I've still got a big pile of engine upgrades I need to get on it but one of the things that has kept me from doing them was the tuning aspect and the amount of time it would have required......so I've decided to go a different way and have been working on something big for the last couple of weeks. Unfortunately due to covid-19 my normal circuit board build house has been out of stock on pretty much everything I need to build a "new" module and even just getting blank PCB's from them is taking 2-3 times longer then normal so I'm having to use a handful of separate boards and wire them together for the time being but I've just about got all the decoding sorted out now and have a new program written.......



 

What's your expected time frame? I do have a couple of prototypes, I did have an error in the check engine light circuit that required adding an external resistor and there are no provisions for mounting the pcb into any kind of case..... but they are fully functional.

 

hey Pete so I'm almost done rebuilding the motor ... should have everything in and ready to do the motor and transmission mounts in a week or so . Still waiting on my radiator to get here but already have everything else I'll need for the most part ... after I get it all mounted I'll get the driveshaft made and the the exhaust done

 

PeteS160,

Hey man, I’m still needing one of your modules for my 03 Jeep Liberty. If you are still making them. Let me know as soon as possible, I have a question that I would like to run by you about an engine that I have.

 

Hey there I was doing research on this subject and found this whole forum about the liberty LS swap and how it all came together did you ever get the module or find another way I'd love to do it as long as I can keep it relatively the same inside the car under the hood different story let me know if u still check hopefully or if anyone else got solutions that be Great I got this idea in my head for my liberty as I ligit want to track the jeep bit the 3.7 is just wimpy

 

LocoKJ hasn't been here for over a year, but you never know if he might check in.

 

I don't get over here very often, but if I get email notification on one of my old threads... I do check them and most of the time will reply. Of course I don't always see new replies since my account here is using a pretty old email address.

The best way to get in contact with me is by sending me a message on Facebook, my profile is set to public so anyone that wants to keep up with my work can do so. I do get a LOT of PM's from people asking about Ls Droid and the scan tools I make so I don't always see PM's from people I don't know right away. https:// www. facebook.com/pete.sonntag.3

If anyone who's reading this is looking for a module to make the interior work for any of the Jeep's that used the PCI Bus, Yes, I do make a module for these, however at this time the only PCM's I support are for the 99-02 P01 and the 03-07 P59. It's possible I'll release something for the Holley Terminator later this year but getting a gas gauge to work with the Holley ended up being a lot bigger issue then I would have ever expected and I'm still not happy with how the gas gauge works since I'm using the Holley ECU. With the P01 and P59 its possible to make the gas gauge work directly with the PCM, theP59 works almost as is with a Silverado fuel segment, the P01 requires the ADC for the fuel gauge to be inverted and resecaled but they both do work. The P01 also requires adding a 3 wire oil pressure sending unit and changing a setting in the vehicle platform options table to enable it.

In order for the AC to work with the stock LS computers, the PCM needs to have the driver for the IAC, it doesn't matter if your using DBW or DBC....just so long as the PCM has the driver. The Pcm's without the drivers are incapable of using an AC request over the data bus.

The odometer is also reasonably accurate with the swap module I make, I could give a huge explanation that's very technical but it's just going to be gibberish to most people. In most cases it's with in 3-5% of GPS distance being tracked by a cell phone so its close but not perfect. The way a person drives has a lot to do with how accurate the odometer ends up being.

 

I was doing this right before the weather here got bad last fall and was only able to get it partially tuned but it's a little faster then it was

The blower is off a 2013 Ford GT500 mated to a Holley low ram intake.

When I started tuning it things were set pretty conservative and I don't think it's been much past 5500 RPM yet.....but at 5500 RPM and 70% throttle it's making a little under 0 pounds of boost. With the pulley combination I'm running at full throttle it should be making a little under 15 pounds of boost by 6700. It's currently not intercooled so I was just spraying a lot of meth and the weather was already getting pretty cool last year so it really made any kind of serious tuning pointless. The IAT's would have been pretty unrealistic for "summer" driving. This is still running though manifolds....so if you know anything about blowers then you can imagine what a set of headers and a high lift cam will do for this

I didn't make it to the local drag stip before they had closed last year so all I have to go on are some pulls with Draggy. The 60 foot is 2.3 seconds, now that might sound pretty weak but that's a traction issue and not a power issue lol. Anything over 50% throttle under around 35-40 MPH and it just blows the back tires off it. I've only done a couple of 1/4 mile pulls and had the throttle mechnacilly limited to max out at like 76%..... with a VERY soft take off....as in under 1/2 throttle until around 40mph and it ran 13.1 seconds @113mph. With headers and 3 inch exhaust....possible a new cam(currently running an ASA cam) I'm hopeful I'll get this into the 11's without much trouble once I get things dialed in this year.

 

Love the blower setup!