Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:45 PM
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After 20 years of sitting in one spot I have started making some moves to put my 67 Chevelle Road worthy again. She is pretty sad looking right now.






I have a 5.7 ls1 on the engine stand and have a Holley 302-2 oil pan on hand.






I went ahead and bit the bullit on a new Holley mid mount FEAD since I got zero front end parts with my 5.7 ls1. I believe this is the most complete setup I’ve seen. It’s hard to believe they got all that stuff in this one box.




Sometime in January I will hopefully have the car dug out of it resting place and start removing the existing running gear.
Old 12-31-2017, 11:37 PM
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How bad is the front end? Just bent sheet metal or a (oh no...)bent frame?
Old 01-01-2018, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
How bad is the front end? Just bent sheet metal or a (oh no...)bent frame?
Frame is fine, radiator support wasn’t hurt either. Car just made a trip down a ditch with a few small cedars. Sheet metal damage only.
Old 01-01-2018, 11:06 AM
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That's good. Should be a fun project! I'll be watching!
Old 01-01-2018, 12:34 PM
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WOW, how about some more pictures. I've been wanting to do a 66-67 for the past 40yrs. One day......
Old 01-01-2018, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ToeRacing
WOW, how about some more pictures. I've been wanting to do a 66-67 for the past 40yrs. One day......
I plan to take lots of pictures but you wouldn’t believe how much stuff I’m going to have to move just to get it out of its resting spot. I haven’t seen the passenger side in 20 years.
Old 01-01-2018, 03:12 PM
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66-67 Chevelles are the best ( have no bias here...). I am digging the color, you plan on keeping that color after the body work is sorted?
Old 01-01-2018, 04:09 PM
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Long story on the color but since you brought it up, I’ll elaborate. Car was a factory two tone ,cream on the roof and fawn on the rest of the car. They even used the same moldings as a vinyl roof to separate the two colors at the back. The interior was a factory gold cloth bench setup and I really liked it so I decided to have the whole car painted the 67 factory gold metallic color.

When I picked the car up at the painters I thought it looked great. I loaded it on my trailer for the short ride home and I noticed the trailer tires were a little low. No problem, I had to pass a service station just a few miles down the road. I pull into the service station and park 90 degrees to a later afternoon setting sun. As I’m going around the trailer to air up the tires I have to do a double take at the rear quarter panel. I could see right through the paint!

I turn right around and take the car back and the painter is just as surprised to see me as I was to be there so soon. Without any explanation for the cause he agrees it’s not right and to repaint the whole car. So two weeks go by and I get the call that the car will be ready to be picked up that day. When I show up it’s in the final stage of wet sand and polish. The car is outside the shop in the shade and while it looks good, it doesn’t look right!?? Upon closer inspection I discover the painter has screwed up again and painted the whole car fawn, the original color! At that point I just loaded up my car and left. So to this day I have a fawn car with gold jambs and inner trunk lid! Not sure what color the car will end up being at this point.
Old 01-01-2018, 05:01 PM
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I will say I am glad its no longer two tone, but having the original color (which is at least close to gold) doesn't seem too bad, especially since its a bit of a unique color these days. Paint shops can be a pain, its why I tend to just stick with whatever is on the car when I buy it, no matter how bad

Good luck with the build!
Old 01-02-2018, 09:07 AM
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My current delima. I have no transmission. I don’t know which transmission to look for, 700r4, 4l60e, 4l80e, or possibly a 6 speed auto. I’m guessing it will get narrowed down to a 60e or an 80e and the availability and cost of either one and then there is the fitment issue. I’m not building a monster hp engine so I don’t have to have the latest and greatest transmission but I would like good performance and reliability. Not having a transmission also means I don’t have a flex plate or a torque converter either.

I wish I had a tv show budget where you just order up what you need and it shows up in a few days but that’s not going to happen in my case! I’m hoping to stumble across a good used transmission that I can use to set the car up and get some use out of it before needing a rebuild, maybe too much wishful thInking? Anyone gone this route with any success?
Old 01-02-2018, 11:18 AM
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If you are going to run any kind of serious power I would run at least a 4L80E.
Old 01-02-2018, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
If you are going to run any kind of serious power I would run at least a 4L80E.
Agreed. I went the route of stumbling on used transmissions with my last project. The 4L60 went out almost immediately, so I found a used 4l80 for a couple hundred bucks, put a shift kit in it, and it worked fine for a year, just had no first gear. I finally saved up and bought a built 4l80 which never gave me any issues. If you can find a decent used 4l80 and shift kit, they usually hold up for awhile. Denmah does that all the time and it often seems to be the cheapest option.

The biggest downside to the 4l80 (at least for me) was the shear weight. About 200 lbs with converter and fluid, without a lift its a pain to install and remove. I have no experience with how they fit in A bodies, but I imagine they are not too bad since it fit just fine in my fox body (after some custom crossmember mounts), better than a 6 spd would.
Old 01-02-2018, 01:07 PM
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The bulk of the 4L60-4L70 bellhousing and the case length of the 4L80 both exceed the envelope space provided by the original 64-67 A-body floor/tunnel if you plan on leaving the engine/transmission mating plane in the stock OE position.

Because of that, you'll need to move the mating plane forward from that position if you want to fit either of those transmissions under the stock floor while being able to achieve usable U-joint working angles.

Being that the block of the LS engine is nominally 1-3/16" shorter than the block of a SB Chevy on the back end, you can move the mating plane forward by up to that amount without pushing the front of the LS block or cylinder heads any further forward in the car than SB Chevy heads would be in a stock installation.

The Hooker forward-bias 64-67 A-body engine brackets are designed to do that for the user. The Hooker rear-bias engine brackets are intended for those using GM legacy automatics (i.e. TH350, TH400, Powerglide) transmissions, or those using a 4L60 or 4L80 transmission that are willing to cut/rebuild the tunnel of the car to keep the eng/trans mating plane in the stock SB Chevy location.
Old 01-03-2018, 05:38 AM
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Sounds like forward bias mounts for me then. I’m not totally opposed to cutting the floor but not if I don’t have to. I’ll keep my eye out for a deal on a 4l80.
Old 01-03-2018, 06:01 AM
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Hey Todd, do you remember this car? 5-6 years ago your department was needing an Impala SS with a factory stock exhaust to do some prototype work. I was only about 70 miles away from Bowling Green and wasn’t using the car everyday at that time so I loaned you guys my car for a week or two.






Car has 207k miles on it now and is getting the brakes and suspension upgraded, hope to be driving it again sometime this spring.
Old 01-03-2018, 08:45 AM
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Yes, I do remember your car being here. I believe that was sometime back in the 2011-2012 time period. I'm glad to see you're still driving and enjoying that car.



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