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This is a picture of the crate ls3 I bought. I know! This is beat to death but just want to get a warm and fuzzy and do this the cheapest way possible, also think this will be fairly clean looking. The oem steam port just above the right water pump outlet. Am I correct in thinking this can be down turned into that right hole because its the hot water returning to the radiator to then be cooled again? The air at that point will rise and find its way to the radiator cap. Thanks! All.
And if that right one is the return and left assuming is cold inlet. Does anyone make a swiveled adapter or anything that would orientate it to the 45* range instead of the 225* it comes with?
Using my stock oem s2000 radiator which has both pretty much on drivers side.
edit: its actually a mishimoto aftermarket “stock” replacement but does have increased capacity with dual fans and shroud.
You T’d it into that expansion tank? It must hold pressure correct? Mine expansion tank does not hold pressure. Its just a plastic screw on but I know it will push and pull liquid to it and back on cool down or at least thats how I read it to work. But I know the steam vents must be under pressure or it would just boil over.
Red circle right?
Last edited by Mrngwoodstewie; Mar 30, 2018 at 03:35 PM.
Correct - my reservoir is pressurized - you can see the 75 kPa cap on it. It's the high point of the system - and man does that make filling it easy. Just pour it in til it's full. Never an air pocket.
I'm not a fan of modifying the water pump since it is a wear / potential failure item that may need to be replaced on a road trip.
My preference is the upper radiator hose or running the line to the cap side of the radiator factory style. The other factory option is the pressurized overflow as Michael Yount posted.
I've done all three ways. Drill and tap the water pump, weld a 1/4" NPT into the radiator and the splice the upper radiator hose.
Taping the water pump works. My LS1 98 TJ has been like that for 10 years with no problems. Down side is as said above the replacement of the water pump. Also IMO bleeding air out the motor is more work since the steam line is running down instead of up to the highest point of the radiator.
The splice in the upper radiator hose works well if you have to splice the hose to get the bends in the hose to match the engine and radiator. Down side is two more places for leaks. Having said that I did this on a E36 LS swap and had no issues.
I think the best is welding a bung into the upper part of the radiator and then running a stainless -3? hose from the steam line to the radiator.
Note there are a number of different steam line configurations in regards to where the outlet of the steam points. IIRC correctly the later model truck LS engines have the steam line pointing straight out.
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Crate ls3 easy steam solution 
