Data Bus Conversion HS CAN >J-1850VPW
If so take a look at the patterns below and see if any of them fit what you would need. What I think your looking for is a WHOLE LOT SIMPLER then what I am currently working on.
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this is really nothing in comparison to translation of all the signals from gen IV and newer PCM/clusters.
Jeep's crank has 3 groups of four pulses so I think none from the list would work.
from service manual:
There are 3 groups of four pulses generated
on 4.0L 6-cylinder engines.The trailing edge of the fourth notch, which causes the pulse, is four degrees before top dead center
(TDC) of the corresponding piston.
I appreciate your help
I think if you will produce user friendly plug and play chrysler/GM box there would be customers for sure
Tach - Working
Speedo - Working
Odometer - Working
Temp Gauge - Working
Gas Gauge - Working
Battery Light - Working
Check Engine Light - Working
Turn Signals - Working
Abs Light - Working
Cruise Light - Working
Tow/Haul Light - Working
Dash Lights - Working
Air bag light -
Brake Light -
Oil Gauge -
Battery Gauge -
Steering Wheel Control -
Hi beam indicator -
And remember.... NO BCM IS BEING USED ! ! ! ! !

Rick
Personally I think this would be a fantastic alternative to the Dakota Digital swap gauges that people are using in Pro-Touring cars. Especially a first gen Camaro that you could pretty easily create a bezel to surround a stock cluster.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I'm not a good salesmen and am a terrible marketer.......But since I'm the only one I'll give it a shot.
Cost or price however you want to look at it is really going to depend on a number of factors. How much time I'm having to put in assembling the circuit boards plays a big part in that. How people are wanting it...bare bones full DIY hard wired install OR plug and play for vehicle specific setups also will play a HUGE factor in what it's going to cost. And how many "units" I was to ship at a time also factors into that.
Best case every one and their brother wants one and I literally can't build them by hand fast enough. Every one wins at that point since it means there would be enough demand to justify the cost of having them assembled in China.
There really is no worst case since I've been designing this as a modular system. I've thrown a quick design example together of how this works. I pulled numbers out of the air, I honestly have no idea what it would cost to build any of these as more then 1 off designs like what I use for prototyping. Again having to hand assemble the boards plays a big factor in what it would cost. If you want to start tacking on OEM connectors and things like that then the price is gonna keep going up. But at the same time if someone was feeling brave I'd be more then happy to ship you a bag full of parts that you build yourself

Using a system like this will not make it the smallest possible size but it does offer the best compromise of size, cost and flexibility. But if there was enough interest to have the boards machine assembled parts could also be switched to SMD stuff making it a fraction of the size of a comparable though hole part. Realistically something like this should be funded with something like Kick-starter or GoFundMe......but the automotive community's I see on most forums lead me to believe that it would have been pointless. But who knows, if I end up getting even 1/2 of the things working I have planned for this......then a campaign may become a possibility to make the stuff readily avaible. I'm working in uncharted territory so there's no telling where it'll go.
I've got 2 '03ish clusters that came with my donor, one of them is the 6 gauge cluster, and the other is a 7 gauge cluster with trans temp. Planning to use that one in my S10.
Jay
This is probably one of the few time's I'd actually spend the money on a "bolt in swap kit" if one actually existed....but of course no one makes a kit because it'll make this a deathtrap on wheels lol
I'll need an LS in this once I'm ready to start prototyping the hardware interface...I just need to decided if this is going to be something to showcase "swap workmanship" or if I'm gonna go full blown Sloppy Mechanics on this and do the entire swap in a single weekend with a torch and a welder. After all this is about making the stock electronics in the vehicle work with the Gm pcm not about just another swap project.
So the real question is now.....L59 or LQ9(I have both but somehow I feel the Lq9 would be a waste on this) And......can I make a truck intake and oil pan work

I'm already 99% sure I'll need to find a set of car manifolds.........I'd say headers but the only way I'd buy headers for an LS is if it had a T4 flange on the end on them
Jay
Jay

I'll be doing this on a hoist with a real torch and mig welder.....if only I was 25 again I'd have done the same night I brought it home












