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Well - guess your HP and then plug hp/weight into one of the online calculators. Then add 1/2-1 second to the time for lack of traction/driving skills!
My SCCA racer did that once - turned out to be a rearend problem that caused vibration which ultimately cracked the tailhousing.
I'm going to start with a torque arm relocation kit because it should be done anyhow. If it does it again I'll definitely be looking for rear end issues. What was the problem with yours?
Was able to get a visual on the damage today. Tailhousing is smoked big time. Lol. I think I may have an insufficient amount of the slip yoke going into the back of the transmission. I didn't measure or anything, but it looked like I have a good 1.5 inches of the slip yoke showing. I'm going to investigate that and add a chassis mounted torque arm set up. Hopefully that will keep this from happening again
Was able to get a visual on the damage today. Tailhousing is smoked big time. Lol. I think I may have an insufficient amount of the slip yoke going into the back of the transmission. I didn't measure or anything, but it looked like I have a good 1.5 inches of the slip yoke showing. I'm going to investigate that and add a chassis mounted torque arm set up. Hopefully that will keep this from happening again
That will do it...You only need the driveshaft to be short enough to install it...any shorter and you are asking for trouble.
Pulled the driveshaft for a measurement. I have 2.25 inches into the transmission and 1.50 inches out of the transmission. I need .75 of end play to be able to seat the u joints into the pinion yoke. So really this shaft is about .75 short of perfect. Is .75 enough to worry about in ths case?
Pulled the driveshaft for a measurement. I have 2.25 inches into the transmission and 1.50 inches out of the transmission. I need .75 of end play to be able to seat the u joints into the pinion yoke. So really this shaft is about .75 short of perfect. Is .75 enough to worry about in ths case?
Its been a while since this was updated. After examining the car closely it became apparent there was two obvious problems. Problem one was obviously a slightly short driveshaft as was discussed in the preceding posts. The solution to that problem was a custom driveshaft from Gaumers Engineering in Chambersburg PA. I highly recommend them, they are nice people. The second problem was u joints angles. The working angle of the front u joint was 3*. The working angle of the rear joint was 1/2*. I feel pretty confident that those angles are to far apart, far enough to cause serious bind. The semi permanent solution to this problem was to shim the rear of the transmission up. I was able to raise the tailshaft enough to reduce the working angle in the front to about 1 1/2*. This also had the affect of raising the rear angle to about 1.15*.
I know the angles aren't optimal. But I feel like they are close enough that it shouldnt harm anything.
Optimally - angles are less than 2 degrees and equal but opposite. That is - if the engine/tranny is angled down in the back, the pinion is angled up at the same angle. If you've got both ends pointing correctly (tranny down, pinion up) then I'd think 1.2 and 1.5 should work ok. Mine worked out at 1.7 down tranny, 1.8 up pinion.
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