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Very frustrating day today and yesterday. The moment I have been waiting for arrived and failure stuck: Upon turning over the engine I was met with a no spark, no fuel situation. My first inclination was that my CPS wasn't working so I messed around with it a bit. I tested for voltage which I had, and eventually wound up replacing it only to face the same result. No start. I checked all my grounds, all my power connections. Made sure the fuse box had power while cranking. Still nothing. Moved the sensor farther/closer no change. HPT scanner shows it picking up something from the CPS sensor. All my other sensors are reading correctly, still not starting. I have an extra P01 laying around that has not been unlocked yet. At this point I have 4 credits into my original P01. I swapped ECUS and behold... I had spark and a little bit of fuel. Checked my injectors with a noid light... they were firing. I spent 2 more credits and unlocked the ECU, did a "write entire," changed operating systems and went to the vortec 5.3 flex tune... and again no spark, no fuel. Spent the rest of the day trying to write entire back to both ECUs... I was left with intermittent fuel injector pulsing and no spark. I am baffled. I'm not really sure where to even begin to diagnose. So far I am pretty disappointed with the result. Hopefully something comes to mind or someone has a good idea???
Was that flex fuel tune you flashed have DBW? That is my first thought.
Good question. I am going to check the file and verify it does however I am pretty sure all PO1s were DBW and it's a PO1 operating system so it should be.
I was able to resolve my issue which had me in a panic for the last few days; thanks to everyone on the Sloppy Mechanics Facebook page for stepping me through it. I had a couple of issues. My primary issue, that I was completely unaware of, was that my Crankshaft Position Sensor is directional and was in the wrong direction. Initially I corrected that issue and unfortunately the car still wouldn't fire up. After spending the afternoon checking grounds and unplugging sensors I decided to take a second look at my CPS sensor. The one that I was using was brand new from the auto parts store. I have an LQ4 with 150k miles on it I am also working on that had the CPS from the junkyard still in it. I decided to remove the one from my 6.0 and install it in the Chevelle. Behold! I have RPM on the scanner, Spark and my injectors were firing. Yet I still wasn't getting any firing at all. The new one is obviously not working... $60 right in the trash. I noticed my fuel pressure gauge was reading a consistent 30psi. I decided to remove the line from the fuel rail and when I did a high pressure hiss of air came out.... and nothing else. I found a restriction in my fuel line after the fuel filter. I fixed the restriction and the car fired up. I should actually say the car back fired horribly. But at least I knew I had good spark and fuel. The car is misfiring like a carbureted bbc that is out on timing. I think the issue is my reluctor wheel not being dialed in correctly. I am going to start messing with the wheel and see if I can get it properly phased to the engine. At least I know now at some point its going to run. What a relief!
I was able to resolve my issue which had me in a panic for the last few days; thanks to everyone on the Sloppy Mechanics Facebook page for stepping me through it. I had a couple of issues. My primary issue, that I was completely unaware of, was that my Crankshaft Position Sensor is directional and was in the wrong direction. Initially I corrected that issue and unfortunately the car still wouldn't fire up. After spending the afternoon checking grounds and unplugging sensors I decided to take a second look at my CPS sensor. The one that I was using was brand new from the auto parts store. I have an LQ4 with 150k miles on it I am also working on that had the CPS from the junkyard still in it. I decided to remove the one from my 6.0 and install it in the Chevelle. Behold! I have RPM on the scanner, Spark and my injectors were firing. Yet I still wasn't getting any firing at all. The new one is obviously not working... $60 right in the trash. I noticed my fuel pressure gauge was reading a consistent 30psi. I decided to remove the line from the fuel rail and when I did a high pressure hiss of air came out.... and nothing else. I found a restriction in my fuel line after the fuel filter. I fixed the restriction and the car fired up. I should actually say the car back fired horribly. But at least I knew I had good spark and fuel. The car is misfiring like a carbureted bbc that is out on timing. I think the issue is my reluctor wheel not being dialed in correctly. I am going to start messing with the wheel and see if I can get it properly phased to the engine. At least I know now at some point its going to run. What a relief!
Dan
reluctor wheel
I'm using this
But you did not run after some things were missing
I tried to shoot using the LS1 wheel and it was well lit and fired
I think you are facing a problem in the wheel
reluctor wheel
I'm using this
But you did not run after some things were missing
I tried to shoot using the LS1 wheel and it was well lit and fired
I think you are facing a problem in the wheel
The wheel must be fitted correctly
TDC
IM DEFINITELY FACING AN ISSUE WITH THE WHEEL! I wasn't going to work on it today because of the holiday, but I couldn't help myself. I tried a few different orientations of the wheel that were recommend by different people and unfortunately I can't seem to get it to run. Its still just backfiring.
The way my wheel was setup was as such:
I moved the #1 cylinder to TDC on the Compression stroke. I aligned the TDC hole on the reluctor with the CPS.
This apparently is incorrect....
If anyone has the correct orientation please feel free to share...
You could try referencing how the Goodson reluctor wheel orients the reluctor when doing a swap, and then cross-reference to the keyway on the reluctor wheel that was posted above. Such a cool project. I can't wait until you figure this out!
time it just like a distributor car. mark the balancer at TDC and then at what cranking spark advance should be. make a pointer out of tig rod and throw a timing light on it.
It ran today! For almost 1 minute before I lost fuel pressure. The issue that kept it from running was a flipped coil harness on the drivers side. After removed and reinstalled it, the car fired right up. Then I lost just about all my fuel pressure and it died. Not sure if the pump went bad or the regulator isn't working but I feel so much better knowing the car runs and a fuel system fix is going to be a hell of a lot easier to correct! So that's the next project. Figure out why the fuel system isn't building pressure and the why the little pressure that is building immediately bleeds off.
The one minute run had to be inspiring. Is 42 lbs of fuel pressure enough? My pump is rated at 58 and fuel pressure runs between 50 and 55 when idling. Using a pump from a 96 Silverado with a 454.
Great day today. Finally got it really running. There's still lots to be done. Lots of little things. But I am so relieved that it actually runs. My tune file needs a lot of work. It is very rich and the file is going to need a total revamp since its for a 5.3 Vortec and I am trying to run a 454 off it, but in time I think the car will run great!
Today I learned why I am having fuel pressure issues. I had put 3 gallons of gas in the tank about a week ago. The sump in the tank is not ideal. Its way too small and it wasn't really installed correctly. Its one of the things I outsourced of course. So essentially what happened is, there is a leak at one of the weld points and the drained itself into my porous concrete floor... which is why my garage smelled so heavy of gas. I see fuel in there, it smells like gas, but there wasn't enough at the pump and cavitation was occurring. I filled the tank to the top and below was the result.
The one minute run had to be inspiring. Is 42 lbs of fuel pressure enough? My pump is rated at 58 and fuel pressure runs between 50 and 55 when idling. Using a pump from a 96 Silverado with a 454.
42psi at the rail is more than enough... I am running injectors that are rated at 60lbs at 43 psi and I think 80lbs at 60. I have plenty of room.
Good to hear it running. Start up was just like on mine. Had to nurse it along a little. Odd that running with a tune for a smaller engine would cause a rich condition, but mine was the same. Finally getting it dialed in a little better.
Good to hear it running. Start up was just like on mine. Had to nurse it along a little. Odd that running with a tune for a smaller engine would cause a rich condition, but mine was the same. Finally getting it dialed in a little better.
I updated my engine displacement and then took a Vortec 7400 MAF Curve and blended it into my Vortec 5.3 tune file. I thought that should be in the realm but I was wrong. It doesn't matter. I pulled 5% of the fuel out, raised the IAC, Added 1 degree of initial timing, and made a few other small changes. I will try my new file out today. It "should" actually run. It will probably still be rich but it wont be the struggle it was there. I really need to get it hot and in closed loop. The oxygen sensors will tell me how far out my LTFTs really are.
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