LS3 swap brake problems
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
LS3 swap brake problems Recently had an LS3/4L80E tranny swapped into my 1977 olds cutlass supreme. At the same time I had the brakes upgraded to 4-wheel disks from a newer caddy, with a proportioning valve. Ever since that the brakes work decent but the pedal goes almost all the way to the floor with little resistance before they engage. The shop that did the work says it's a vacuum problem but most mechanics I've talked to say that if it didn't have enough vacuum it would have a rock-hard pedal. SOMEBODY HELP!
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
If they are the caddy rear calipers with parking brakes, you don't have them adjusted enough. Spent two months screwing around bleeding and bleeding and adjusting those things.....
Then found out you have to remove the parking brake lever and use a wrench on it to get them adjusted fully asjusted. Did this and have had great brakes ever since. Using vice grips on the levers won't get it done.
You will have to have a parking brake connected as well to keep them adjusted properly as they wear.
Then found out you have to remove the parking brake lever and use a wrench on it to get them adjusted fully asjusted. Did this and have had great brakes ever since. Using vice grips on the levers won't get it done.
You will have to have a parking brake connected as well to keep them adjusted properly as they wear.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Funny, you have two threads going in two different directions....just to add I tried all of the other things people will tell you to try and lost two months wasting money and time.
I changed MC to larger bore, triple checked the spacer pin behind the MC, bought a power bleeder, bypassed/blocked lines one at a time, verified pedal ratio...yadayada.
If you have little to no pedal and you feel that the lines are properly bled (including unbolting and turning them to get the bleeders up top and smacking with hammer...) then it's the e-brake adjustment on those rear Caddilac calipers.
I changed MC to larger bore, triple checked the spacer pin behind the MC, bought a power bleeder, bypassed/blocked lines one at a time, verified pedal ratio...yadayada.
If you have little to no pedal and you feel that the lines are properly bled (including unbolting and turning them to get the bleeders up top and smacking with hammer...) then it's the e-brake adjustment on those rear Caddilac calipers.
