Hey everyone, first post here. Let me know if this is in the wrong section.

I have an 03 5.3 going into my 65 el camino. Been exploring options regarding whether to use an internal or external pump. If I keep my original tank, I'll have to get a hydramat, which I don't really want to do. Would really prefer to have the pump in-tank.

I came across a tank in a 94 F150 with a 300 six that has MPFI. Tank sits between the frame rails where you'd normally store the spare tire. It is close in shape and dimensions to my stock 65 tank. I can get it for close to nothing, so I'd really like to use it. My question lies on fuel pressure. I know the engine needs 57 PSI. Looking up a pump for the Ford tank on Oreilly's website, it shows the "max" pressure as 45 PSI and static pressure at 123 PSI. My question is, is this pump capable of 57 PSI? The static pressure is more than double the "max" which makes me think it is capable of it. Here's a link to the pump if it's useful. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0401&ppt=C0025

I'm new to the world of electronic fuel pumps and everything, so I just need some guidance before I purchase something that isn't useful to me.

Thanks!

 

Yeah, wrong section. I'll move it though.

 

If the tank fits, you can always just replace the pump itself with something like a Walbro 255, or even a 190.

Andrew

 

Go internal pump. Why not use the 5.3l fuel pump/bucket that came with the engine? GM designed it go work with that engine! You simply mount the OEM bucket via vetteworks.com ( under fuel). This is what I did 4 years ago. No issues, no baffling, no spitting/sputtering...all the way down to 1/8 tank. New tank, used fuel bucket (eBay), new pump for piece of mind, vetteworks kit, Welding.. I bet I have $200-$250 in it all. Ricks tank? Very nice but pricey. Hydromat is not cheap either. GM factory pump/bucket has pump and fuel pressure regulator built in.

I am not familiar with that el Camino fuel tank, but look at tank and see how much clearance on top of the tank there is. This is the biggest issue. You may need to pay someone ( if you can't fabricate) to make a recess in the top of the tank. To be safe, I'd buy a new fuel tank. You can weld in a used tank, but I feel it is best to just start new.

 

I noticed that Tanks, inc. has a direct replacement fuel injection ready tank for $225. By all means go with an in-tank pump. I like to use stuff that is available over the counter so that, in case of failure on a trip, a replacement is right around the corner.

 

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Andew, thanks for that idea. I might wind up doing that.

Leon, I'll have to research this. Are you talking about installing a sump at the bottom of the tank or are you talking about a stock truck fuel pump that has (idk if it does) a reservoir built into it? I didn't figure the pump out of the truck would fit in the elky tank and I didn't have access to it when I bought it. I think the clearance and all at the top of the tank will be about right. I can do some fabricating if needed.

33willys, I saw that tank and it's really nice and not very expensive, but after you add $225 for the tank, $210 for the pump and $35 for the sending unit, it gets pricy.

My other idea was to put a hydramat in the tank, and run a pump setup of of a Mercedes 190e. They have en external Bosch dual pump setup that is reliable and they're quiet.

The reason I was considering the Ford tank is because I can get it for like $15. Figured it was cheap enough to experiment with.

 

Hot rodding is all about trying things. I say go for the 15 dollar ford tank and give it a try.

 

No sump needed. The fuel bucket IS your sump. ALL OEM tanks use this simple bucket that the pump sets in. The bucket is (99% time) full of fuel. This serves a few purposes....1- keeps pump cool 2- pump is relatively quiet (esp compared to an external) 3- if your fuel level in the tank is low and you corner, the fuel moves away from pickup right? Well in that instance, the fuel bucket has a series of check ***** that prevent the pump from sucking air. Air is bad for pumps. As you are into this hard long corner, the fuel pump automatically takes fuel from the bucket. As soon as you come out if corner, the return line to bucket replaces the fuel you just used. A return line is needed. I find it hard to believe the tank inc bucket can hold enough fuel in a corner/ low fuel application. I'm not trying to start an argument with happy tank inc owners. Pictures I've seen show a little pan... Not sure if that has been changed/updated.

Check out my build, the documentation is not awesome like a lot of guys here....I do have a short write up on the tank work near the end. Sounds like you are on a budget...if you buy a new tank, fab a way to mount OEM 5.3 bucket (yourself or vetteworks), you literally have A TON of fuel buckets in salvage yards or an OEM off the shelf replacement part all over the country at any parts store. Another way to save money is to replace the 1965 el Camino fuel lines with the nylon OEM from GM trucks (GM used them on the 5.3, right? Of course they will work for you).

If tank height is an issue, you can shorten the fuel bucket some. I didn't need to shorten mine but it is fully compressed. Not sure how much room is above your tank. In an el Camino, I'd imagine there is more than enough room but I'm not sure.

Here is pic of bucket ( fbody-LS1 but it's the same concept as the 5.3 one).



http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0ab9db11.jpg

 

Thanks for the info! I knew some pumps had their own reservoir, but I didn't know the trucks did. I'll check my yard in the next few days and see what I can come up with. I've thought of using the factory nylon lines and I just might. For some reason though, having soft lines running the length of the car just seems like a recipe for disaster.

I will definitely check out your build. I am on a budget, being a 19 y/o college kid. I have just about everything I need minus the fuel pump setup, lines/hoses, o2 sensors, corvette FPR/filter, and mass air flow sensor. Also need to send the computer off and have vats and all the other unnecessary stuff removed.

I've had the tank out before and there isn't much of any room above the tank. It sits across the bed rails at the top, and maybe has an inch at the most in some places. The tanks, inc. tank has a recessed area where the pump sits at the front of the tank (nearest the axle) and the ford tank has the same thing in the same place.

I'll probably go ahead and get the Ford tank regardless because of how it mounts. I have a 68 D200 that originally had a tank behind the seat and I can replace that with the Ford tank if nothing else.

 

All modern cars use nylon lines for fuel. It's totally safe. However, if you want to use hardline (which I prefer) you can easily make your own using NiCopp lines. Easy to work with and relatively inexpensive.

Andrew

 

I prefer hard lines as well, but if I can get the nylon lines off of something for next to nothing, I'll probably go that route. I can always upgrade later when I have some disposable income.

Thanks for the info on the NiCopp lines. I'll look them up!

 

I did the nicopp lines after reading Andrew's build last year. He has a couple of top notch builds. I went with NiCu because it required fewer adapters. I flared my lines to fit AN (37 degree) fittings. The flare tool is ~$100 but works awesome. Andrew has a video that sold me on going that route.

Nylon is a perfectly acceptable line and can be had for very cheap. You can search and read how you can assemble the nylon lines with a caulk gun. Fitting prices can be expensive but you should be able get them at the junk yard and reuse them.

 

Thanks Leon! Cue said video...LOL


Andrew