Sweet! Love to see more A-Body with LS motors!

Ask away. That is why I am going to try and post as much as I can to help the next person.

I am currently running the F-Body (Camaro) set up and plan to keep it with the twins.

As listed above... no VVT.

There are many places that offer delete kits for the VVT system.

Let mke know if you have more questions.

Mike

 

So I gotta ask a question as well lol. Maybe I missed it but did you fab those headers yourself? I'm working on a 68 lemans and plan on going boost of some sort. I'm playing around with a budget turbo build on a 5.3 since I really only planned on 4 to 500 horse at the crank ( more is welcomed of course). Anyways my biggest issue with the turbo build is my lack of access to a welder and basically anything I'd need to make the headers and hotside.

 

The LS platform is nothing short of amazing. Cam only and at 3900lbs you're running 12's, that's pretty cool.

Your addiction level is going to kick up a notch with the turbos

 

We had to cut the headers and angle them out so the accessory drive wouldn't contact. Also the turbos were right at the radiator. The angle is about 20 degrees overall. We cut 1 with a band saw and 1 with a grinder. Lots of patience and time spent.

 

See what I just posted about those headers. The reason I went twins right off the back is because I did not want to make a hot side. I am lucky enough to have good friends that will help me with welding and cutting. I did not personally do the header work.

Let me know if you have more questions.

Mike

 

Lookin Good !!!! What turbos and intercooler are you using >??

Where is the intercooler mounting ?

 

Twin 67/65's from VS Racing
3 inch intercooler from VS racing

We are going to be working on the intercooler and cold side tonight!

More pics to come

Mike

 

Drilled out the oil feed tube's. Was told to drill out the restriction orifice for these turbos.

I do not what turbos require this modification but this is what I was told from VS racing. Consult with the turbo supplier on your specific application.

 

Drilled and tapped front cover for turbo drains. -10. 1/2 NPT to -10 90 degree fittings. Had to grind part of the front cover to get the fitting to spin fully. Also Put some RTV on the outside to help it seal. Guess we will see what happens...

 

Used the supplied 3 in piping kit and made a charge pipe. Cut down 2 90's and then welded a straight to make 1 pipe from intercooler to throttle body. Welded the a bung for a threaded IAT sensor. Welded the BOV fitting too.

 

Next we used some piping and and made little extension for wastegate to mount to. We test fitted them vertical before we made the extension.

 

Power-steering bracket mounted and water pump. Cut down factory coil brackets and used IAT re-location brackets and mounted them together then mounted them to the valve covers.

 

On theses turbos we had to stud 1 side of the cast 90's. There was and issue with the bolt clearance. We used 1 of these turbo drain fittings that is a single piece to help with clearance. The normal one supplied is a NPT to -10 fitting that screws into a flat piece that mounts to the turbo. This single unit is shorter and better for tight spaces. Used 2 90 degree mandrel bends to make up some hater pipes while we go to the dyno. Once we get it tuned and running we will get a full exhaust done with electronic cut outs and the exhaust exiting the rear of the vehicle. We put 2 bungs in each hater pipe. 1 per side for O2 sensors, 1 on passenger side for wideband when tuning and 1 on driver side for A/F ratio gauge in vehicle. We will plug the turning port when not in use.

 

Failed at the dyno yesterday. In the mad dash to get it all ready to go I never swapped to a 2 Bar map sensor. Got one and going to see what she does today!

 

10/12/17 Got a call from the shop doing the tuning. During its 3rd pull it made 754 and 709 tq at the tire on 7lbs of boost. Then something went really bad. The engine would not turn over and there was signs of metal in the exhaust. They pushed it outside and later that day it was able to be turned over. We towed it back home and began tear down. We found a lot of metal in the intake and when the heads came off we found #8 rod broke and #7 piston gone. Also #1 had a crack in the piston. It was determined that when I re-built the engine a few years ago I bought new GM ring kits and never checked the gap. When we installed the turbos we never opened the rings up. It was my fault and my fault alone. The tuner is not responsible for my mistake.

 

More pics

 

10/13/2017 Got another LQ4 - we are determined to get to the track this year. Next Saturday is the last weekend.

 

Over the weekend we tore both engine's down and started swapping parts. I had a set of Gen4 rods and pistons. We used the used rings from the used motor, used heads with my springs. The cam was shot so it was swapped for a used LS2 cam. We opened the rings to .030. We re-assembled it and got it to the dyno on 10/20. It made great power and was running really good until the road test. On the road test the engine began to smoke. We limped it home and found we had oil on #7 plug and no compression. We will tear it down this week and see what went wrong. We are thinking a piston ring broke.... they were 200k used rings. I am happy it made the power it did on 8lbs of boost

 

That thing made some nice power. It's too bad you are popping motors. Might be time to get a different tuner.

 

You need a new tuner man, These failures not only take out engines but could potentially take out more like your turbos and such yeah they're not some 2500 PT's but you're the one fronting the bill for him to have a front row seat to blowing up your stuff

Just my opinion though