Carb Conversion, computer delete, problems?
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Teching In
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Carb Conversion, computer delete, problems? I'm looking at Chevy trucks in the 1999-2004 era. I'm not much for electronics and sensors so my plan would be to buy a truck with the intention of switching to a carb if electrical gremlins ever strike.
What else will deleting the computer affect; lights, charging system, trans (I would gladly find a truck with a stick if easier), instrument cluster, etc? Will the truck function fine if I pull the computer and go carburated, or am I asking for trouble?
Thanks in advance.
What else will deleting the computer affect; lights, charging system, trans (I would gladly find a truck with a stick if easier), instrument cluster, etc? Will the truck function fine if I pull the computer and go carburated, or am I asking for trouble?
Thanks in advance.
Switching over to a carb isn't going to be cheap by the time you buy the intake/ignition controller/fuel system changes and misc. Here's the kicker, You'll still need a many of those sensors you wanted to get away from unless you spend a few hundred dollars for a distributor drive.
You'll lose the speedometer and tach for sure but not sure about volts and temp. Lights/horn/turn signals/ brake lights /power accessories are not effected by the missing computer.
You will have to rewire the alternator to make it work but it easy to do.
You'll lose the speedometer and tach for sure but not sure about volts and temp. Lights/horn/turn signals/ brake lights /power accessories are not effected by the missing computer.
You will have to rewire the alternator to make it work but it easy to do.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Switching over to a carb isn't going to be cheap by the time you buy the intake/ignition controller/fuel system changes and misc. Here's the kicker, You'll still need a many of those sensors you wanted to get away from unless you spend a few hundred dollars for a distributor drive.
You'll lose the speedometer and tach for sure but not sure about volts and temp. Lights/horn/turn signals/ brake lights /power accessories are not effected by the missing computer.
You will have to rewire the alternator to make it work but it easy to do.
You'll lose the speedometer and tach for sure but not sure about volts and temp. Lights/horn/turn signals/ brake lights /power accessories are not effected by the missing computer.
You will have to rewire the alternator to make it work but it easy to do.
I haven't looked real deep into prices but I was thinking around $700 for the intake and ignition kit. I've got carbs that can be used. Am I a little off on that?
Cam and Crank sensor is about it but the injection doesn't need much more than that is my point. You'll still want to hook up temp and I assume oil pressure so the only thing you are really eliminating is the o2 sensors and TPS. Any of those sensors can be replaced for a lot less money than the $700 to put a carb on it and you don't have to give up the speedometer and cruise control. Just be sure to get a manual trans version because the trans controllers are around $500.
Don't get me wrong I'm not saying it's not feasible but to me it's just doesn't seem practical. If you have the mechanical ability to swap to a carb then you shouldn't have any trouble replacing a sensor and not make so much more work for yourself just to give up so much.
Don't get me wrong I'm not saying it's not feasible but to me it's just doesn't seem practical. If you have the mechanical ability to swap to a carb then you shouldn't have any trouble replacing a sensor and not make so much more work for yourself just to give up so much.
That it a terrible idea, first off these trucks with all their "electronics" don't really have any issues. I've owned 4 2001-2007 2500hd trucks and they have exactly zero issues that were electronics related. My current work truck has 284,000 and still runs like new. At around 140k the water pump fails at around 180k the wheel bearings will need replaced. At 200k all the power steering hoses will start to sweat and need replaced.
Seriously though switching to carb on one of these trucks is probably one of the dumbest things you could possibly do.
Seriously though switching to carb on one of these trucks is probably one of the dumbest things you could possibly do.
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You posted in the wrong forum. Move this question to the carb forum and you will receive much more helpful answers. Lots and lots of guys running carbs with fully functioning gauges, pretty simple to do really. Carbs on LS motors are common enough that you can even find used parts now. Can easily be done for less than a grand.
As for whether it is worth it or not, read one of the 10 million posts already posted on the subject.
As for whether it is worth it or not, read one of the 10 million posts already posted on the subject.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Lol, wow. Maybe I did pst this in wrong spot. My point of view; my dad has one of these generation trucks. Bought it new and treats it well, been a great truck. One day it shuts off and won't re-start... Takes it to the shop and $500 later it's good as new. One day it start idling rough, takes it to the shop and $### later it's as good as new. It's only given him a few problems but when it does I don't know what to do with it. I know how to fix stuff with a carb'd truck, don't with a computer.
With that said I asked here to get your opinions. Most seem to think it's a sin to carb one of these. Might be, I haven't tried it.
Thanks for your input guys. I might have more questions when I have time.
With that said I asked here to get your opinions. Most seem to think it's a sin to carb one of these. Might be, I haven't tried it.
Thanks for your input guys. I might have more questions when I have time.
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From: Ohio
Lol, wow. Maybe I did pst this in wrong spot. My point of view; my dad has one of these generation trucks. Bought it new and treats it well, been a great truck. One day it shuts off and won't re-start... Takes it to the shop and $500 later it's good as new. One day it start idling rough, takes it to the shop and $### later it's as good as new. It's only given him a few problems but when it does I don't know what to do with it. I know how to fix stuff with a carb'd truck, don't with a computer.
With that said I asked here to get your opinions. Most seem to think it's a sin to carb one of these. Might be, I haven't tried it.
Thanks for your input guys. I might have more questions when I have time.
With that said I asked here to get your opinions. Most seem to think it's a sin to carb one of these. Might be, I haven't tried it.
Thanks for your input guys. I might have more questions when I have time.
Removing fuel injection from a vehicle originally equipped with a fuel injected LS based engine is like buying a 70" LCD TV and then using it as the backdrop for your old film projector. It'll seem fine to you, but leaves everyone else shaking their heads.
If you simply want to buy a truck and carb it so you don't have to deal with it later, then don't buy a newer truck, get one with a carburetor. Reinventing the wheel has never resulted in anything less than a poor excuse for a wheel.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Buy a pre-99 truck and carb that. At least then, its an improvement over the factory stuff.
Removing fuel injection from a vehicle originally equipped with a fuel injected LS based engine is like buying a 70" LCD TV and then using it as the backdrop for your old film projector. It'll seem fine to you, but leaves everyone else shaking their heads.
If you simply want to buy a truck and carb it so you don't have to deal with it later, then don't buy a newer truck, get one with a carburetor. Reinventing the wheel has never resulted in anything less than a poor excuse for a wheel.
Removing fuel injection from a vehicle originally equipped with a fuel injected LS based engine is like buying a 70" LCD TV and then using it as the backdrop for your old film projector. It'll seem fine to you, but leaves everyone else shaking their heads.
If you simply want to buy a truck and carb it so you don't have to deal with it later, then don't buy a newer truck, get one with a carburetor. Reinventing the wheel has never resulted in anything less than a poor excuse for a wheel.
Just to be clear; I have no intentions of doing the conversion "just to do it". I am just researching the ease of doing it if it breaks, or the ease of doing it if I find a great deal on a truck that doesn't run. If I buy a truck and it runs fine for the next 8yrs then great, nothing needs done. But if I find myself in the situation where I have a broken truck and it's going to cost $800 to fix it, could I just do the carb swap myself for the same money and have something I understand and can work on easier. I hope that makes sense...
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-The carb conversion is still going to need cam, crank, coolant temp, MAP sensors.
-You'll have to convert the alternator over to a single-wire.
-You will lose trans control.
-You will lose control of most of your gauges.
-You will lose fuel economy.
-The MSD box still needs laptop tuned if you want best results. Those chips aren't great.
-The cost of just a carb intake is more than the going rate for a used replacement wiring harness and PCM.
-You'll have to remove the EFI fuel pump.
-03+ Trucks will be drive-by-wire, no throttle cable for a carb.
-You'll lose cruise control.
-You'll lose PCM control of A/C and will have to rewire it.
-You will lose vehicle anti-theft security.
-Depending on year, you will lose control of electric fans and have to rewire them.
Its not going to be a "Slap on a carb/intake and MSD box and be done" kind of job. Its basically stepping backwards, off of a cliff.
-You'll have to convert the alternator over to a single-wire.
-You will lose trans control.
-You will lose control of most of your gauges.
-You will lose fuel economy.
-The MSD box still needs laptop tuned if you want best results. Those chips aren't great.
-The cost of just a carb intake is more than the going rate for a used replacement wiring harness and PCM.
-You'll have to remove the EFI fuel pump.
-03+ Trucks will be drive-by-wire, no throttle cable for a carb.
-You'll lose cruise control.
-You'll lose PCM control of A/C and will have to rewire it.
-You will lose vehicle anti-theft security.
-Depending on year, you will lose control of electric fans and have to rewire them.
Its not going to be a "Slap on a carb/intake and MSD box and be done" kind of job. Its basically stepping backwards, off of a cliff.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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-The carb conversion is still going to need cam, crank, coolant temp, MAP sensors.
-You'll have to convert the alternator over to a single-wire.
-You will lose trans control.
-You will lose control of most of your gauges.
-You will lose fuel economy.
-The MSD box still needs laptop tuned if you want best results. Those chips aren't great.
-The cost of just a carb intake is more than the going rate for a used replacement wiring harness and PCM.
-You'll have to remove the EFI fuel pump.
-03+ Trucks will be drive-by-wire, no throttle cable for a carb.
-You'll lose cruise control.
-You'll lose PCM control of A/C and will have to rewire it.
-You will lose vehicle anti-theft security.
-Depending on year, you will lose control of electric fans and have to rewire them.
Its not going to be a "Slap on a carb/intake and MSD box and be done" kind of job. Its basically stepping backwards, off of a cliff.
-You'll have to convert the alternator over to a single-wire.
-You will lose trans control.
-You will lose control of most of your gauges.
-You will lose fuel economy.
-The MSD box still needs laptop tuned if you want best results. Those chips aren't great.
-The cost of just a carb intake is more than the going rate for a used replacement wiring harness and PCM.
-You'll have to remove the EFI fuel pump.
-03+ Trucks will be drive-by-wire, no throttle cable for a carb.
-You'll lose cruise control.
-You'll lose PCM control of A/C and will have to rewire it.
-You will lose vehicle anti-theft security.
-Depending on year, you will lose control of electric fans and have to rewire them.
Its not going to be a "Slap on a carb/intake and MSD box and be done" kind of job. Its basically stepping backwards, off of a cliff.
-The carb conversion is still going to need cam, crank, coolant temp, MAP sensors.
-You'll have to convert the alternator over to a single-wire.
-You will lose trans control.
-You will lose control of most of your gauges.
-You will lose fuel economy.
-The MSD box still needs laptop tuned if you want best results. Those chips aren't great.
-The cost of just a carb intake is more than the going rate for a used replacement wiring harness and PCM.
-You'll have to remove the EFI fuel pump.
-03+ Trucks will be drive-by-wire, no throttle cable for a carb.
-You'll lose cruise control.
-You'll lose PCM control of A/C and will have to rewire it.
-You will lose vehicle anti-theft security.
-Depending on year, you will lose control of electric fans and have to rewire them.
Its not going to be a "Slap on a carb/intake and MSD box and be done" kind of job. Its basically stepping backwards, off of a cliff.
-You'll have to convert the alternator over to a single-wire.
-You will lose trans control.
-You will lose control of most of your gauges.
-You will lose fuel economy.
-The MSD box still needs laptop tuned if you want best results. Those chips aren't great.
-The cost of just a carb intake is more than the going rate for a used replacement wiring harness and PCM.
-You'll have to remove the EFI fuel pump.
-03+ Trucks will be drive-by-wire, no throttle cable for a carb.
-You'll lose cruise control.
-You'll lose PCM control of A/C and will have to rewire it.
-You will lose vehicle anti-theft security.
-Depending on year, you will lose control of electric fans and have to rewire them.
Its not going to be a "Slap on a carb/intake and MSD box and be done" kind of job. Its basically stepping backwards, off of a cliff.
Motor already has the sensors, just need to plug the MSD box into them. It comes with the complete harness. Coolant temp doesn't plug into the MSD box. I took mine off. I have a 3 wire alternator on my carb'd motor, so no need to go 1 wire. Laptop tune is trivial, even a moron could copy one off someone else's post. Fuel economy will be just fine, low end torque will actually improve. Cold weather starting might suck, but any carb guy knows that. You can keep the EFI pump, just need a carb pressure regulator. If you can tune a carb you can rig a throttle cable. Used intake and MSD is much cheaper than new.
Yep, you lose the electronic trans controller and need to buy a $40 fan controller. Manual does not need any electronics. Neither does a turbo 400. Gauges I don't know about, the whole reason I didn't answer the guy, wanted someone who has done it to chime in. But some stuff goes though the BCM and not ECM while I read thing like oil pressure don't go to the computer at all. Worst case keep the computer for that other **** and run the motor off the carb.
Does it make sense? Probably not. But there isn't a person on this site who doesn't own a FI car and knows what it costs to fix one of them. Especially when they get old. But not everyone can tune a carb, not anymore. Hell, most of the guys preaching FI hire "tuners" and pay for harnesses to be reworked. Pussies.
Last edited by Pop N Wood; Apr 10, 2018 at 07:06 PM.
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Posts: 22,291
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From: Central Cal.
OK. The OP is leery of electronics. Thing is, once it's tuned right, he likely will not have to touch it again for a LONG time. NOT so with carburetors. They varnish up and are MORE maintenance-intensive than EFI.
I guess what is being said here is there is nothing to fear about EFI. Millions of cars/trucks have gone 100k+ miles without TOUCHING it.
I guess what is being said here is there is nothing to fear about EFI. Millions of cars/trucks have gone 100k+ miles without TOUCHING it.
Still laughing about joenova's quote btw!
