Introduction with accessories question on lq4
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 51
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Introduction with accessories question on lq4 completely new to this world and very excited to fi this 6.0. Here’s what I have:
Purchased complete gasket kit,
new rings gapped to .027
flex hone cylinders
lapped valves
pac 1218 springs
new push rods
new lifters
polished crank
arp head bolts
arp rod cap bolts
reused stock main bolts
new stock head gaskets
new cam chain with trick flow tensioner
Elgin mild cam
i purchased an f body oil pan to help with lower clearances of the lowered 67 c10 this is going in. I currently have a (what I believe to be) stock ls1 intake I’d like to use purely for looks. The number is 12560688. I have the stock fuel rail and injectors to go with it. I was told by the tuner I need to install 80 lb injectors to support the 550 hp I hope to achieve with a mild boost setup. That’s my first question. Can someone tell me what I would use to replace the stock injectors 0280158077?
second question; as I understand it I only need to change the water pump to clear the throttle body with this lower intake as compared to the truck intake? If so, I was thinking of this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Pump-...19.m1438.l2649
if that’s it for now, would be really nice to know I’m on the right track.
Purchased complete gasket kit,
new rings gapped to .027
flex hone cylinders
lapped valves
pac 1218 springs
new push rods
new lifters
polished crank
arp head bolts
arp rod cap bolts
reused stock main bolts
new stock head gaskets
new cam chain with trick flow tensioner
Elgin mild cam
i purchased an f body oil pan to help with lower clearances of the lowered 67 c10 this is going in. I currently have a (what I believe to be) stock ls1 intake I’d like to use purely for looks. The number is 12560688. I have the stock fuel rail and injectors to go with it. I was told by the tuner I need to install 80 lb injectors to support the 550 hp I hope to achieve with a mild boost setup. That’s my first question. Can someone tell me what I would use to replace the stock injectors 0280158077?
second question; as I understand it I only need to change the water pump to clear the throttle body with this lower intake as compared to the truck intake? If so, I was thinking of this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Pump-...19.m1438.l2649
if that’s it for now, would be really nice to know I’m on the right track.
The 4th gen F body water pump uses the middle spacing and an LQ4 uses truck accessory spacing. If you use that pump you will need to buy spacers to space the pump out to align with the rest of your accessories. I believe the 5th gen f body pump is spaced out further to align with your truck spacing but I think you need a different tensioner too.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Maybe i read it incorrectly, but, is the spacing issue mainly the placement of the accessory belt? I purchased a swap booklet and I see mention of that but I thought the pump i put in the link above has an extended pulley allowing for installation in either? Just want to not purchase the wrong thing. It will make total sense, i'm sure, once i receive it and attempt to install with everything else.
You'll need to use a spacer kit with the Fbody LS1 pump you posted. Here is the spacer kit:
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3915-d...k-engines.aspx
Here are some injectors that I think should work for your application:
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3983-f...-set-of-8.aspx
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3915-d...k-engines.aspx
Here are some injectors that I think should work for your application:
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3983-f...-set-of-8.aspx
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
You'll need to use a spacer kit with the Fbody LS1 pump you posted. Here is the spacer kit:
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3915-d...k-engines.aspx
Here are some injectors that I think should work for your application:
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3983-f...-set-of-8.aspx
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3915-d...k-engines.aspx
Here are some injectors that I think should work for your application:
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3983-f...-set-of-8.aspx
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TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 424
Likes: 41
From: Worcester, Mass
Is this budget friendly or not? I used my truck water pump by just putting a small dent in the upper water pipe with a hammer to clear the throttle body and I'm using decapped injectors. No problems whatsoever and I beat this thing regularly. If money wasn't an issue for me I would've gone with the ls3 water pump for looks and maybe the deka 80's for known reliability.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
It’s by no means an expensive build. I just want to have a nice, somewhat powerful (and for most standards 600 whp is a lot of power but for these engines I guess it’s mild?) engine but figured I’d cover some essentials while it’s apart. This is why I decided to just keep the stock internals aside from stonger rod cap bolts and head bolts. I’m also cleaning the crap out of everything and giving it a coat of paint. I tried posting some pics but when I pushed reply it just said it had to be approved by a moderator? I’ve never seen that on a forum before.
If id have known beforehand, I’d have done your trick to clear the throttle body. I guess I should have gotten that far along before I actually purchased another water pump but I already bought the pump and the aforementioned spacer kit. Maybe on the next thing I can save some money.
I quickly watched a video from the “sloppy” guy on decapping injectors quite some time ago. Now that I know that’s the purpose I’ll start reading about decapping again.
If id have known beforehand, I’d have done your trick to clear the throttle body. I guess I should have gotten that far along before I actually purchased another water pump but I already bought the pump and the aforementioned spacer kit. Maybe on the next thing I can save some money.
I quickly watched a video from the “sloppy” guy on decapping injectors quite some time ago. Now that I know that’s the purpose I’ll start reading about decapping again.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
It’s by no means an expensive build. I just want to have a nice, somewhat powerful (and for most standards 600 whp is a lot of power but for these engines I guess it’s mild?) engine but figured I’d cover some essentials while it’s apart. This is why I decided to just keep the stock internals aside from stonger rod cap bolts and head bolts. I’m also cleaning the crap out of everything and giving it a coat of paint. I tried posting some pics but when I pushed reply it just said it had to be approved by a moderator? I’ve never seen that on a forum before.
If id have known beforehand, I’d have done your trick to clear the throttle body. I guess I should have gotten that far along before I actually purchased another water pump but I already bought the pump and the aforementioned spacer kit. Maybe on the next thing I can save some money.
I quickly watched a video from the “sloppy” guy on decapping injectors quite some time ago. Now that I know that’s the purpose I’ll start reading about decapping again.
If id have known beforehand, I’d have done your trick to clear the throttle body. I guess I should have gotten that far along before I actually purchased another water pump but I already bought the pump and the aforementioned spacer kit. Maybe on the next thing I can save some money.
I quickly watched a video from the “sloppy” guy on decapping injectors quite some time ago. Now that I know that’s the purpose I’ll start reading about decapping again.
Instead of the f-body water pump, consider getting a Gen 5 Camaro L99 waterpump (2010-2015 SS with auto transmission). It has a driver's side, forward facing outlet and would not require spacers to line up with the other accessories.
Here is what that waterpump looks like on my engine:
If you keep the truck alternator and power steering bracket, you will need to relocate the idler pulley and trim off that part of the bracket. There are some details on how I did this here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post13933286
With regards to the ARP bolts, I think you did the right thing. The stock head bolts are torque to yield and need to be replaced every time but the ARPs are reusable so if you ever need to pull things apart again you can reuse them.
Here is what that waterpump looks like on my engine:
If you keep the truck alternator and power steering bracket, you will need to relocate the idler pulley and trim off that part of the bracket. There are some details on how I did this here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post13933286
With regards to the ARP bolts, I think you did the right thing. The stock head bolts are torque to yield and need to be replaced every time but the ARPs are reusable so if you ever need to pull things apart again you can reuse them.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
It’s too late. I already purchased that pump in the link and the spacers. I think my next big decision, or otherwise dilemma, will be deciding what to do about the turbo location vs alternator and ac. I supposed I’ll have to purchase the on3 single turbo kit first to see how it all lines up before deciding where to locate the accessories.
As as I understand it, if I were to keep it naturally aspirated, all I’d need to do is relocated the ac compressor as it supposedly interferes with the frame on the passenger side. I went and made it more complicated now by changing the intake manifold and water pump.
I know this an ls forum but just a few details about my truck as it relates to the engine; I’m keeping the 4l80e, Oem pcm, Stock ac compressor, stock ps pump. To the truck I’m lowering it with a static spring kit (4/6”) adding a brake booster and disk brakes, and a vintage air system to go with the stock compressor. I’ll still have to figure out ac condenser and radiator and I’ll have to do an electric fan. I’m purchasing hp tuners pro and I’d fumble through the deletes and na tuning myself.....but...since I’m almost surely going with boost I’ll need a more experienced shop to tune but I’ll keep an eye on misfires/egt/afr wideband myself If I get it tuned remotely.
Its my first Chevy but not my first car. Tuning really intrigues me but I can appreciate the huge learning curve to do it properly. I started playing with cars about 5 years ago. It was the first time I took every nut and bolt out of a car and put them all back. After that I was hooked. I’ve done 4 turbo Audi’s since then and I decided this time I wanted something I considered not only fast but cool as ****. The last Audi I did should have had about 550 to the wheels. I know it’s like comparing apples as oranges but I wanted at least that output from this. From what I’ve read these engines can do that all day long in stock form. At least mine is now at least a bit better than stock.
I’ve always loved the 67-72 c10 and I finally did it (or I should say, am doing it). The look and feel of the perfect 50 year old truck with the power and convenience of a modern power plant, suspension, brakes and ac. What’s not to love?
As as I understand it, if I were to keep it naturally aspirated, all I’d need to do is relocated the ac compressor as it supposedly interferes with the frame on the passenger side. I went and made it more complicated now by changing the intake manifold and water pump.
I know this an ls forum but just a few details about my truck as it relates to the engine; I’m keeping the 4l80e, Oem pcm, Stock ac compressor, stock ps pump. To the truck I’m lowering it with a static spring kit (4/6”) adding a brake booster and disk brakes, and a vintage air system to go with the stock compressor. I’ll still have to figure out ac condenser and radiator and I’ll have to do an electric fan. I’m purchasing hp tuners pro and I’d fumble through the deletes and na tuning myself.....but...since I’m almost surely going with boost I’ll need a more experienced shop to tune but I’ll keep an eye on misfires/egt/afr wideband myself If I get it tuned remotely.
Its my first Chevy but not my first car. Tuning really intrigues me but I can appreciate the huge learning curve to do it properly. I started playing with cars about 5 years ago. It was the first time I took every nut and bolt out of a car and put them all back. After that I was hooked. I’ve done 4 turbo Audi’s since then and I decided this time I wanted something I considered not only fast but cool as ****. The last Audi I did should have had about 550 to the wheels. I know it’s like comparing apples as oranges but I wanted at least that output from this. From what I’ve read these engines can do that all day long in stock form. At least mine is now at least a bit better than stock.
I’ve always loved the 67-72 c10 and I finally did it (or I should say, am doing it). The look and feel of the perfect 50 year old truck with the power and convenience of a modern power plant, suspension, brakes and ac. What’s not to love?
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 424
Likes: 41
From: Worcester, Mass
It’s by no means an expensive build. I just want to have a nice, somewhat powerful (and for most standards 600 whp is a lot of power but for these engines I guess it’s mild?) engine but figured I’d cover some essentials while it’s apart. This is why I decided to just keep the stock internals aside from stonger rod cap bolts and head bolts. I’m also cleaning the crap out of everything and giving it a coat of paint. I tried posting some pics but when I pushed reply it just said it had to be approved by a moderator? I’ve never seen that on a forum before.
If id have known beforehand, I’d have done your trick to clear the throttle body. I guess I should have gotten that far along before I actually purchased another water pump but I already bought the pump and the aforementioned spacer kit. Maybe on the next thing I can save some money.
I quickly watched a video from the “sloppy” guy on decapping injectors quite some time ago. Now that I know that’s the purpose I’ll start reading about decapping again.
If id have known beforehand, I’d have done your trick to clear the throttle body. I guess I should have gotten that far along before I actually purchased another water pump but I already bought the pump and the aforementioned spacer kit. Maybe on the next thing I can save some money.
I quickly watched a video from the “sloppy” guy on decapping injectors quite some time ago. Now that I know that’s the purpose I’ll start reading about decapping again.
Matt from Sloppy is a wealth of knowledge. I'd definitely recommend taking a look at his videos to see what works and what doesn't. The decapped injectors being one cheap item you'll need for example. As far as buying a kit, unless on3 makes a whole kit specifically for your truck I'd personally just make one myself since whatever you buy will need to be customized anyways. Just my opinion.
I love my hptuners best thing I ever did especially versus the cost of professional tuning. I've got mine feeling pretty good at 7psi and I may pay for some dyno time soon just to see how I did and go from there. You're going to have a blast with this thing I can't wait to see its progress.
Andrew
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
I always prefer to customize the setup myself. The turbo system would be no different. On the other hand, I really like buying a "kit" to know for sure I have everything I need and it will all fit. The only reason I was even considering a turbo kit for this truck is because I barely know the engine let alone the specifics of plumbing, turbo selection, wastegate options, injector sizing, turbo sizing, etc. That being said....if I can get enough support here....I'm all in for piecing the system together. I'm sure I'd end up with a much nicer (quality) set up than going with what looks like Chinese parts from on3.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 424
Likes: 41
From: Worcester, Mass
I always prefer to customize the setup myself. The turbo system would be no different. On the other hand, I really like buying a "kit" to know for sure I have everything I need and it will all fit. The only reason I was even considering a turbo kit for this truck is because I barely know the engine let alone the specifics of plumbing, turbo selection, wastegate options, injector sizing, turbo sizing, etc. That being said....if I can get enough support here....I'm all in for piecing the system together. I'm sure I'd end up with a much nicer (quality) set up than going with what looks like Chinese parts from on3.
For the money I went Chinese parts all day long! haha True you would have a total kit and I'm not sure what the cost of it is but if you have patience and some mechanical know how you can easily piece together most of the kit for usually cheaper than they'll sell it to you. I think VS racing has their own kit which is pretty cheap and as far as turbo size there is a ton of info on here. ebay GT45, on3 78/75, s480. I've heard all good things. Some of it will come down to money, some will be performance goals. Me personally since this was my first turbo kit and first time with any ls stuff I went for cheap just in case it didn't work. I bought the ebay gt45 for my lq4. So far it works great and at 7psi the thing seems insane to me. No dyno numbers yet but soon I hope.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
swapstang - it's funny you say that. I have a remote friend that knows these engines well. we converse through messenger and he helps me when he has time. He put it this way:
The 80's era 350 you pulled out had 160 hp on a good day. The LQ4 you are installing will have about 350 rebuilt with the few things you're doing to it. The truck will be night and day with just that swapped in. You will have a fast, fun reliable truck. Anyone can drive it. If, on the other hand, your goal is to scare yourself every time you drive it, and scare the hell out of anyone who rides with you, then turbo is what you want. The engine will handle 10 psi all day long and you'll spin your back tires to 50 if you want.
I told him, yeah! that's what I want! turbo!
I've been going back and forth on the decision to do it or not. I just figured I'd build everything to accept turbo if I decide (before I am completely done) that I can get all the equipment together at a decent price. I'm going to have to spend so much money on the truck itself....if it were just the engine, wouldn't even be a question to turbo or not. I think my next decision will be where and how to mount the alternator and ac compressor. I see many pics of people who just omit the compressor, but that's something I want for sure. I want it to be scary quick but also daily drivable. I hope to get to drive it whenever the roads are dry and especially salt-free. I'm doing a complete frame off restoration. The truck is sitting out back of my shop in major sections. I'll probably see if I can find a decent guy or shop to start on the cab metal asap. I plan to paint it myself since I'll be going for a patina finish anyway. I mean, I can make it look weathered and used myself...right
No need to pay thousands on a paint job when you want the truck to look used anyway.
Would you mind, sometime, sending a pic or two of your accessory placement? I'd be very interested to see how it's all situated.
The 80's era 350 you pulled out had 160 hp on a good day. The LQ4 you are installing will have about 350 rebuilt with the few things you're doing to it. The truck will be night and day with just that swapped in. You will have a fast, fun reliable truck. Anyone can drive it. If, on the other hand, your goal is to scare yourself every time you drive it, and scare the hell out of anyone who rides with you, then turbo is what you want. The engine will handle 10 psi all day long and you'll spin your back tires to 50 if you want.
I told him, yeah! that's what I want! turbo!
I've been going back and forth on the decision to do it or not. I just figured I'd build everything to accept turbo if I decide (before I am completely done) that I can get all the equipment together at a decent price. I'm going to have to spend so much money on the truck itself....if it were just the engine, wouldn't even be a question to turbo or not. I think my next decision will be where and how to mount the alternator and ac compressor. I see many pics of people who just omit the compressor, but that's something I want for sure. I want it to be scary quick but also daily drivable. I hope to get to drive it whenever the roads are dry and especially salt-free. I'm doing a complete frame off restoration. The truck is sitting out back of my shop in major sections. I'll probably see if I can find a decent guy or shop to start on the cab metal asap. I plan to paint it myself since I'll be going for a patina finish anyway. I mean, I can make it look weathered and used myself...right
No need to pay thousands on a paint job when you want the truck to look used anyway. Would you mind, sometime, sending a pic or two of your accessory placement? I'd be very interested to see how it's all situated.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 424
Likes: 41
From: Worcester, Mass
swapstang - it's funny you say that. I have a remote friend that knows these engines well. we converse through messenger and he helps me when he has time. He put it this way:
The 80's era 350 you pulled out had 160 hp on a good day. The LQ4 you are installing will have about 350 rebuilt with the few things you're doing to it. The truck will be night and day with just that swapped in. You will have a fast, fun reliable truck. Anyone can drive it. If, on the other hand, your goal is to scare yourself every time you drive it, and scare the hell out of anyone who rides with you, then turbo is what you want. The engine will handle 10 psi all day long and you'll spin your back tires to 50 if you want.
I told him, yeah! that's what I want! turbo!
I've been going back and forth on the decision to do it or not. I just figured I'd build everything to accept turbo if I decide (before I am completely done) that I can get all the equipment together at a decent price. I'm going to have to spend so much money on the truck itself....if it were just the engine, wouldn't even be a question to turbo or not. I think my next decision will be where and how to mount the alternator and ac compressor. I see many pics of people who just omit the compressor, but that's something I want for sure. I want it to be scary quick but also daily drivable. I hope to get to drive it whenever the roads are dry and especially salt-free. I'm doing a complete frame off restoration. The truck is sitting out back of my shop in major sections. I'll probably see if I can find a decent guy or shop to start on the cab metal asap. I plan to paint it myself since I'll be going for a patina finish anyway. I mean, I can make it look weathered and used myself...right No need to pay thousands on a paint job when you want the truck to look used anyway.
Would you mind, sometime, sending a pic or two of your accessory placement? I'd be very interested to see how it's all situated.
The 80's era 350 you pulled out had 160 hp on a good day. The LQ4 you are installing will have about 350 rebuilt with the few things you're doing to it. The truck will be night and day with just that swapped in. You will have a fast, fun reliable truck. Anyone can drive it. If, on the other hand, your goal is to scare yourself every time you drive it, and scare the hell out of anyone who rides with you, then turbo is what you want. The engine will handle 10 psi all day long and you'll spin your back tires to 50 if you want.
I told him, yeah! that's what I want! turbo!
I've been going back and forth on the decision to do it or not. I just figured I'd build everything to accept turbo if I decide (before I am completely done) that I can get all the equipment together at a decent price. I'm going to have to spend so much money on the truck itself....if it were just the engine, wouldn't even be a question to turbo or not. I think my next decision will be where and how to mount the alternator and ac compressor. I see many pics of people who just omit the compressor, but that's something I want for sure. I want it to be scary quick but also daily drivable. I hope to get to drive it whenever the roads are dry and especially salt-free. I'm doing a complete frame off restoration. The truck is sitting out back of my shop in major sections. I'll probably see if I can find a decent guy or shop to start on the cab metal asap. I plan to paint it myself since I'll be going for a patina finish anyway. I mean, I can make it look weathered and used myself...right
No need to pay thousands on a paint job when you want the truck to look used anyway. Would you mind, sometime, sending a pic or two of your accessory placement? I'd be very interested to see how it's all situated.
My original intentions were to just do a cammed lq4 n/a and do a turbo after. Once I started building it I thought to myself "if this things goes good n/a I'll never put a turbo on it" not to mention the old life gets in the way things that happen. I'm glad I did it when I built the car I'm really happy with the way it turned out. I'll grab a few pics of my accessory drive but I only have an alternator hooked up. I wanted A/C but once it started coming together I realized there just wasn't room without some serious changes from what I had planned. I'm also running electric power steering now which I just got finished up last weekend. Works good so far.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 424
Likes: 41
From: Worcester, Mass
Not a great pic but this is about as basic as an accessory system gets. The alternator bracket is the original truck one cut in half, rolled sideways and the bolt holes elongated. Stock truck alternator and pulleys just moved around a bit. I had to put another smooth idler under the alternator because it was catching the corner of my bolt and tossing the belt. The metal bracket was for my old ps reservoir and I haven't removed it yet.