Ignition cuts out
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Ignition cuts out LS engine with a Daytona Smart Spark. It starts and runs fine for about 10 minutes then suddenly and instantly stops, It will not restart unless I pull the alternator plug, then it will restart and run fine, but of course there's no battery charge. The alternator is a Remy CS130D type and It's wired per the Painless harness instructions; 12v keyed ignition on the I terminal and 82 ohm resisted 12v on the L terminal. when running the alternator puts out a constant 13.9 -14.2 vdc and checking, the ac voltage is a constant 0.17 - 0.21 so the diodes should be good. I've tried removing all other accessory and fuel pump connections with no help.
Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2016
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ignition The Smart Spark is wired with a Daytona adapter harness connecting to an MSD harness. Pins are straight and the harness checks out OK.
The alternator B terminal is wired from the starter solenoid, piggybacked from the battery +. The alternator l and L terminals are wired from the ignition switch.
The alternator B terminal is wired from the starter solenoid, piggybacked from the battery +. The alternator l and L terminals are wired from the ignition switch.
Everything sounds like it is properly wired. The question is, what changes after 10 minutes of running? Obviously the engine warms up. Have you tried starting it without having the 4 pin connector hooked up to the alternator? It should put out a constant 13.8v without anything connected. If it doesn't die after 10 minutes, like before, you have some place to focus your attention.
Andrew
Andrew
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ignition Thanks Andrew, the engine does start with the 4 pin connector removed, but there is no charge from the alternator. Previously when running and then dies, the engine will start and run with the 4 pin connector removed but as soon as I plug the connector back in, it kills the engine. There's some glitch coming from the alternator I can't figure. While the engine is running the voltage output is steady around 14 volts when it dies. The Daytona Smart Spark is suppose to be good for 19 volts.
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Verdad Gallardo The L terminal gets switched 12v but it needs to go through the gen light circuit or have a resister added to drop the voltage. If you feed 12v to the L terminal, that will burn up the alternator.
Andrew
Andrew
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ignition Understood. I am feeding the L terminal with 82 ohm resisted 12v. What I meant was that when the engine is running the alt L term output is 14v.
Does this mean the alt is bad? Its a reman Remy from China. Guess I shouldn't expect much.
Thanks again, Ken
Does this mean the alt is bad? Its a reman Remy from China. Guess I shouldn't expect much.
Thanks again, Ken
I have never tested this, but I always ASSumed that the L terminal is strictly an input and you should not get any voltage on it when the engine is running. Also, I am not sure where you got the 82 ohm resister value, but the Holley alternator pigtail (pn 197-400) uses a 560ohm resister. And as you said, you may just have a bad alternator.
Andrew
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finally fixed The problem was the crank sensor. When the engine would get hot the sensor would short and make the ignition go haywire. I replaced the sensor with a Delco (even if its made in China, its the original GM spec), added another insulation sleeve, changed the thermostat to a 160° and lowered the fan to 160° which an external temp but keeps the water temp about 180°-185°.
