Tips for gas tank fabrication
Tips for gas tank fabrication I'm about to go about fabbing up a stainless tank for my 63 chevy II wagon. My leaf springs have been moved inward so a off the shelf tank is out of the question and I'm not paying the big bucks for a custom Ricks tank or similar. I'll be welding in a sump plate like Tank Inc sells as I'm using their retro efi setup. I'm basically copying the tank already in the car but making it a little bigger and nicer. Not real concerned about the welding or fabbing as that's right up my alley but my questions are what's the best way to vent the tank so it fills with gas well? The tank currently in the car takes forever to fill because I think it was over baffled and perhaps the fill tube was to low coming into the side of the tank. Just looking for people's opinions and experience on this matter. Thanks
Last edited by showdog75; Jan 21, 2017 at 09:27 AM.
regarding the filling vent, you could probably run a hose/line to a fitting at the highest point of the tank to the filler neck about 3/4 the way up so the vapors can purge while filling but if it gets too full the line will just drain down the filler neck.
if you wanted to get fancy you could put some sort of float ball at the tank fitting so it closes when the fuel level is high enough.
I think this is how factory setups do it...always a good place to look for ideas.
if you wanted to get fancy you could put some sort of float ball at the tank fitting so it closes when the fuel level is high enough.
I think this is how factory setups do it...always a good place to look for ideas.
You know if you use a stock style fuel bucket you don't need much in the way of tank baffling and won't need the sump? The fuel buckets have one way valves and siphon pumps that keep the fuel in the bucket even when the rest of the tank is near dry.
I have debated for years how best to sump my tank but when learned how the stock fuel buckets actually work it baffles me why people build such elaborate baffle systems.
As for fill vents do what 350SS said, T in a vent at the high points to the fill tube. Keep in mind the car might not be sitting perfectly level so if the tank is at all U shaped or if you have a fill tube on one side than be sure and run a vent line to the other.
Getting rid of excess baffling will help with this.
I have debated for years how best to sump my tank but when learned how the stock fuel buckets actually work it baffles me why people build such elaborate baffle systems.
As for fill vents do what 350SS said, T in a vent at the high points to the fill tube. Keep in mind the car might not be sitting perfectly level so if the tank is at all U shaped or if you have a fill tube on one side than be sure and run a vent line to the other.
Getting rid of excess baffling will help with this.
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You know if you use a stock style fuel bucket you don't need much in the way of tank baffling and won't need the sump? The fuel buckets have one way valves and siphon pumps that keep the fuel in the bucket even when the rest of the tank is near dry.
I have debated for years how best to sump my tank but when learned how the stock fuel buckets actually work it baffles me why people build such elaborate baffle systems.
I have debated for years how best to sump my tank but when learned how the stock fuel buckets actually work it baffles me why people build such elaborate baffle systems.
Do you have any links or point me to some info on how the stock tank/bucket system works? I'm interested in learning more.
Thanks,
Andy1
X2 on the fuel bucket idea, they work great and dont require baffling at all. I have used them in the past with good results. Just put one out of a 2002 Tahoe in my 59 wagon tank, just had to recess it a bit to clear the floor. Just find one that fits your tank depth and you're good. They also are spring loaded so that there is usually a couple if inches that they can vary in height which is nice. There's pics of mine in my 59 wagon build thread if you want to see how I did mine. Good luck with your project.. and post up some pics of your car if you can, wagons are cool.
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3x on factory bucket...I was going to suggest it last night but I thought you seemed set on doing it a different way.
I adapted a 4th gen LS1 bucket in my 78 tank, works flawless. If you have welding skills, I'd buy a new factory tank, weld a recess to fit bucket, adapt it like mine. Only issue is fuel bucket lines hitting floor. There are ways you could shorten the bucket and gain a few inches. I was able to keep mine uncut, compressed it to the max...using the vette works adapter. Again, if you have welding skills...you are going to be ok! I paid a friend/coworker
who is an awesome welder.
I don't have a lot of build pics but I can send you a link to someone who did a similar build.
I adapted a 4th gen LS1 bucket in my 78 tank, works flawless. If you have welding skills, I'd buy a new factory tank, weld a recess to fit bucket, adapt it like mine. Only issue is fuel bucket lines hitting floor. There are ways you could shorten the bucket and gain a few inches. I was able to keep mine uncut, compressed it to the max...using the vette works adapter. Again, if you have welding skills...you are going to be ok! I paid a friend/coworker
who is an awesome welder.
I don't have a lot of build pics but I can send you a link to someone who did a similar build.
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Verdad Gallardo I'm not set on any particular way but I do already have the Tank's Inc stuff. It uses a Walbro pump which is a known quality pump. I'm new to all this LS swap stuff but it is obvious the factory bucket is probably the way to go. Ls1Nova71 do you know if the 2002 Tahoe pump you used would fit in a 8" tank? I'd still like a suggestion on what a baffle should look like and consist of. I thought not only would a baffle prevent fuel sloshing but provide some structural integrity to the tank.
The tiny "sump area" of the tanks inc would scare me. The fuel in your tank also cools your pump ( submersed all of the time). The tanks kit cannot give you that. Why spend big bucks on baffling and have not work well sometimes? Lots of stories here and other sites (2nd gen fbody) about people "sastified with fuel system but cannot go below 1/2 tank" , really? I'd hate if I had to get fuel at 1/2 tank every time! The factory bucket eliminates the need for baffling. Sucking air shortens the life of fuel pumps too. The series of check ***** used in the fuel bucket prevent any air from being sucked in.
http://nastyz28.com/forum/threads/ls....209472/page-3
Good thread, describes the parts of the fuel bucket and how it works. Good luck!
Please do post pics..wagons are cool.
Good thread, describes the parts of the fuel bucket and how it works. Good luck!
Please do post pics..wagons are cool.
I'm not set on any particular way but I do already have the Tank's Inc stuff. It uses a Walbro pump which is a known quality pump. I'm new to all this LS swap stuff but it is obvious the factory bucket is probably the way to go. Ls1Nova71 do you know if the 2002 Tahoe pump you used would fit in a 8" tank? I'd still like a suggestion on what a baffle should look like and consist of. I thought not only would a baffle prevent fuel sloshing but provide some structural integrity to the tank.
This picture shows the fuel path. The pump draws fuel from inside the bucket. There are two fuel inlets from the tank to the bucket. Item 6 is an inlet check valve and 4 is the siphon pump inlet that uses part of the pump flow to suck gas into the bucket. Also linked to a video.
Someone on here recommended just getting a new one from a late model flex fuel vehicle. They come in all different heights and the flex fuel units have oversided pumps. They really vary in price as well.
Vetteworks sells an adapter ring that lots of guys use.
http://www.vetteworksonline.net/cata...products_id=89
I wanted to run one on my carb'd vehicle but some somebody said carb pressures will not provide enough back pressure for the siphon pump to keep the bucket full. Suckage.
Last edited by Pop N Wood; Jan 22, 2017 at 09:57 AM.
I've welded on quite a few tanks and imo wash,wash,wash, and wash again. I first rinse out the residual gas with hot water then use dish detergent with hot water. Keep cleaning tIl you smell no fumes. I also purge with argon. Whenever I vent the purge after a few minutes of purging before I weld I simply take a lighter and light it at the purge vent. I've never had any trouble but be honest with yourself and if you smell the slightest fuel odor don't weld, wash again.
