How to make the LS1 alternator 1 wire?
How to make the LS1 alternator 1 wire? Hello. I'll be using a standalone in an RX7 (FC) LS1 swap. Is it possible to make the stock LS1/GEN III alternator simply a 1 wire setup? I heard the '98 models need a resistor on some wire, but the '99+ versions don't.
Thanks
Ben
Thanks
Ben
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 841
Likes: 2
From: Tampa, FL
Even the 99+ wires can be made to work with one wire and a resistor.
Just put a 470 Ohm resistor in line with pin B of the Alternator connector. Connect the other side of the wire to a 12V ignition source, and that's it.
So... 12V ign - 470 Ohm resistor - Pin B on the alternator connector.
Just put a 470 Ohm resistor in line with pin B of the Alternator connector. Connect the other side of the wire to a 12V ignition source, and that's it.
So... 12V ign - 470 Ohm resistor - Pin B on the alternator connector.
I would also like to know how to hook it up. I am not using any of the ls1 wiring harness in my ultima, but need to hook up the stock alternator that came with the 98 vette motor. Can somebody explain how to do it.
mark
mark
Thanks Thanks- 2 wires are fine with me...that'll work just fine with my standalone.
Ben
Ben
Originally Posted by Jones'n
Even the 99+ wires can be made to work with one wire and a resistor.
Just put a 470 Ohm resistor in line with pin B of the Alternator connector. Connect the other side of the wire to a 12V ignition source, and that's it.
So... 12V ign - 470 Ohm resistor - Pin B on the alternator connector.
Just put a 470 Ohm resistor in line with pin B of the Alternator connector. Connect the other side of the wire to a 12V ignition source, and that's it.
So... 12V ign - 470 Ohm resistor - Pin B on the alternator connector.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, Floorida
Originally Posted by RX-Ben
Hello. I'll be using a standalone in an RX7 (FC) LS1 swap. Is it possible to make the stock LS1/GEN III alternator simply a 1 wire setup? I heard the '98 models need a resistor on some wire, but the '99+ versions don't.
Thanks
Ben
Thanks
Ben
Not related to your question, but how hard is the squeeze in the RX7? that particular car is on my list of frame candidates.
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On The Tree
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: London, UK
There is one threaded stud on my alternator which I presume hooks to the positive terminal on the battery. There is an earth strap which I presume hooks to the chassis/block. What is all this about a resistor?
Is this diagram correct?
Is this diagram correct?
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Verdad Gallardo The LS1 fits in pretty easily. Despite the popular myths- the rotary engine with turbo is big and heavy. Swapping in an LS1 doesn't change the weight distribution. www.hinsonsupercars.com makes a kit to do it- costs $360 for the mounts but you need some other parts (driveshaft, radiator, wire harness, fuel setup). Not a drop in swap (like swapping engines between Hondas and Acuras), but it doesn't look hard. I have the engine and the mount kit and I'll be dropping the engine in at the end of the month.
Thanks-Ben
Thanks-Ben
Originally Posted by Biomechanoid
Not related to your question, but how hard is the squeeze in the RX7? that particular car is on my list of frame candidates.
My alternator is being converted from the stock '98 model to a true one wire (no exciter wire) by a local electric motor rebuilder. He is also upping output from stock 102-105 to around 140. I am paying around $180 for this.
I should have the part back tomorrow. I can take pictures or ask my builder questions if need be.
I should have the part back tomorrow. I can take pictures or ask my builder questions if need be.
So I only need to hook #3 up to a switched 12volt source. Do I need to put a resistor inline? What gauge wire to I need to run from the alt to the battery? Do I need to ground the alternator or will it ground through the motor? Sorry for all the questions.
The thing filled with beads in a ? plug, can't remember the name but it replaces the spark plugs and is filled with moisture absorbing beads. It's is supposed to help keep the motor from rusting when the engine is sitting for long periods of time.
Mark
The thing filled with beads in a ? plug, can't remember the name but it replaces the spark plugs and is filled with moisture absorbing beads. It's is supposed to help keep the motor from rusting when the engine is sitting for long periods of time.
Mark
I put a resister in line with the exciter wire. Its supposed to simulate a light bulb in the circuit. I guess the alternator will burn up over time if it isnt in there. Thats what I read on here quite a while ago.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: San Jose, CA
FWIW, I called Plainless and asked them . . .
I'm using their engine and chassis harness.
for the f-body alternator, probably others too, you use wires 2 and 3.
both get connected to the exciter wire, but wire 3 needs a 15ohm 2W resistor inline.
painless has a connector they sell, with a pink and brown wire, the brown wire gets the resistor.
I'm using their engine and chassis harness.
for the f-body alternator, probably others too, you use wires 2 and 3.
both get connected to the exciter wire, but wire 3 needs a 15ohm 2W resistor inline.
painless has a connector they sell, with a pink and brown wire, the brown wire gets the resistor.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 319
Likes: 0
From: NH
The 98 needs the resistor because it simulates the load from the original dash's dummy light. As Lesrace stated, you will burn up the alternator without it. The 99+ didn't work that way. No resistor is needed.