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Next I needed to figure out what this junk does, as its randomly placed in various holes along the apron.
Mostly power and ground wires that run into a Ford box, so I removed them for now and lifted the harness free of its terrible placement.
Got them ran out where the Factory harness would have been. Isoloted and removed a obvious last minute OBD2 port install, this harness doesn't use **** from the Ford harness. Its pretty much a stand alone harness, plus the starter signal and the key on ignition switch.
Looking better, im going to start welding up the engine bay and smoothing it out.
I was laughing so hard with the blue wire. That is pretty messed up that they took all the time to route that long wire for something so simple. Glad you are getting is straightened out.
Didn't get very far today but progress none the less.
Pulled the Ford wiring harness out from the cabin.
Extra Ford harness I picked up, going to strip this down and remove all the Ford engine controls and no longer used features.
Wonder what these do?
Oh.. ok. Not much!
This was my "Check engine light" I cut out and pulled the mil control back to the PCM for re-wiring.
Now this one made me scratch my head, I was pretty confident the Engine control was removed from the car, the gauge cluster reads ---------- on the odometer and from my understanding, thats when theres no communication on the Control area network.. So i figured they had removed this, nope! now I want to power it up and get my factory gauges working, I was going to install a F-body gauge cluster i had laying around instead of buying the Ford ECM and fixing god knows what to the harness, but as it turns out.. Harness is intact and the ECM is there!
And wrapped my day up by getting the GM harness into the cabin.
I need to make a few decisions for the direction of the car, Most importantly I need to figure out if I want to remove the AC or not. I have not felt the need to use it, car stays pretty cool inside with the windows down. However it would be pretty cool to have all features working on this car for a complete conversion.
I would keep A/C. The car has more value with functioning heat and A/C. It's a selling point to some buyers. It's not a race car so why not keep it? You'll eventually have a tubular K-member for weight savings and can relocate the battery to the rear to help weight distribution.
Feeling a little better today so I went up to the shop and worked on the Ford harness.
Honestly you guys who are doing Mustang swaps, unless you are insane like me I wouldn't strip down this Ford harness.. its incredibly time consuming to unwrap, trace and strip things out.
Ill post up what pinouts need to be tapped for factory gauges when im done tracing, so far I have the VSS, Coolant, Oil and Volt.
Ford harness after stripping a bunch out, still more to go.
"The Gm vss output is 17 pulses per revolution. The Ford is 12 pulses per revolution. This can be easily changed in hptuners if you go to the speedo tab and change the "vss pulses per rev" from 17 to 12. If your tire size and final drive ratio are are accurate, the ecm will will know the speed. That should be it."
Im pretty sure I can share the output and have the VSS feed both the 0411 ECU and the EEC-V Ford PCM, then the Ford PCM will report over the CAN to the gauges for me. Im pretty sure a lot of the Megasquirt guys piggyback sensor outputs. Can anyone confirm? this is my first time running a car with two PCMs
I have a 2000 GT I converter to a 4.8 4L60E. I was going to use the piggy back method, however I could not justifying a real way to keep the stock Ford ECM. So I swapped out the cluster with a 97 Cobra, Changed the connectors to the 97 style. Much easier, and everything works.
04-04-2017, 09:15 PM
