fuel filler tube back in yet. So I dug it out and went and got some fuel hose for it. Pretty sure this hose had once been made of rubber!
This is some tough hose to cut, so I decided it would be a great idea to cut it with the cut off wheel. Stunk up the garage and made it look like I did a little burn out in there, but it worked.
And this is where I am as of tonight. I really want to fire this thing, but I hooked the scanner up to it to see if everything was cool, and I have 3 DTCs for the DBW. I'm hoping it has to do with the fact I have a 2006 TAC with a 2004 tune, as that would be an easy fix. I saw a 2004 Tahoe at the Pick n Pull yesterday that had one in it so I'm going down in the morning and hoping that its still there.
03-19-2017, 05:50 AM
#266
Super project-I swear I never saw a 59 2 dr wagon back in the day, and I am an old fart, lol
The LS engine can be a bear to get oil pressure, I now pack the pump with trans. assemb. grease, seems to help the suction on start up.
Be interesting to see how that TB setup works, 2 barl, lol
The LS engine can be a bear to get oil pressure, I now pack the pump with trans. assemb. grease, seems to help the suction on start up.
Be interesting to see how that TB setup works, 2 barl, lol
03-19-2017, 09:41 AM
#267
I always just fire them up. getting a gerotor to draw oil can be a hassle at the 3-400 rpm your starter makes. plus running the starter for >20sec is really hard on it.
melling recommends pulling the oil galley allen bolt on the drivers front/side of the block and back filling it with oil, but I haven't ever been able to get that plug out lol
melling recommends pulling the oil galley allen bolt on the drivers front/side of the block and back filling it with oil, but I haven't ever been able to get that plug out lol
03-19-2017, 09:15 PM
#269
Super project-I swear I never saw a 59 2 dr wagon back in the day, and I am an old fart, lol
The LS engine can be a bear to get oil pressure, I now pack the pump with trans. assemb. grease, seems to help the suction on start up.
Be interesting to see how that TB setup works, 2 barl, lol
The LS engine can be a bear to get oil pressure, I now pack the pump with trans. assemb. grease, seems to help the suction on start up.
Be interesting to see how that TB setup works, 2 barl, lol
03-19-2017, 09:34 PM
#270
Sorry...some off topic text here... I just browsed through your whole thread, did quite a bit of reading. Very interesting work and build.
I recall your replies back in the thread I had opened about notching the frame, and I just particularly studied the frame and engine mount work you did.
I didn't see, or maybe I should say didn't recognize, where the changes you made to the motor stands would lower the engine any. I noticed you moved them forward. I saw more content about notching for the A/C than clearance, but that was covered.
So, I have revived that old thread with a question for another poster, not sure he'll see it. I've been discussing with Gofast on my build thread in the other forum about this topic. I am struggling with how I am to lower the engine, ie what motor stands to use to get the engine lower. I already have 1/4" plates that the chevy motor mounts bolt to. Can't gain much more there. I'm thinking I need lower stands.
Just curious how you got the engine lower on yours, and if you have measured your angles yet at the tranny and driveshaft.
On some off topic subject...
I see you live in Independence, MO. I lived in Independence from 1973 through 1988. From '74 through '83 I had a '34 Ford Four Door Deluxe. I built it in the garage in front of it in the picture.
I had an ice cream store then in the shopping center across from HiBoys on Independence Avenue, next to the Donut Shop. I sold it to a guy that had a Movie Rental business next door. Both are long gone now.
Thinking of Independence brings back old memories...
I recall your replies back in the thread I had opened about notching the frame, and I just particularly studied the frame and engine mount work you did.
I didn't see, or maybe I should say didn't recognize, where the changes you made to the motor stands would lower the engine any. I noticed you moved them forward. I saw more content about notching for the A/C than clearance, but that was covered.
So, I have revived that old thread with a question for another poster, not sure he'll see it. I've been discussing with Gofast on my build thread in the other forum about this topic. I am struggling with how I am to lower the engine, ie what motor stands to use to get the engine lower. I already have 1/4" plates that the chevy motor mounts bolt to. Can't gain much more there. I'm thinking I need lower stands.
Just curious how you got the engine lower on yours, and if you have measured your angles yet at the tranny and driveshaft.
On some off topic subject...
I see you live in Independence, MO. I lived in Independence from 1973 through 1988. From '74 through '83 I had a '34 Ford Four Door Deluxe. I built it in the garage in front of it in the picture.
I had an ice cream store then in the shopping center across from HiBoys on Independence Avenue, next to the Donut Shop. I sold it to a guy that had a Movie Rental business next door. Both are long gone now.
Thinking of Independence brings back old memories...
03-19-2017, 10:13 PM
#271
Since I decided to go ahead and put a back seat in the car, I had to find one. This proved to be a lot harder than I thought, but I was able to finally track one down with some help from another forum. Now it's been pretty nice around here for February, so me in my infinite wisdom ( 
) decided to hop in the old trusty Rusty and make a 225 mile one way trek to Iowa on the worst possible day! It was cold and snowy but I got the seat and some trim parts off of this cream puff.
) decided to hop in the old trusty Rusty and make a 225 mile one way trek to Iowa on the worst possible day! It was cold and snowy but I got the seat and some trim parts off of this cream puff.Also subscribed.
03-20-2017, 10:11 PM
#272
Thanks!
Yeah, I ended up just trying to fire it up. Notice I said 'try'......
I know they are rare, no telling how many are left, but it cant be many. That said, there are two others within 5 miles of me. 
My buddy has one that I helped him put a 5.3 in, then his son bought one and I again got to help put a 5.3 in that one too. The plan is to have all 3 of them at the Back to the Fifties car show in June, so that's my deadline....
I have not dialed in my ride height so I really cant say what my angles are, but from the other two 59's I helped work on, just using the factory V8 engine stands with adapters to mount the mounts has worked out well. The reason I notch the crossmembers isn't to lower the engine any more, but to gain clearance between the oil pan and crossmember. Without any notching, and the V8 stands and adapters, you can only get a piece of paper between the two. Do you really need to lower the engine more than that? If you do, the oil pan will be lower than the crossmember, right now mine are exactly even.
I really like the '34, but don't remember ever seeing it around. That was definitely a 70's resto-rod! What part of Independence did you live in? That Hiboy is only a couple of miles from me.
Good eye! That's where it was.
Super project-I swear I never saw a 59 2 dr wagon back in the day, and I am an old fart, lol
The LS engine can be a bear to get oil pressure, I now pack the pump with trans. assemb. grease, seems to help the suction on start up.
Be interesting to see how that TB setup works, 2 barl, lol
The LS engine can be a bear to get oil pressure, I now pack the pump with trans. assemb. grease, seems to help the suction on start up.
Be interesting to see how that TB setup works, 2 barl, lol
I always just fire them up. getting a gerotor to draw oil can be a hassle at the 3-400 rpm your starter makes. plus running the starter for >20sec is really hard on it.
melling recommends pulling the oil galley allen bolt on the drivers front/side of the block and back filling it with oil, but I haven't ever been able to get that plug out lol
melling recommends pulling the oil galley allen bolt on the drivers front/side of the block and back filling it with oil, but I haven't ever been able to get that plug out lol
Same here, I had to look up the numbers. Chart shows 20,720 2-dr wagons built in '59 and I can't remember ever seeing one. Wonder how many are left?
My buddy has one that I helped him put a 5.3 in, then his son bought one and I again got to help put a 5.3 in that one too. The plan is to have all 3 of them at the Back to the Fifties car show in June, so that's my deadline....I just browsed through your whole thread, did quite a bit of reading. Very interesting work and build.
I recall your replies back in the thread I had opened about notching the frame, and I just particularly studied the frame and engine mount work you did.
I didn't see, or maybe I should say didn't recognize, where the changes you made to the motor stands would lower the engine any. I noticed you moved them forward. I saw more content about notching for the A/C than clearance, but that was covered.
So, I have revived that old thread with a question for another poster, not sure he'll see it. I've been discussing with Gofast on my build thread in the other forum about this topic. I am struggling with how I am to lower the engine, ie what motor stands to use to get the engine lower. I already have 1/4" plates that the chevy motor mounts bolt to. Can't gain much more there. I'm thinking I need lower stands.
Just curious how you got the engine lower on yours, and if you have measured your angles yet at the tranny and driveshaft.
On some off topic subject...
I see you live in Independence, MO. I lived in Independence from 1973 through 1988. From '74 through '83 I had a '34 Ford Four Door Deluxe. I built it in the garage in front of it in the picture.
I had an ice cream store then in the shopping center across from HiBoys on Independence Avenue, next to the Donut Shop. I sold it to a guy that had a Movie Rental business next door. Both are long gone now.
Thinking of Independence brings back old memories...
I recall your replies back in the thread I had opened about notching the frame, and I just particularly studied the frame and engine mount work you did.
I didn't see, or maybe I should say didn't recognize, where the changes you made to the motor stands would lower the engine any. I noticed you moved them forward. I saw more content about notching for the A/C than clearance, but that was covered.
So, I have revived that old thread with a question for another poster, not sure he'll see it. I've been discussing with Gofast on my build thread in the other forum about this topic. I am struggling with how I am to lower the engine, ie what motor stands to use to get the engine lower. I already have 1/4" plates that the chevy motor mounts bolt to. Can't gain much more there. I'm thinking I need lower stands.
Just curious how you got the engine lower on yours, and if you have measured your angles yet at the tranny and driveshaft.
On some off topic subject...
I see you live in Independence, MO. I lived in Independence from 1973 through 1988. From '74 through '83 I had a '34 Ford Four Door Deluxe. I built it in the garage in front of it in the picture.
I had an ice cream store then in the shopping center across from HiBoys on Independence Avenue, next to the Donut Shop. I sold it to a guy that had a Movie Rental business next door. Both are long gone now.
Thinking of Independence brings back old memories...
I really like the '34, but don't remember ever seeing it around. That was definitely a 70's resto-rod! What part of Independence did you live in? That Hiboy is only a couple of miles from me.
Good eye! That's where it was.
03-20-2017, 10:35 PM
#273
Well, yesterday was a pretty good day. I got up early and hit the Pick n Pull, the TAC was still on the Tahoe, so I grabbed it, the pedal and the jumper harness just to be sure. Out the door for $30, didn't think that was too bad. Came home and hooked up the '04 TAC, cleared the codes, and the throttle was working! Cool! So I then realized I had bought the wrong plug wires. I bought some for either points or HEI type distributors. Totally didn't think I guess, as they wont fit LS coils.... So, I'm going to have to find the correct ends..... I REALLY wanted to try and fire this thing, so I took some junk wires and took the ends off of them, and temporarily crimped them on the wires. That should work, no problem! So, after hooking up the fuel pump wires temporarily I turned the key and primed the fuel system. Found 3 leaks, tightened up the compression fittings and was good to go. I cranked the engine over and it sputtered, but that was all. Some more cranking and it would fire and instantly die. Now my first thought is the power is going away when I let off the key since I have heard of this problem using older ignition switches, but I know this cant be the case because I have checked it several times, but, I jump the ignition relay just in case. Same scenario, fires and dies. Hmmmm, maybe the VATs hasn't actually been turned off, so grab a PCM I know it is off in, and try that. Starts and dies. This whole time I'm watching my oil pressure gauge that still shows nada....
Ok, get the scanner back out and see if there are any codes that would stop it from running. I'm thinking MAF, but I know better, they will start without that. So I see one DTC for MAP. Easy enough, throw on another MAP sensor. Exactly the same, start and die. The code wont erase either, its a hard set code. The only option now it the wiring got fubard at some point. Ugh, I hate trying to find wiring problems, but it's only 3 wires and they are only about 3 feet long, so I get out the schematic and find what pins the MAP wires are on, pull the connector off the PCM and pull the blue cover off. As soon as I do I see a pin that isn't seated, check it out and it's the 5v reference for the MAP! Push it back in bolt everything up and try to start knowing damn well it's going to fire up now. Hit the key, fires and dies. 
Ahhh, clear the code, and try it again and....she roared to life and the oil pressure jumps to about 50psi! 
This is a terrible video of the second start.
I bought some for either points or HEI type distributors. Totally didn't think I guess, as they wont fit LS coils.... So, I'm going to have to find the correct ends..... I REALLY wanted to try and fire this thing, so I took some junk wires and took the ends off of them, and temporarily crimped them on the wires. That should work, no problem! So, after hooking up the fuel pump wires temporarily I turned the key and primed the fuel system. Found 3 leaks, tightened up the compression fittings and was good to go. I cranked the engine over and it sputtered, but that was all. Some more cranking and it would fire and instantly die. Now my first thought is the power is going away when I let off the key since I have heard of this problem using older ignition switches, but I know this cant be the case because I have checked it several times, but, I jump the ignition relay just in case. Same scenario, fires and dies. Hmmmm, maybe the VATs hasn't actually been turned off, so grab a PCM I know it is off in, and try that. Starts and dies. This whole time I'm watching my oil pressure gauge that still shows nada....Ok, get the scanner back out and see if there are any codes that would stop it from running. I'm thinking MAF, but I know better, they will start without that. So I see one DTC for MAP. Easy enough, throw on another MAP sensor. Exactly the same, start and die. The code wont erase either, its a hard set code. The only option now it the wiring got fubard at some point. Ugh, I hate trying to find wiring problems, but it's only 3 wires and they are only about 3 feet long, so I get out the schematic and find what pins the MAP wires are on, pull the connector off the PCM and pull the blue cover off. As soon as I do I see a pin that isn't seated, check it out and it's the 5v reference for the MAP! Push it back in bolt everything up and try to start knowing damn well it's going to fire up now.
Hit the key, fires and dies. Ahhh, clear the code, and try it again and....she roared to life and the oil pressure jumps to about 50psi! This is a terrible video of the second start.Last edited by ls1nova71; 03-20-2017 at 10:48 PM.
03-20-2017, 11:16 PM
#274
awesome
on the plug wire iirc i bought a set of taylor cut to length wires and you can buy a set of lt1 style ends that work with the ls truck coils... i can probably dig up a p/n if you need.
id be curious to see if an off the shelf set of lt1 wires would work in your case, seems like they'd be pretty close length just running in the oppostie direction.
on the plug wire iirc i bought a set of taylor cut to length wires and you can buy a set of lt1 style ends that work with the ls truck coils... i can probably dig up a p/n if you need.
id be curious to see if an off the shelf set of lt1 wires would work in your case, seems like they'd be pretty close length just running in the oppostie direction.
03-21-2017, 07:18 AM
#276
I lived at the corner of Waldo and Chrysler.
After I posted, I wondered if the Hiboy even still existed.
Congratulations on the startup. I don't think I have ever done a build where it just started on the first attempt. I get a kick out of the first quick turn of a key on the car build shows that always fire 'em right up
The start up on my '61 was problematic due to fuel pressure.
I have not dialed in my ride height so I really cant say what my angles are, but from the other two 59's I helped work on, just using the factory V8 engine stands with adapters to mount the mounts has worked out well. The reason I notch the crossmembers isn't to lower the engine any more, but to gain clearance between the oil pan and crossmember. Without any notching, and the V8 stands and adapters, you can only get a piece of paper between the two. Do you really need to lower the engine more than that? If you do, the oil pan will be lower than the crossmember, right now mine are exactly even.
03-21-2017, 11:22 AM
#278
Congrats. It seems like you've done this a few times. LOL. It prolly doesn't even put a smile on your face anymore.
When you first started this thread, I thought it was going to be a simple toss in a LS powertrain and drive it. I should of known you'd make it nice with a lot of cool ideas.
When I grow up, I want to have your ability. LOL
When you first started this thread, I thought it was going to be a simple toss in a LS powertrain and drive it. I should of known you'd make it nice with a lot of cool ideas.
When I grow up, I want to have your ability. LOL
