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I'd recommend not using sheet metal screws for grounding. They can loosen up from vibration and cause grounding issues, even when they are used redundantly. A loose screw can cause a BIG voltage drop and lots of resistance.
Use a rivnut / threadsert with a clean, prepared surface under the head. OR weld a grounding stud to the frame. Or do a bolt and nut through the frame with a clean, prepared surface under the connector head.
I also prefer non-insulated connectors and then use of adhesive lined, heavy shrink tubing to keep water out of the wire. Marine-grade, pre-tinned wire like from ancor is good stuff. So is their shrink tubing. And their connector terminals.
Also, that bulkhead connector might be suspect. They aren't known to work super well, especially for decent amperage connections Try an isolated stud, bolted nearby by and then use marine-grade ring terminals with properly shrink tube sealed wiring.
I make these suggestions on what I've read, experienced and observed from wiring in hotrods, high end RVs, OEM vehicles and marine applications. I try to do it once and do it right.
It took me forever to get this done, but I got there eventually. Haven't driven it yet, but I've got it running in the garage and reved it a few times with no sign of voltage drop.
I used this diagram, but I ran both the pump ground to the relay ground and both feed directly to the battery ground. Fuse is 20A.
Here's the waterproof relay I mounted by the tank with 10AWG Power, PCM and Ground running to it. It's mounted on it's side which looks a little funny, but it's functionally good.
I added a real connector for the sending unit instead of the previous hacky soldered connections. I got these accessory studs for the side mount battery from AutoZone. Not a huge fan of how messy this looks, but I'll figure something out later. There's a ground and power ring running from the battery all the way back to the relay.
The aluminum threads on the sidemount battery have been a struggle for me. I stripped the threads on my last one and I'm afraid to tighten these very much, but also afraid that they're not tight enough. Not sure if there's any solution to that problem other than converting to a top mount?
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