When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'd recommend not using sheet metal screws for grounding. They can loosen up from vibration and cause grounding issues, even when they are used redundantly. A loose screw can cause a BIG voltage drop and lots of resistance.
Use a rivnut / threadsert with a clean, prepared surface under the head. OR weld a grounding stud to the frame. Or do a bolt and nut through the frame with a clean, prepared surface under the connector head.
I also prefer non-insulated connectors and then use of adhesive lined, heavy shrink tubing to keep water out of the wire. Marine-grade, pre-tinned wire like from ancor is good stuff. So is their shrink tubing. And their connector terminals.
Also, that bulkhead connector might be suspect. They aren't known to work super well, especially for decent amperage connections Try an isolated stud, bolted nearby by and then use marine-grade ring terminals with properly shrink tube sealed wiring.
I make these suggestions on what I've read, experienced and observed from wiring in hotrods, high end RVs, OEM vehicles and marine applications. I try to do it once and do it right.
It took me forever to get this done, but I got there eventually. Haven't driven it yet, but I've got it running in the garage and reved it a few times with no sign of voltage drop.
I used this diagram, but I ran both the pump ground to the relay ground and both feed directly to the battery ground. Fuse is 20A.
Here's the waterproof relay I mounted by the tank with 10AWG Power, PCM and Ground running to it. It's mounted on it's side which looks a little funny, but it's functionally good.
I added a real connector for the sending unit instead of the previous hacky soldered connections. I got these accessory studs for the side mount battery from AutoZone. Not a huge fan of how messy this looks, but I'll figure something out later. There's a ground and power ring running from the battery all the way back to the relay.
The aluminum threads on the sidemount battery have been a struggle for me. I stripped the threads on my last one and I'm afraid to tighten these very much, but also afraid that they're not tight enough. Not sure if there's any solution to that problem other than converting to a top mount?
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
