New member needs help
Hey guys here is the back ground. I am being jerked around a little by different people and need some help or a path down the right road. I am a Ford person and new to the LS life. I have crossed the darkside and put a 5.3L in a F100.
The info on what I have so far. It's a GEN III motor out of a 05 Tahoe with Drive be wire. I would told to get the cable throttle body and another PCM to control it by a person that is selling me a stand alone harness. I know I have the Flex fuel injectors and the 2 pin Alternator.
The harness he sent me was for a 4 pin alternator and the cam sensor was different.
My question boils down to Do I swap back to Drive by wire throttle body and use my stock computer and try to find the correct harness or use the cable throttle by and the matching pcm and try to make this harness work? So far the Alternator and the Cam sensor is the only difference I see right now.
Thanks for the help in advance.
The info on what I have so far. It's a GEN III motor out of a 05 Tahoe with Drive be wire. I would told to get the cable throttle body and another PCM to control it by a person that is selling me a stand alone harness. I know I have the Flex fuel injectors and the 2 pin Alternator.
The harness he sent me was for a 4 pin alternator and the cam sensor was different.
My question boils down to Do I swap back to Drive by wire throttle body and use my stock computer and try to find the correct harness or use the cable throttle by and the matching pcm and try to make this harness work? So far the Alternator and the Cam sensor is the only difference I see right now.
Thanks for the help in advance.
Is this the Cam sensor or knock sensor?
I guess I am trying to figure out if I can make with harness work? What are the differences of the harnesses. I know the Alternator is the wrong pin and maybe the Cam sensor?
I guess I am trying to figure out if I can make with harness work? What are the differences of the harnesses. I know the Alternator is the wrong pin and maybe the Cam sensor?
Last edited by cwindsor2003; Sep 11, 2018 at 08:19 PM. Reason: add image
My 2 cents...
whoever sold you the harness, sold you the “wrong one”. It doesn’t exactly fit the hardware you have. Sure, you could spend extra time and money to make it work, but why do that? You already have a drive by wire TB. You would need to buy a new cable TB which seems cheap on the surface but once you factor in a new TPS sensor and IAC valve the cost adds up. Not to mention the new PCM.
Or or you could modify the harnes to work with your TB, cam and alt, but then what’s the point of a custom standalone harness?? Sounds like a PITA for no good reason to me.
Personally I would try to return that harness then get the right harness from PSI, Speartech or BPAutomotive. Either source can you get the CORRECT custom standalone harness for a fair price. Plug and play, which it sounds like that’s what you’re after. If you don’t mind wiring work, then getting a takeoff oem harness and modify it yourself. It’s more work but could help safe a few bucks if you prefer.
whoever sold you the harness, sold you the “wrong one”. It doesn’t exactly fit the hardware you have. Sure, you could spend extra time and money to make it work, but why do that? You already have a drive by wire TB. You would need to buy a new cable TB which seems cheap on the surface but once you factor in a new TPS sensor and IAC valve the cost adds up. Not to mention the new PCM.
Or or you could modify the harnes to work with your TB, cam and alt, but then what’s the point of a custom standalone harness?? Sounds like a PITA for no good reason to me.
Personally I would try to return that harness then get the right harness from PSI, Speartech or BPAutomotive. Either source can you get the CORRECT custom standalone harness for a fair price. Plug and play, which it sounds like that’s what you’re after. If you don’t mind wiring work, then getting a takeoff oem harness and modify it yourself. It’s more work but could help safe a few bucks if you prefer.
You could just say f it and go the carb way. Thats what I did when I did my conversion and I couldn't be happier. No computer no worries about putting the obd plug in the car. I don't know everybody is different but it is just another option. Good luck brother.
The only downside to the carb is there isn't one made that will properly atomize modern street fuel.
The anti VOC additives prevent the fuel mix from blowing out to a nice clean fuel fog like the "old days"
or you get to run Alchohol free race gas. If you put any engine running E* fuel on a really good gas analyzer
You can watch the raw fuel mix jump all over.. Or use a high speed camera looking down the carb and watch the fuel spray,
Without the injectors to break op the fuel its just not great delivery,
you see it even more on Regular injection vs direct injection, direct is just that much better at atomizing the fuel.
Drive by wire vs drive by cable is another religious topic, fundamentally both work, there are small edges on
each that are mostly perception/feel, there isnt any real ultimate performance difference in the long run,
not worth "converting" IMHO..
But comfort with a system counts.. Drive what makes ya happy..
The anti VOC additives prevent the fuel mix from blowing out to a nice clean fuel fog like the "old days"
or you get to run Alchohol free race gas. If you put any engine running E* fuel on a really good gas analyzer
You can watch the raw fuel mix jump all over.. Or use a high speed camera looking down the carb and watch the fuel spray,
Without the injectors to break op the fuel its just not great delivery,
you see it even more on Regular injection vs direct injection, direct is just that much better at atomizing the fuel.
Drive by wire vs drive by cable is another religious topic, fundamentally both work, there are small edges on
each that are mostly perception/feel, there isnt any real ultimate performance difference in the long run,
not worth "converting" IMHO..
But comfort with a system counts.. Drive what makes ya happy..


