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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 05:14 PM
  #21  
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Thanks! The radiator was re-cored by a recommended shop. Tanks and necks are original. I do have the coolant funnel with adapters. I didn’t want to risk messing with trying to braze keepers on the necks for fear that the radiator shop might void any kind of warranty on their work. Today I switch over from worm gear clamps to T post style hose clamps and doubled up on the radiator side. I still think I need to run a cooler T-stat to try and get closer to a 180’ish op temp. O’Reillys sent me a 160 degree t-stat that was supposed to work but it was to big in diameter (I’m thinking it was meant for a SBC). Anyone have a lead on a 160 t-stat for an ls?
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 05:26 PM
  #22  
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Should be no need whatsoever to run T-bolt style clamps, and in many cases the wrong ones are just pure ***** for small diameter hoses.

You should be bursting hoses before a lack of a bead on a pipe that diameter with regular good quality worm drive clips are even the slightest concern
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 07:07 PM
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Default T-stat

Originally Posted by Monkiejohnson
Thanks! The radiator was re-cored by a recommended shop. Tanks and necks are original. I do have the coolant funnel with adapters. I didn’t want to risk messing with trying to braze keepers on the necks for fear that the radiator shop might void any kind of warranty on their work. Today I switch over from worm gear clamps to T post style hose clamps and doubled up on the radiator side. I still think I need to run a cooler T-stat to try and get closer to a 180’ish op temp. O’Reillys sent me a 160 degree t-stat that was supposed to work but it was to big in diameter (I’m thinking it was meant for a SBC). Anyone have a lead on a 160 t-stat for an ls?
I really don't think you need to worry about an 160 degree thermostat. What I would do is focus on the fan shroud where you could pull better air over the radiator. Yours looks inefficient to me inb that the open spaces are causing you to loose air flow.Take a look at my fan and shroud system, notice how the fan is attached with no open areas around the fan as to provide maximum air pull. If you are determined to get that temp pulled down you might consider a lower temp fan sensor in which the fan comes on before the normal operating temperature. I "think" mine is set at 185 degrees. I also run the t-bolts on my radiator tank necks, just a better clamp.
What is the maximum running time you have on this set up? Highest temp it reached during the test run?

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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 07:11 PM
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Monkie,

Sorry meant to post you a pic of mine
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Old Nov 8, 2018 | 11:53 PM
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On the first couple of warm up cycles the temp never got above 205 before I plugged the fan up (not wired in yet so i just run it of a jump box) then it drops to about 190-195. I really wanted a fan to “fit” the original shroud better but I couldnt find an electric one big enough. Then I thought about making my own and I decided it wouldn’t have looked as good as the original. The radiator is very thirsty holding at least 3+ gallons itself so I figured heat transfer wouldn’t be an issue. Again, it’s not that I’m worried about over heating, I’m worried about to high of pressure for the radiator. Lower temp=lower pressure. I honestly don’t think I had that upper hose on there tight enough the first time. Now with double t-bolt clamps I’m fairly confident it won’t pop again.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 01:02 AM
  #26  
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LS engines are generally not hard to cool, so with as big of a radiator as you have I would think it would be fine. My car with a stock thermostat and the fan temps changed to come on a little sooner will run 195 all day long no matter the outside temperature. If you're really concerned about the pressure, which i feel isn't really going to be an issue, just put on a lower pound radiator cap, it doesn't get much easier than that.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 04:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Monkiejohnson
On the first couple of warm up cycles the temp never got above 205 before I plugged the fan up (not wired in yet so i just run it of a jump box) then it drops to about 190-195.


That tells me the coolant is flowing and radiator working

Obviously the engine goes out hose is going to be hotter than the goes in. The lower hose is cold because the radiator is cooling it.

Run that thing!!
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 09:04 PM
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Default I think your good to go

Originally Posted by Monkiejohnson
On the first couple of warm up cycles the temp never got above 205 before I plugged the fan up (not wired in yet so i just run it of a jump box) then it drops to about 190-195. I really wanted a fan to “fit” the original shroud better but I couldnt find an electric one big enough. Then I thought about making my own and I decided it wouldn’t have looked as good as the original. The radiator is very thirsty holding at least 3+ gallons itself so I figured heat transfer wouldn’t be an issue. Again, it’s not that I’m worried about over heating, I’m worried about to high of pressure for the radiator. Lower temp=lower pressure. I honestly don’t think I had that upper hose on there tight enough the first time. Now with double t-bolt clamps I’m fairly confident it won’t pop again.
Monkie,
Now I understand what your trying to do a bit better. Yes, low temp = lower pressure. With your doubled up T-clamps I really don't see you having anymore problems and as you probably already know the temps your stating are well within specification. Geez, that is one big radiator at 3 gallons, heat transfer with your setup should never be a problem. I suspect they install those big radiators as to allow the engine and pto to run the pump stationary while sitting on the scene pumping for countless hours. Those were the good days for me and I still miss them even though I was in the service for 35 years. Best of luck on your build, it's really a nice ride.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 11:07 PM
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just buy the vacuum filler kit. its 50 bucks and saves hours of hassle and mess.
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Old Dec 30, 2018 | 07:40 PM
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Late to this thread, but that's an incredibly cool swap.
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Old Jan 6, 2019 | 07:24 PM
  #31  
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Old Jan 6, 2019 | 07:26 PM
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Haven’t had a chance to do to much to the ‘45 in the last month or so but I did manage to get a few little things done.
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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 08:26 PM
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Default Under her own power








Wiring is now 100% done. There a still a couple of little things left to take care of but I took her around the block for her maiden voyage the other day.
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Old Mar 23, 2019 | 09:06 PM
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That truck looks GOOD! NICE job!
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Old Mar 26, 2019 | 10:30 AM
  #35  
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Look amazing!

Andrew
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Old Mar 26, 2019 | 10:57 AM
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That's fantastic! What did it take to mate the engine to the original (I assume) transmission? Any videos of it running / driving that you could share?

[This thread really needs a better thread title, "cooling system question" isn't going to give it the attention it deserves!]
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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 08:37 PM
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I had a short video of me driving the ‘45 around today but it wouldn’t let me up load it. Drove it around the area for about 45 minutes with no issues. Running about 180 on the temp gauge which is what I was hoping for. Pulled the truck into the shop and turned the truck off. Before I could even step out of the cab, pop, there goes the upper radiator hose again. By the way it sounded like it just slipped off and not blew off I’m guessing pressure wasn’t a problem. Guess I’ll be trying g to figure out how to get a bead on that upper neck.
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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by AAIIIC
That's fantastic! What did it take to mate the engine to the original (I assume) transmission? Any videos of it running / driving that you could share?

[This thread really needs a better thread title, "cooling system question" isn't going to give it the attention it deserves!]
It has a TH400. Bolts straight up to the 5.3 with just a adapter flexplate and torque converter snout extension.
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Old Mar 27, 2019 | 08:59 PM
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The TH400 is ideal for what it's doing. A largeish truck that does not need an OD gear most times.
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Old Mar 28, 2019 | 10:42 AM
  #40  
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So it looks like I got lucky. Radiator tanks and necks are steel. Shouldn’t be a problem to put a couple tack welds on for a bead.
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