'85 C10 LS1/4l80e
Sub'd
I'm building a LS1 w/hairdryer to drop into a yet to be procured '85 C10 SWB styleside... I live in NH and will travel to AZ or TX to find what I want. Based on the searches I have done picking up a styleside in my $$ range might be as easy as finding a unicorn.
This truck is killer, nice setup.
Curious why you went with the Vette filter vs building a return system?
And the tank, a few pics mounted would really help, are you going to run a fuel tray or something to defeat slosh?
I'm building a LS1 w/hairdryer to drop into a yet to be procured '85 C10 SWB styleside... I live in NH and will travel to AZ or TX to find what I want. Based on the searches I have done picking up a styleside in my $$ range might be as easy as finding a unicorn.
This truck is killer, nice setup.
Curious why you went with the Vette filter vs building a return system?
And the tank, a few pics mounted would really help, are you going to run a fuel tray or something to defeat slosh?
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,295
Likes: 3,617
From: Central Cal.
The Vette filter/regulator IS a return system. Pressure is regulated close to the tank and the return line is thus VERY short between the regulator and tank. Eliminates a lot of tubing/hose.
Sub'd
I'm building a LS1 w/hairdryer to drop into a yet to be procured '85 C10 SWB styleside... I live in NH and will travel to AZ or TX to find what I want. Based on the searches I have done picking up a styleside in my $$ range might be as easy as finding a unicorn.
This truck is killer, nice setup.
Curious why you went with the Vette filter vs building a return system?
And the tank, a few pics mounted would really help, are you going to run a fuel tray or something to defeat slosh?
I'm building a LS1 w/hairdryer to drop into a yet to be procured '85 C10 SWB styleside... I live in NH and will travel to AZ or TX to find what I want. Based on the searches I have done picking up a styleside in my $$ range might be as easy as finding a unicorn.
This truck is killer, nice setup.
Curious why you went with the Vette filter vs building a return system?
And the tank, a few pics mounted would really help, are you going to run a fuel tray or something to defeat slosh?
The ‘87+ K5 Blazer/Suburban tanks have an enternal baffle inside. The tank is spectra premium brand, so is the sending unit. The pump is a Walbro 255. Let me see if I can upload a pic of the baffle inside the tank.
The ‘87+ K5 Blazer/Suburban tanks have an enternal baffle inside. The tank is spectra premium brand, so is the sending unit. The pump is a Walbro 255. Let me see if I can upload a pic of the baffle inside the tank.
As for the return system, my fuel rails don’t have the return on them. So my feed will run from the sending unit to the Vette filter/regulator. The return line will run back from the Vette filter/regulator back to the sending unit. One feed line will run from the filter/regulator to the fuel rails.
As for the return system, my fuel rails don’t have the return on them. So my feed will run from the sending unit to the Vette filter/regulator. The return line will run back from the Vette filter/regulator back to the sending unit. One feed line will run from the filter/regulator to the fuel rails.
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I only had one day off in March, so this week off I tried to get some stuff done. I rebuilt and repainted an ‘85-‘87 grille. For the first time since I’ve owned it and no telling how long before that, it has an original grille. I used parts off of several junk yard grilles and painted it with VHT rallye wheel paint. I also used the same paint on the headlight bezels. I used vinyl on the horizontal stainless trim pieces that are body color. Originally they used a similar method from the factory. I am still waiting on some new marker lenses for to put behind the grille for it to be completely finished.
Yesterday I started mounting the Ridetech frame stiffners for the front. Several holes have to be drilled in the frame and 4 in the crossmember.
Today I was able to get the bed off and thrown onto my trailer. I took the time to get the old fuel tank out. I drilled a hole in the frame and mounted the fuel filter/regulator. I need to roll it into the shop and use an air chisel to remove rivets on the two rear braces. The one towards the rearend is the spare tire mount. I plan on moving the one towards the rear all the way back. Both braces will be used to mount the blazer/‘burben tank.
I still have to install the 4l80e, Circle D stall, Lokar shifter linkage, Wilwood D52 front calipers, SSBC rotors, Schoenfeld headers, and several other parts I have lying around. I ordered Ridetech Strong Arms and coilovers for the front. I am ready to get everything thrown onto the truck!
Today I was able to get the bed off and thrown onto my trailer. I took the time to get the old fuel tank out. I drilled a hole in the frame and mounted the fuel filter/regulator. I need to roll it into the shop and use an air chisel to remove rivets on the two rear braces. The one towards the rearend is the spare tire mount. I plan on moving the one towards the rear all the way back. Both braces will be used to mount the blazer/‘burben tank.
I still have to install the 4l80e, Circle D stall, Lokar shifter linkage, Wilwood D52 front calipers, SSBC rotors, Schoenfeld headers, and several other parts I have lying around. I ordered Ridetech Strong Arms and coilovers for the front. I am ready to get everything thrown onto the truck!
Last night I finally got the StrongArms/Coilover kit from Ridetech. I received their 2.5” drop spindles a few weeks ago to replace the DJM spindles I have currently. The DJM Spindles have 0 miles on them but I wanted to use Ridetechs to go with their kit.
A few weeks ago I got the Shoenfeld headers on. The fitment on the passenger side was fine. Driver side... not so much. Had to grind on the inner frame rail, grind on the clam shell motor mount and beat the crap out of the second primary from the front to clear. These are not good ls swap headers and I don’t recommend them. One could argue that adapter plates could make a difference, but my engine can not go any further back without moving the firewall. If the engine moves forward, the second primary on the header will still not clear the clam shell motor mount unless a bigger notch is cut out a head of time. The only other solution would be to pick the engine up taller but then my 4l80e would hit the cab floor. Don’t buy the 1302LS1 headers from Schoenfeld... easy solution.
That’s right! I finally pulled the 60e out and got the 80e in! Along with the Circle D stall and TCI Flexplate. I tried using ARP torque convertor bolts but they didn’t fit without the heads of the bolts hitting bolts on the rear main seal cover(if that’s what it’s called). The goofy allen head bolts that came off the 60e wouldn’t work either, so I used the bolts that came with the flexplate from TCI.
I also took an air hammer to the rivets on the frame rail to move the rear support and spare tire hanger. I have to move both of these in order to mount the K5 Blazer/Suburban fuel tank. I took the time to go ahead and paint as much of the rails as I could with POR15. Still have some more to do but so far it’s turning out great!
A few weeks ago I got the Shoenfeld headers on. The fitment on the passenger side was fine. Driver side... not so much. Had to grind on the inner frame rail, grind on the clam shell motor mount and beat the crap out of the second primary from the front to clear. These are not good ls swap headers and I don’t recommend them. One could argue that adapter plates could make a difference, but my engine can not go any further back without moving the firewall. If the engine moves forward, the second primary on the header will still not clear the clam shell motor mount unless a bigger notch is cut out a head of time. The only other solution would be to pick the engine up taller but then my 4l80e would hit the cab floor. Don’t buy the 1302LS1 headers from Schoenfeld... easy solution.
That’s right! I finally pulled the 60e out and got the 80e in! Along with the Circle D stall and TCI Flexplate. I tried using ARP torque convertor bolts but they didn’t fit without the heads of the bolts hitting bolts on the rear main seal cover(if that’s what it’s called). The goofy allen head bolts that came off the 60e wouldn’t work either, so I used the bolts that came with the flexplate from TCI.
I also took an air hammer to the rivets on the frame rail to move the rear support and spare tire hanger. I have to move both of these in order to mount the K5 Blazer/Suburban fuel tank. I took the time to go ahead and paint as much of the rails as I could with POR15. Still have some more to do but so far it’s turning out great!
